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Is there a specific solder to use for audio work?

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JasonB

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Hi all,
I'm just starting a foray into a beginner pre-amp project, but I'd like to know if there are specific solders to stay away from. Will the type of solder affect the overall sound output? Is there anything else I should be thinking about when choosing solder?

Thanks,
Jason
 
soldering advice

Jason, as P.T. Barnum once said, there's one born every minute. Asking questions like that just leads to trouble. You're far more likely to suffer from lead poisoning than sound quality when it comes to solder. The standard mix is 60/40 lead/tin (with a tiny bit of antimony), higher amounts of tin in the ratio lower the melting point. Silver solder has it's place, but don't be conned. Dissimilar metals have a nasty habit of corroding over time...

- CAL

by the way, don't refrain from asking questions like this, just be aware they are manna for con artists.
 
Of course, what was not mentioned is the flux type used for electric/electronics work...

Use only a rosin-core solder for any of your work in this field. Solid solder will require the use of an additional flux, which is jut too inconvenient for general purpose work. Whatever you use, make sure that it does not involve the use of an acid flux!

The finer the working area, the finer the solder should be. Oh -- and the same holds true for the solder iron tip and wattage. Large area = large tip and higher wattage; small area = smaller tip and lower wattage.

Be advised however that it is possible to cut back to far... For example, if you are using a tip and wattage that are extremely small, you may end up applying the iron to the joint for a longer period of time than might be desirable, whereas a somewhat higher wattage applied via the same tip size would heat the joint more rapidly, resulting in the heat being applied for a shorter period of time.
 
Excellent point, Chris. I forgot to mention the most basic thing when it comes to solder. Don't use plumbing (Acid-core) solder for electrical wiring. Though the phrase "acid-core" should provide a hint...

Most of my early experimentation with electronics and semiconductors in the '70s was done with one of those huge 150 Watt soldering "Guns" from Sears Roebuck. Countless delicate connections were made with a quick touch and lots of hot air :wink: Most of them were successful.

Soldering expertise has more to do with acquiring a feel for the right amount of heat and solder flow than the exact wattage of the iron. As Chris points out, stick with rosin-core solder. Make lots of connections, you'll quickly figure out when you're doing it right. Oh, and make sure the connections are CLEAN! Fine grit sandpaper or the teeth of your long-nose pliers will do.
 
sarcasm

My inital response was a bit sarcastic, Jason. I apologise. ChrisP's and Mosfets responses are the kind that belong in this forum.

- CAL
 
Re: sarcasm

laroche73 said:
My inital response was a bit sarcastic, Jason. I apologise. ChrisP's and Mosfets responses are the kind that belong in this forum.

- CAL
Probably true, but your point is still a good one. If stuff like THIS showed up in your snail-mailbox, it would probably be a federal offense. With the Internet, we have to take the bad (crap like this) with the good (relative freedom from government controls).
 
Speaking of federal offense,
didn't they plan to take away our lead solder?
[I have several pounds I'm hiding in the closet.]
 
Mosfet said:
Speaking of federal offense,
didn't they plan to take away our lead solder?
[I have several pounds I'm hiding in the closet.]
You're in deep doo-doo, dude. Your only salvation is to take it to the hazardous materials disposal site in your hometown and plead for mercy.
 
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