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I don't know if you can tell but if you zoom in a little bit the flat side of the LEDs are shown. You think every connection is right?I think you've got there now!
I had spotted that. Now looks ok.if you zoom in a little bit the flat side of the LEDs are shown
Should do nicely.a 10 uf tantalum in parallel with a 0.1 uf Ceramic
I repeat: Your stripboard layout still does not show the polarity of the LEDs and electrolytic capacitors. If the software won't do it then you can do it in a Paint program.
Is that stuff all mandatory?Take the and an green wires from the POT and battery and move them to the left edge. Just the wires, so the wires are effectively the same length and originate from the edge of the PCB. Moving the 9V battery clip to the right edge or along the top is OK too. Just try to keep the wires leaving the board the same length especially the one to the 9V battery clip.
Especially when it comes to the battery connector, having two differnt sized wires, will inevitibaly make the short one see more stress, When both arr about equal, the stress from flexing will be distributed better to both wires.
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/attachments/led-schematic-png.86941/
You also didn't include a power switch. One possibility is to make the power switch wires goto points on the board because it keeps the wire lengths the same for stress, or make the switch and battery connection externally, which now your back to different length wires.
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I'd also consider placing a bypass cap or caps near the IC from pin 4 and 6. Suggestions are a 10 uf tantalum in parallel with a 0.1 uf Ceramic UNLESS the manufacturer's datasheet suggests something else. Not sure if alec has any better suggestions.
Finally! Thank you for everything you've done to help me!If I click on the thumbnail then it does not allow magnifying. But if I click on the file name then it can be magnified. I didn't know that.
The circuit should work now.
Well that information isn't exactly helpful haha. If you could recommend a brand or a link of something that's good that would help a lot more.A long time ago I started making circuits on stripboard called Veroboard from England. I used the high quality fiberglass based one that is stable, not the cheapo paper-phenolic one that warps and stinks.
When Vero company disappeared I bought Chinese stripboard, India stripboard and Arab stripboard from local stores and made many projects with them.
The worst Stripboard is from Radio Shack because the copper is extremely thin and falls off because it is glued on with chewing gum, also the holes are much too large.
I avoid buying unknown junk from E-Bay or Amazon.
Will this one do? I don't need the highest quality either, it's my first project.I was surprised I didn't get any great hits for stripboard. I did find it here: https://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=stripboard
The specs indicate all good things except no plating. FR4, strip, 1 oz copper. It does have a "protective layer"/
I'll keep that in mind for next project, I ended up getting all the parts from Jameco.If you haven't gotten the parts yet, Mouiser is a good choice for all of them. Mouser and Digikey are two major suppliers.