JK flip flop help

[Roff]

You don't need a debouncer for a 555, although you can use it to make one.

Did you build the circuit I posted?

 

[Space Varmint]

Is he trying to toggle the J-K flip flop? Your supposed to tie the inputs high.

 

[Roff]

Is he trying to toggle the J-K flip flop? Your supposed to tie the inputs high.

You should read the entire thread (yeah, I know, I hate to do that too).

 

[intensenex]

To space varmint

lol u shud definitely read the entire thread. If only it was as easy as u said to make the inputs high i wud still have time to study for my midterm. Spent too much time on this until Roff helped me out.

 

[intensenex]

No, i only built the debouncer circuit lol since i was finding the rest of diagrams pretty hard ,cuz of the ground ,to follow and i didn't have schmitt triggers . But yea i get ur point i already saved ur pic. You telling me that i don't need a debouncer for a 555. I said it wrong i mean to say i debounced my FF clock using 555 output.
About ur link below...
555 Timer Switch Debouncing Circuit
I want u to answer the questions in my reply first to grasp the concept
"Sir Roff now u gotta explain how does this debouncer really work and plz provide some equations to calculate R1 and Capacitance. The de-bouncer circuit u made, is this the only configuration or there r plenty others?"

 

[Mikebits]

To space varmint

lol u shud definitely read the entire thread. If only it was as easy as u said to make the inputs high i wud still have time to study for my midterm. Spent too much time on this until Roff helped me out.

What is a shud and a wud? Seriously, spare us the SMS speak. Also Roff has told you everything you need to know yet you fail to fully grasp what he is saying to you. Perhaps you do not quite understand the term debounce. Have a look here.
http://www.ganssle.com/debouncing.pdf

And yes, I have read the entire thread.

 

[intensenex]

i can not for the life of me figure out the pins for this 7 segment display (anode and cathode).

pic is below:
**broken link removed**

My pin illustration
**broken link removed**

need some help there.

 

[intensenex]

To Mikebits

What is a shud and a wud? Seriously, spare us the SMS speak. Also Roff has told you everything you need to know yet you fail to fully grasp what he is saying to you. Perhaps you do not quite understand the term debounce. Have a look here.
http://www.ganssle.com/debouncing.pdf

And yes, I have read the entire thread.

Sorry If i seemed mean and yea i think i made myself very clear that i don't fully understand de-bounce. I don't intend to make a fuss with ppl who helped me out. I was just telling the other guy that it was more than wat i had to do than just put all inputs high. I do thank Roff for the words he used to explain me de-bouncing but sure hell i doubt a newbie like me can understand right away. I can see that to Roff and mosty likely u i am mis-using "debounsing" but inspite of that i know i am not debouncing my 555. I jus can't say it right. MikeBits, i do choose my words carefully and by all means i meant no disrepect. I shud suggest u that though I might seem slow to grasp the concept, i am defintely not asking the wrong question.

 

[intensenex]

You should read the entire thread (yeah, I know, I hate to do that too).

Hey man, if u r losing ur patience with me. Tell me right away i am simply gonna go to another forum.

 

[Roff]

Hey man, if u r losing ur patience with me. Tell me right away i am simply gonna go to another forum.

Don't get your panties in a twist. I wasn't talking about you. All I meant was, whenever I drop in on the end of a long thread, I don't always have the self-discipline to go back and start reading from the beginning.
The essential principle behind the debouncer that I posted is this:
Charge the cap up to +V through the 1MegΩ and 100Ω resistors while the switch is open (not pressed).
When the switch closes, the cap will discharge to 0 volts almost instantly through the 100Ω resistor and the switch.
When the switch bounce causes it to open a few milliseconds later (or less), the 1Meg prevents the cap from recharging rapidly, so the voltage on the cap stays near 0V until the switch stops bouncing after a few more milliseconds. It then stays at 0V until the switch is released (opens).
The cap then again charges up to +V through the 1Meg resistor, making it ready for the next press.
The Schmitt trigger has positive feedback, so the slow risetime of the cap voltage is squared up, providing the fast edges required by the 4027 clock input. The Schmitt also has hysteresis (provided by the positive feedback), which will clean up any "noise" or severe bounce coming from the switch. Without the hysteresis, any noise on the 4027 clock input which happened to cross the input threshold (≈Vcc/2) more than once could result in the FF beig clocked multiple times, when only one clock transition was actually desired.
I chose conservative values for the resistors. The 100Ω resistor could actually be replaced by a piece of wire (zero ohms), but I like to limit switch current with a low value resistor to protect the switch contacts. The 1Meg resistor could probably have a lower value, allowing the cap voltage to recover faster, so the switch could be cycled faster. Higher values of resistance allow for longer bounce duration, because the cap charges less while the switch is open during the bounce duration.

 

[Roff]

And please use proper spelling instead of that annoying textspeak.

 

[intensenex]

Alright glad we got that cleared up. I got a little mixed up with you having problem with me along Mikebits and i thought u supported Mikebit's comment with ur comment i quoted, which is why i asked in u manner or a gentlemen regarding you having a problem with me. Anyways that's the least of my worries now. By the way, Didn't quite get your panty joke though. OK i will try to use proper spelling but don't expect immediate change since i am still in habit.

I am currently having problem obtaining good signal from my computer sound port. I was momentarily able used to oscilloscope in my school and from what i can figured the signal had a lot of noise. It wasn't a clean signal as i would receive from function generator. I recorded the voltage to be around 2.94 V to 3.20 V . Oh and i am using app called SCOPE that generates square wave at any hertz and amplitude upto 1V. Connecting the signal from my sound port directly to 1k and LED in series gives me problem i first had with my 555 timer that is it goes on and off as if the duty cycle is 10% even though it is at 50% ( i mean LED is OFF at longer time duration than ON ). I am expecting any suggestions to clean the signal, even with the debouncer circuit i didn't find any difference (but i couldn't try oscilloscope) and i somehow burned my LED in that process ( stil confused how)

 

[intensenex]

You might wonder why am i not using USB port. The reason for that is simply that i don't have much knowledge of creating recognized USB devices. I still don't know wat address bits to send and with how much mA and on top of that i don't know wat library to utilize to write codes to detect my device

 

[Roff]

I read post #32, and I still don't know what you are trying to do with your JK flip-flop.
Regarding the panties, Google is your friend.

 

[Space Varmint]

I read post #32, and I still don't know what you are trying to do with your JK flip-flop.
Regarding the panties, Google is your friend.

Yeah, I thought he wanted it to toggle so I told him to tie all the inputs high but the clock. Hmmmm...that makes me think of the other thread. You could mae a neat square wave oscillator with a J-K. Never tried it but could be a ggod way to get a 50% duty cycle.

 

[intensenex]

To both
Space Varmint & Roff,

Oh i am done with my JK i.e i got it to work thanks to ROff. Actually what i am really trying to do is get binary signal in the form of square wave to activate 4 of my flip flops that will produce a binary output through which i can simply use AND gate to address what output(out of 15) i want to turn on. For that reason, i really need to get a good square wave signal from my earphone output. I beg you please hurry up with a solution, i am checking the forum every 10 mins and its driving me crazy !! and lol no i won't google panties since i don't know wat gross thing about it might turn up. Could ask my gf wat it means to have a twist in her panties. How do u even come up with these things! heh.

 

[Space Varmint]

What do you mean you want a square wave from your head phones? I do not understand.

 

[intensenex]

ALRIGHTY FOLKS I JUST SOLVED MY PROBLEM. Sorry if you misunderstood, the fault is mine for not using correct term. I want to get a clean Square wave signal from sound port to activate my FFs. ANYWAY here's how i fixed my problem. I simply used op amp that i have been learning in school. I boost the signal to around 10 Vpp from 1Vpp and used bridge rectifier to convert AC to DC and somehow without even using capacitor my signal comes out clean. I didn't oscilloscope to test it but simply put in my 4017 and 4029 and get nice output with desired frequency.
Right About now i only need an explanation of how did my signal get clean using op amp and bridge rectifier?

 

[Roff]

You need to post a schematic of how you connected the bridge rectifier to the op amp.