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How does my schematic to stripboard layout look? First time

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I think you've got there now!
 
Take the and an green wires from the POT and battery and move them to the left edge. Just the wires, so the wires are effectively the same length and originate from the edge of the PCB. Moving the 9V battery clip to the right edge or along the top is OK too. Just try to keep the wires leaving the board the same length especially the one to the 9V battery clip.

Especially when it comes to the battery connector, having two differnt sized wires, will inevitibaly make the short one see more stress, When both arr about equal, the stress from flexing will be distributed better to both wires.

https://www.electro-tech-online.com/attachments/led-schematic-png.86941/

You also didn't include a power switch. One possibility is to make the power switch wires goto points on the board because it keeps the wire lengths the same for stress, or make the switch and battery connection externally, which now your back to different length wires.
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I'd also consider placing a bypass cap or caps near the IC from pin 4 and 6. Suggestions are a 10 uf tantalum in parallel with a 0.1 uf Ceramic UNLESS the manufacturer's datasheet suggests something else. Not sure if alec has any better suggestions.
 
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if you zoom in a little bit the flat side of the LEDs are shown
I had spotted that. Now looks ok.
a 10 uf tantalum in parallel with a 0.1 uf Ceramic
Should do nicely.
 
I repeat: Your stripboard layout still does not show the polarity of the LEDs and electrolytic capacitors. If the software won't do it then you can do it in a Paint program.
 
I repeat: Your stripboard layout still does not show the polarity of the LEDs and electrolytic capacitors. If the software won't do it then you can do it in a Paint program.

The LED layout is fine.

AG: Either look more closely (magnified) or think about getting new glasses. There is a flat side to the LED's. The last time I checked, that is an indication of polarity. The LEDs polarity alternate per resistor.
 
Take the and an green wires from the POT and battery and move them to the left edge. Just the wires, so the wires are effectively the same length and originate from the edge of the PCB. Moving the 9V battery clip to the right edge or along the top is OK too. Just try to keep the wires leaving the board the same length especially the one to the 9V battery clip.

Especially when it comes to the battery connector, having two differnt sized wires, will inevitibaly make the short one see more stress, When both arr about equal, the stress from flexing will be distributed better to both wires.

https://www.electro-tech-online.com/attachments/led-schematic-png.86941/

You also didn't include a power switch. One possibility is to make the power switch wires goto points on the board because it keeps the wire lengths the same for stress, or make the switch and battery connection externally, which now your back to different length wires.
--

I'd also consider placing a bypass cap or caps near the IC from pin 4 and 6. Suggestions are a 10 uf tantalum in parallel with a 0.1 uf Ceramic UNLESS the manufacturer's datasheet suggests something else. Not sure if alec has any better suggestions.
Is that stuff all mandatory?
How everything is now, is this a well working circuit that will work?
 
If I click on the thumbnail then it does not allow magnifying. But if I click on the file name then it can be magnified. I didn't know that.

The circuit should work now.
 
Is the horse dead yet. We really beat this horse didn't we?

[quote-the OP]
Is that stuff all mandatory?
How everything is now, is this a well working circuit that will work?[/quote]

This is your FIRST project, so we beat it to death, You also got more than one of us to agree, so we must know something,

It's stuff you learn form experience. I'm sure you want a power switch. Lots of incidentals are not included like standoffs, case, screws etc.

The copper strip board I personally don't like. I like the HASL(Hot air solder leveled) or plated boards, but it doesn't mean I can always find it. Those boards have a coating on them and some solder nicely and others without the coating don't. Cleaning with a Scotchbrite pad is usually advised. I have found that a mixture of Vinegar and salt will remove the copper oxidation.

Bypass caps are essentially invisible components and are sometimes not shown. There selection and use is an art. Sometimes they are required. Sometimes, you use two or three types in parallel. In a nutshell, they smooth out voltage variations from transients. Uncontrolled transients can cause oscillations. It's important that these capacitors be located close to the IC. Without the bypass caps, an IC MAY overheat because of unwanted oscillations. Other things that are "just known" is that all unconnected CMOS inputs MUST be connected to Vcc and Ground. AG mentioned that hanging PC traces act as antennas and can transmit as well as receive, OP amps CAN pick up a close by radio station, rectify that input because of the protection diodes and i shows up as a large offset or non-working circuit. I've measured the resistance of sheet of paper. anybody else might say, it's infinite. I would say the resistance depends on the moisture content.

You do have an essentially pulse circuit and you were also taught technique and some of us (AG) learned a few things,
AG: Control+ and control- will probably magnify/reduce the current page.
 
A long time ago I started making circuits on stripboard called Veroboard from England. I used the high quality fiberglass based one that is stable, not the cheapo paper-phenolic one that warps and stinks.
When Vero company disappeared I bought Chinese stripboard, India stripboard and Arab stripboard from local stores and made many projects with them.
The worst Stripboard is from Radio Shack because the copper is extremely thin and falls off because it is glued on with chewing gum, also the holes are much too large.
I avoid buying unknown junk from E-Bay or Amazon.
 
A long time ago I started making circuits on stripboard called Veroboard from England. I used the high quality fiberglass based one that is stable, not the cheapo paper-phenolic one that warps and stinks.
When Vero company disappeared I bought Chinese stripboard, India stripboard and Arab stripboard from local stores and made many projects with them.
The worst Stripboard is from Radio Shack because the copper is extremely thin and falls off because it is glued on with chewing gum, also the holes are much too large.
I avoid buying unknown junk from E-Bay or Amazon.
Well that information isn't exactly helpful haha. If you could recommend a brand or a link of something that's good that would help a lot more.
 
The JPM stripboard looks like it has a cheap paper-phenolic base but it will be fine.
 
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