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HELP with Toshiba 5DK600 DVD player -aaaaaaargh

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Chapter13

New Member
After a power shortage my dvd player will not work- nothing. So, i noticed the fuse (F801 125v T 1.6 amp) was blown, so i went to radioshack and while they did not have the exact same part number, i was given a 250 volt 1.6 amp GMA type fuse-

well- i installed it- pluged in the power chord and that fuse lit up bright green and burned out.
So, do i need the exact fuse outline on the circuit board or is there another problem that is blowing each fuse-???

electronics neophyte needs help- I want to watch Throne of Blood!!

**
(thanks in advance)
 

Russlk

New Member
The DVD player has an internal problem that must be repaired. If you can find a knowledgeable person who is willing to work on it, it may be repairable, but these things are usually intended to be thrown away when they don't work.
 

Chapter13

New Member
yeah, i realize that i can probably get another one for about 100 bucks but I alsways try to fix things if i can, 50 % of the time i get lucky- I thought there might be some other thing on that circuit board (where the fuse is located) that i could easily check out
 

Johnson777717

New Member
Well, you can go down fighting if you wish. Check all of the connections, make sure there aren't traces of overheating (Usually very obvious browning of the circuit board). A general cleaning of the unit wouldn't hurt. I wouldn't use any solvents, just good old soft cloth to wipe the dust away.

Other things you can do are to find the proper fuse type, and see what happens.

Check for continuity, where there should and should not be continuity.

Look for signs of overheated components, and replace if necessary.

Make sure that when you place a new fuse in, to close the lid of the DVD player. Some units have a grounding tab that connects to the lid of the unit. Without the lid in place, proper ground is not achieved and therefore could be a point for trouble.

Other than that, you're going to get complicated, and may as well get a new unit. Good luck!
 

Nigel Goodwin

Super Moderator
Most Helpful Member
There's nothing wrong with the fuse you tried, fuses don't really have voltage ratings (at least not to affect your problem!).

It's most likely that the switchmode device has failed, this could be a transistor, a MOSFET, or an I/C - generally they don't have any recognisable numbers on them. There's also likely to be a reason it's failed, a large mains surge could have blown it, or it could have been caused by faulty components on the PSU board - a VERY common fault in recent years is failure of electrolytic capacitors - a recent report said that huge quantities have been manufactured in Korea incorrectly, causing extremely early failures.
 

Chapter13

New Member
Nigel Goodwin said:
There's nothing wrong with the fuse you tried, fuses don't really have voltage ratings (at least not to affect your problem!).

It's most likely that the switchmode device has failed, this could be a transistor, a MOSFET, or an I/C - generally they don't have any recognisable numbers on them. There's also likely to be a reason it's failed, a large mains surge could have blown it, or it could have been caused by faulty components on the PSU board - a VERY common fault in recent years is failure of electrolytic capacitors - a recent report said that huge quantities have been manufactured in Korea incorrectly, causing extremely early failures.

thank you. It is pretty frustrating to have a machine this new breakdown, only had it for about a year. I no a guy who may be able to help me, at least i can get a quote but more than likely, I probably will be buying a new player.
I long for the days when equipment used to be stable and would last a long time.
 

Johnson777717

New Member
Good day!

Nigel, would you happen to know the source for the capacitor news in Korea? I would like to read up on this story. Thank you very much!
 

Chapter13

New Member
Johnson777717 said:
Well, you can go down fighting if you wish. Check all of the connections, make sure there aren't traces of overheating (Usually very obvious browning of the circuit board). A general cleaning of the unit wouldn't hurt. I wouldn't use any solvents, just good old soft cloth to wipe the dust away.

Other things you can do are to find the proper fuse type, and see what happens.

Check for continuity, where there should and should not be continuity.

Look for signs of overheated components, and replace if necessary.

Make sure that when you place a new fuse in, to close the lid of the DVD player. Some units have a grounding tab that connects to the lid of the unit. Without the lid in place, proper ground is not achieved and therefore could be a point for trouble.

Other than that, you're going to get complicated, and may as well get a new unit. Good luck!

thanks, yes i did check for some obvious visual cues and the inside is pristine looking, i tried what you said about the lid but a fuse still blew...

thanks
 

Exo

Active Member
switch mode power supplies rectify the AC to DC almost directly afther it enters the device. Check the bridge rectifier, sometimes one of the diodes is shorted and causes fuse blow.
There should also be a feedback circuit with optoucoupler wich you can check but it isn't always there.

The cap thing could be a lead also. I've received numerous defective pc motherboards the last year, all with defective cap's, so something really went wrong at japanese capacitor manufacturers these last years.
 

Nigel Goodwin

Super Moderator
Most Helpful Member
Johnson777717 said:
Good day!

Nigel, would you happen to know the source for the capacitor news in Korea? I would like to read up on this story. Thank you very much!

I was given the URL at work, it was some kind of international news service - a quick google search found this , but it's not the original article that I read previously.
 

grandev

New Member
Chapter13

Interesting not on your problem.I also had the same problem with my toshiba dvd player,after a power outage the dvd never turned on again.I opened it up and also found the fuse T 1.6 burned and replaced it with the exact one.Blew right away.So I guess I am not alone with my 1 year old junk.Alos had a power surge bar which I guess doesn't work???? :x
 

Sebi

Active Member
Repairing a switchmode PSU hard thing without experience. When the mains fuse blow out, most of case one or two (or more) semiconductors failed, made a shortcut. The most suspicious device the switching device: BJT or FET, but unfortunately this failure most of case destroy the IC.
Sometimes failed 1 or 2 diodes in bridge rectifier, and/or the buffer elko.
When these few parts healthy in primary side, the fuse not blown.
 

Nigel Goodwin

Super Moderator
Most Helpful Member
It's also very advisable to change all electrolytic capacitors in the PSU, these are often a cause of PSU failure. Particularly with the huge numbers of faulty ones currently originating in the far east.
 

B-o-b

New Member
Toshiba 5DK600 DVD player

Ok, this problem is beginning to sound all too familiar! I'm currently repairing a PS board a DVD player, with the same exact symtoms U had.

Altho I don't remember the brand of DVD player it is (possibly Toshiba), the PS is in fact a Toshiba PC-Power-2700. (Sound familiar?)

This PC (power supply) had a blown fuse (obviously), D801 and D802 were shorted, Q801 was shorted, and D808 was shorted. Ya might try checking these parts in yer supply, see if the same is true.

These are the parts recommended to change (some are obvious):

* D801 thru D804 ... 1N4007
* Q801 .................. FS3KM (or NTE 2387, IRF830)
* D808 .................. 6.8V/0.5W zener
* F801 ................... 1.6A (8AG style fuse)

Also, a tech note suggested connecting a 56K/0.5W resistor from the gate of Q801 to ground.

As of yet, I haven't done all this, but I've been told it's supposed to work. Hope it works 4 U.

Cheerz,

B-o-b
 

grandev

New Member
Sorry guys,I just had posted that my sd 1700 blew after a power surge.And after sending it to get repaired the estimate was to expensive.(They quoted me $165)Canadian.So I refused and brought it home.Now I am looking into the board and found the parts you guys suggest to change(not a pro in electronics)and can't seem to find D808 diode on the board...(power pc 2700)can you give me and idea in relation to another part please..Q801 is clearly visable...thanks... :oops:
 

B-o-b

New Member
D808 diode location

Ok, assuming yer look'n down on the PC board, with the power connector located at the top (upper left), then U should find D808 right next to Q801 (towards the direction of the power connector). It's closest to the "G" or the Gate side of Q801. It is very small, but U should be able to find it, unless U have a different version of this board. Hope this helps.

Bob

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...can't seem to find D808 diode on the board...(power pc 2700)can you give me and idea in relation to another part please..Q801 is clearly visable.
 

grandev

New Member
Again me

I changed the q801 and changed d808(is it the one from r815 and r813)and still the fuse blows.Is it possible the t801 filter cause the short..Thanks
 

grandev

New Member
Thanks Bob

Thanks Bob for reply...I don't find anything writen d808,found clearly all the other ones.I did find a diode across R815 and R813(hopefuly that one is it) and changed that one,along with q801.All that aside the board still doesnt power up and the fuse blows...I heard the t801 could cause that also/the line filter(183y0r5)..is there a way that can be tested??/I cant fin the part anywhere to purchase (Canada)Thanks guys
 

Nigel Goodwin

Super Moderator
Most Helpful Member
I've got a manual for the UK SD110, which sounds fairly similar - does your PSU have an 8 pin IC, Q802 a TA1319AP, and two opto-isolators?. On my circuit D808 is in parallel with D809, they go from the gate of Q801 to PSU primary ground.
 

grandev

New Member
I give up

Hi Nigel,the board is pc power 2700 and is from a Sd 1750 dvd player.I do have the 8 pin ic you mention,but again there isn't anything on gate of Q801..no d808 or d809??the ony diode without a # is across r815 and r813...and I changed that one...along with q801.....The t801 was smoking
at one time upon replacing fuse(before parts q801)so I was wondering if the t801 is testable(line filter)..thx
 
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