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How Can I install 60W/55W Halogen Bulb In My Bike?

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I suggest that you measure the current that the alternator produces at the various speeds.

I check the power today, its was not satisfactory :(
The test has been taken without regulator with a load of 60W Bulb connected with headlight wire.
and at the speed of
20Km/h - 4a & 6.5v,
30km/h - 4a 7v,
40km/h - 4a & 8v which is 32W :(
I haven't expected this. This is too low even without a regulator.
Then how would my original 35w bulb glows? I've to check the amp drawn by that.

I've overloaded my coil today, it would burn up. This is such a weak magnet :mad:
I think i can try a 45W bulb.
 
You are not increasing your power rather you are letting the voltage go up to 24 volts while dropping the amp load at the same time.

Basically its just changing the output impedance of the alternator to match a bulb that has half the resistance of the other one. It may not double the output wattage but it could help gain a few more!
 
You are not increasing your power rather you are letting the voltage go up to 24 volts while dropping the amp load at the same time.

Basically its just changing the output impedance of the alternator to match a bulb that has half the resistance of the other one. It may not double the output wattage but it could help gain a few more!
Dear Sir, the bulb which i want to use (replace) is 60W and my original bulb is 35W right?
My alternator is giving 3A 12VAC to 35W connected with regulator, and a 60W bulb need 5A 12V and my alternator is not able to generate that much output.
If I double the volts to 24V and 3Amp will get half, which means 1.5A x 24V = 36W. How can I see the improvement?
and today I took a test with 60W bulb without regulator no extra load and at the speed of 40km/h the bulb was drawing 4 amp & 8v which is 32W
Then how a transformer could help me :( i couldn't understand!
All I need is more Ampere and I couldn't find any way :mad:
 
Dear Sir, the bulb which i want to use (replace) is 60W and my original bulb is 35W right?
My alternator is giving 3A 12VAC to 35W connected with regulator, and a 60W bulb need 5A 12V and my alternator is not able to generate that much output.
If I double the volts to 24V and 3Amp will get half, which means 1.5A x 24V = 36W. How can I see the improvement?
and today I took a test with 60W bulb without regulator no extra load and at the speed of 40km/h the bulb was drawing 4 amp & 8v which is 32W
Then how a transformer could help me :( i couldn't understand!
All I need is more Ampere and I couldn't find any way :mad:

I imagine he was assuming your existing lights were 6V (as most of this battery-less system were).

Like I said earlier - BIGGER BATTERY - and rewind both windings on the alternator accordingly, plus a suitable battery regulator.
 
I imagine he was assuming your existing lights were 6V (as most of this battery-less system were).

Like I said earlier - BIGGER BATTERY - and rewind both windings on the alternator accordingly, plus a suitable battery regulator.
I know rewinding is the only way to solve the problem.......but i don't know the original gauge of wire is used, as i know thinner wire will give more volts and less current and thicker wire more current. Also less rotation give more current more rotation give more volts but lesser current. I've read in most forum that 19G wire is being used, one guy use 20G with maximum rotation and got no improvement at all. Most people say more rotation = more current.
Also I think my alternator magnet is not powerful enough to produce more power. Also after rewinding the force between North & South pole increases which consumes more fuel (but don't know to how much extent).
So there are so many things that make me confuse to go for rewinding or not!
I'll only think further if I know all pros and cons!
 
The faster the engine spins the more voltage and more current are produced - current doesn't drop with speed.

You're getting confused because you're using a bulb as the load, and these have a positive temperature coefficient (so the lower the voltage, the more current they take).
 
The faster the engine spins the more voltage and more current are produced - current doesn't drop with speed.

You're getting confused because you're using a bulb as the load, and these have a positive temperature coefficient (so the lower the voltage, the more current they take).

I got an idea if can use 24v 60w bulb?
look, if my alternator can produce upto 5 amps, than 1 amp is enough for battery charging another 4 or may be 3.5 can be use to lighten the bulb :)

There are 3 poles, and i think only one pole is currently using to lighten the bulb. If not, two poles using for lighten than i surely have 1 extra pole to use its full wave :) but that separate pole is used to power up the secondary coil i.e., ignition coil. Therefore, my bike starts even without battery :)

I can now successfully fulfilling the amperes problem and for volts, i can get 20v @ 40km/h from battery line (i mean from a separate wire from stator i.e, used to charge the battery)
and even can get more if i use the full wave, also i can save 5w more from my tail light switching it off!! :)

what you say?
 
Dear Sir, the bulb which i want to use (replace) is 60W and my original bulb is 35W right?
My alternator is giving 3A 12VAC to 35W connected with regulator, and a 60W bulb need 5A 12V and my alternator is not able to generate that much output.
If I double the volts to 24V and 3Amp will get half, which means 1.5A x 24V = 36W. How can I see the improvement?
and today I took a test with 60W bulb without regulator no extra load and at the speed of 40km/h the bulb was drawing 4 amp & 8v which is 32W
Then how a transformer could help me i couldn't understand!
All I need is more Ampere and I couldn't find any way

How many amps can your alternator produce at 24 volts?
If it can get to 2.5 or more then useing a transformer to step that 24 volt 2.5 amp output down to 12 volts at 5 amps will work.
What I am trying to explain is that in many cases PM alternator outputs are not exactly linear above their rated voltage and current ratio. It may have a 4 amp limit but if its putting out 4 amps at 6 volts (24 watts) and 12 volts (48 watts) and it has a peak no load voltage of 35 volts then it may be possible to cheat the system a bit by drawing only 2.5 amps at around 24 volts or 3 amps at 20 volts (60 watts) to get more wattage out.

Or as mentioned earlier use all three phases and see if you can get the needed wattage.

As far as fuel consumption concerns how many HP is your engine? 1 HP is 746 watts so unless you have a 1/2 hp or less engine I dont think the extra 30 or so watts you are trying to get is ever going to matter.
 
How many amps can your alternator produce at 24 volts?
If it can get to 2.5 or more then useing a transformer to step that 24 volt 2.5 amp output down to 12 volts at 5 amps will work.
What I am trying to explain is that in many cases PM alternator outputs are not exactly linear above their rated voltage and current ratio. It may have a 4 amp limit but if its putting out 4 amps at 6 volts (24 watts) and 12 volts (48 watts) and it has a peak no load voltage of 35 volts then it may be possible to cheat the system a bit by drawing only 2.5 amps at around 24 volts or 3 amps at 20 volts (60 watts) to get more wattage out.

Yes I understand. My original bulb is 12v 35v then it is pumping 3 amps for sure.
It pumps 20v at 40km/hr without any load but during test with load of 60w this dropped to 8 volts :( thats what make me mad :mad: ....It means that my coil is being overloaded that time? Therefore its pumping 4 amps to the bulb by dropping the voltage itself.
and when i disconnected the bulb it jump of again to 20v.
Have I overloaded the coil? or everything is fine?

Or as mentioned earlier use all three phases and see if you can get the needed wattage.
Yeah i need to look over that. Some people have done that on other forum.

As far as fuel consumption concerns how many HP is your engine? 1 HP is 746 watts so unless you have a 1/2 hp or less engine I dont think the extra 30 or so watts you are trying to get is ever going to matter.
:) I have 7.40 HP (5,37 kW) engine
 
I should have googled before posting....:(
H4 type bulbs fits in my bike and I've checked that 60W/55W at 24V is not available, rather 75W/70W is there and that is high @ 3.1amp
If 60W/55W 12V wont work than 45W/40W 12V will be the another solution.

or 3 amps at 20 volts (60 watts) to get more wattage out
Thats what I've been thinking since i started the thread, but all hope vanished after the (8v 4amp) test.
 
Thats what I've been thinking since i started the thread, but all hope vanished after the (8v 4amp) test.

Thats what I have been going on about (for how many posts now?) relating to using the transformer to trade peak voltage for more amps.
 
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Thats what I have been going on about (for how many posts now?) relating to using the transformer to trade peak voltage for more amps.

I've to buy step-down transformer where input will be 24v 2.5a and output 12v 5a right?
But a 3 amp transformer will be too big to install & to maintain a 24v in, i'd ve to drive more than a 40 km/hr
and it will glow like a candle in lower speed hence, difficult to drive.
Sorry If i'm pissing u off.
 
don't worry your not pissing me off. Believe me others here have tried far harder! :p

Actually for the transformer being its working a center tapped voltage bucking mode you can get 5 amps out of a 2.5 amp rated transformer being its only stepping down half the current and half the voltage at the same time on what is essentially one winding supplying 2.5 amps from each end to get 5 amps in the middle.

Read up on autotransformer's to understand the hows and whys that a transformer can do that in this configuration.

What I am guessing at is being your alternator has a natural impedance that limits it power output to a specific amount of amps into a fixed resistance that by using a transformer you may be able to cheat the natural impedance curve essentially changing the load resistance/voltage curve to allow more peak wattage.

Its just a guess but given my experiences with a regular alternators there are ways to cheat more wattage out of them by changing the load impedance to favor different volts to amps ratio.

its yes its at best an educated guess as to a 2:1 ratio being able to gain you wattage to work properly.
 
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Actually for the transformer being its working a center tapped voltage bucking mode you can get 5 amps out of a 2.5 amp rated transformer being its only stepping down half the current and half the voltage at the same time on what is essentially one winding supplying 2.5 amps from each end to get 5 amps in the middle.

Hmm...I got u. I need a buy autotransformer or a simply powered center tapped (12-0-12)(3 amp) to use as a autotransformer.

Here is my current **broken link removed**

I read on other forums, the guys who are talking about using the full wave....its nothing!
what they have is......they removed the ground (green wire) from the bottom of the lightning coil and pulled that yellow wire from the center and connect to that end & they use that both wire to give power to Ape RR unit to convert the bike to full DC. Waste of time and money.

So what I've done today
I use that full wave via white wire and body ground and connected the hand made bridge rectifier with 6A4 diode + 4700uf 35v capacitor
and the marked more than 45 VDC in just a half throttle (I don't have tachometer so cant tell the rpm, i also looking forward to create the digital of it but will discuss that later, my current aim is to have 60w bulb).

So coming back to the point....when I connect the bulb, I marked the readings of 5 amps and 12 volts :) the volts dropped from 45 to 12 volts but this figure bring me the smile :) my hope has not gone, I still have it.

I was not driving this time, on the stand position, without any load.

That white wire is used to charge the battery & this battery requires only 260mA (as per its manual).
So i'll still have at least 4.5 amp for bulb. All i need now is regulator. Can't say about rectifier.
I created using this **broken link removed**
and its working, not yet tested with 60W load, but I think it will need some modifications. Just a Zener.

What you say? Do I still need the transformer? or this can be done without it?

Edit: I missed something....I've to test again, if I use the yellow wire to charge the battery with same rectifier....would there be there enough power available for the bulb...doubt :confused:
 
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I read on other forums, the guys who are talking about using the full wave....its nothing!
what they have is......they removed the ground (green wire) from the bottom of the lightning coil and pulled that yellow wire from the center and connect to that end & they use that both wire to give power to Ape RR unit to convert the bike to full DC. Waste of time and money.

It is if you're just feeding the headlight with it - but not if you're using it to charge a decent size battery, and feeding the headlight from the battery (which is what improves your lighting - more than a bigger bulb, because it's constant).
 
It is if you're just feeding the headlight with it - but not if you're using it to charge a decent size battery, and feeding the headlight from the battery (which is what improves your lighting - more than a bigger bulb, because it's constant).

I know those who done this, for the propose of installing HID & for that they installed the 7.5 amp battery cutting the original fitting using clips & belts because of not having the enough room.

Personally, I don't prefer to the HID, even if i have enough money....Click here
 
I know those who done this, for the propose of installing HID & for that they installed the 7.5 amp battery cutting the original fitting using clips & belts because of not having the enough room.

Personally, I don't prefer to the HID, even if i have enough money....Click here

So you want better lights, but not HID? - I presume there's no legal problems with HID in India (in the UK HID conversions are illegal).

HID would cure all your problems, lot's more light for much less power consumption.
 
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