Help with multiple switching

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nickname

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I am a complet newbie, so no laughs plz,
I am currently trying to make a project which requires multiple switching. Too explain when i hit a switch i want all the other switches to be bypassed. and when i hit another i want all but the one i hit to be bypassed.
Is there any easy way of doing this, or could you tell me any way of doing this. I will be willing to listen and learn.
Also i am a bit confused with op-amps when i see a normal op sign i dont know which op-amp to use. When i say normal i mean, two inputs which is + - and one output. also one with a power output.
Thanks for the reads and help.
Nick Winder
 
What do you mean by "bypassed"? What was the switch doing before it was bypassed? Is "bypassed" the same as "off"?
 
Hi Nick,

How about a small bank of press buttons with a mechanical release on each button.
These are easily obtainable, normally when one button is pressed,
any of the other buttons are released, just the one pressed stays down.

I think that would be the easiest way to achieve what you first described.

As to the op-amps, there are so many that you will have to read up on them
for yourself, as i am not clear what you mean.

Regards, John
 
THanks for the info,
The prolem is that it is a floorboard, so the buttons have to be a certain space apart.

As for the op-amps this is the schematics which they apear on.

While i'm hear i am stuck on what the last resistor is at the end, labeled ???.

thanks for the reads and responds.

Nick winder
 

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The ??? resistor is just a load, it could be omitted. BTW, the opamps with feedback to the positive input are not going to work!
 
Russlk said:
the opamps with feedback to the positive input are not going to work!
Click to expand...
They will work fine and the circuit is commonly used as a "gyrator" which is a simulated inductor. The inductor in series with C1 make a series tuned circuit. They are frequently used in audio graphic equalizers like this one:
 

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Except the ones in the circuit you posted have the output connected to the inverting input, NOT the non-inverting one?.

Which is the normal gyrator configuration I'm used to!.
 
Hi Nickname nooby,
Your circuit and the one I posted are audio graphic equalizers. They are tone controls that can boost or cut various frequency bands.
Each frequency band is adjusted to correct inaccuracies in the frequency response of speakers. Once the bands have been adjusted to correct the speaker's response, they aren't touched again.
I used to install a locking cover over the controls to prevent tampering.

I don't know why you want to bypass only the one you are adjusting. Usually a graphic equalizer has a button to bypass them all so you can hear the difference between the original un-equalized response and the corrected one. :lol:
 
Here is the gyrator part of the circuit that I posted:
 

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I just noticed that every single opamp except the 1st one in the original post have their + and - inputs backwards! :lol:
 
audioguru said:
I just noticed that every single opamp except the 1st one in the original post have their + and - inputs backwards! :lol:
Click to expand...

That's what we're on about :lol:
 
Connect all the switches in parallel.

This means pick one end of a SPST switch and connect the ends togehter. Now the remaining ends are connected as well, so that you now have two main connection points. When one or more switches are on, the circuit is complete.

SPST = single-pole-single-throw: a switch where only one state exists, and has only 2 pins. The pins form a short when the switch is on, and The pins form an open circuit when the switch is off.
 
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