H-Bridge Driving me MAD, help needed

[burners]

hi,
The ZXMHC is only the drivers, you would still need level shifters for the logic inputs.

The L6202 looks ok, it should drive the small motor and its logic level compatible, its puuurrrfect for the cats toy mouse.

The L6205PD is a serious overkill for a mouse toy motor, its also a dual bridge

Sweet i will grab one of those and some other stuff for my next order.
I have some questions on the pins if you can help, It looks like this is how I hook it up, can you confirm and help with pins 11 & 17

Pin #
02 - +5 from Micro (I need this pin HIGH before I supply voltage to the Inputs ?)
04 - GND
05 - GND
06 - GND
08 - Output 2 to Motor
09 - Input 12 Volt
10 - Output 1 to Motor
11 - (Do I need a Capacitor here? How do I connect it if so ?)
12 - Input 1 from Microcontroller
13 - GND
14 - GND
15 - GND
16 - Input 2 from Microcontroller
17 - (Do I need a Capacitor here? How do I connect it if so ?)
18 - Capacitor to GND


I also seen this in the documentation

Vs Supply Voltage (MIN:12) (TYP:36) (MAX:48) V
Vref Reference Voltage IREF = 2mA (TYP:13.5) V

Do you think it will be a problem because I will be at the MIN 12 Volt and my Vref will be below 13.5 V ?

 

[ericgibbs]

hi.
Get this datasheet with applications notes.
L6202 datasheet and Application Note, Data Sheet, Circuit, PDF, Pinout | Datasheet Archive

EDIT:
CBOOT info app attached, doesn't give information for the required values.????

 

[burners]

hi.
Get this datasheet with applications notes.
L6202 datasheet and Application Note, Data Sheet, Circuit, PDF, Pinout | Datasheet Archive

Yeah thats what I looked at.

 

[cr0sh]

Why not an L293 or L298? Note that the L298 will not mount on a standard 0.1" hole-spacing perfboard (but you can buy adaptors from various people - I've had good luck with these: JRHackett.net: L298 Adapter)...

 

[burners]

Why not an L293 or L298? Note that the L298 will not mount on a standard 0.1" hole-spacing perfboard (but you can buy adaptors from various people - I've had good luck with these: JRHackett.net: L298 Adapter)...

Im open to anything, I just found those with a quick search on Mouser.

 

[burners]

L293 B D or E ?

 

[cr0sh]

L293 B D or E ?

Any one of those should be fine for your application; go with what you can find - BTW, you can find such parts likely cheaper than Mouser or Digikey if you're willing to go surplus (heck, even chinese suppliers on ebay are generally cheaper)...

 

[burners]

Any one of those should be fine for your application; go with what you can find - BTW, you can find such parts likely cheaper than Mouser or Digikey if you're willing to go surplus (heck, even chinese suppliers on ebay are generally cheaper)...

The L293D has a different block diagram compared to the B and NE

 

[burners]

I found these on Solarbotics
**broken link removed**
**broken link removed**

They use the L298 and L293 which appear to be overkill and I told myself if I hit $20 I might as well buy an RC ESC.

I also found this for cheap which might be cheaper directly from Sparkfun
**broken link removed**

I think thats the way to go. I was also thinking about changing the motor to something with a better gear reduction that runs on 3-6Volt. Then I could keep the battery power and build my own H-Bridge.

 

[burners]

Sweet, I found this on google which shows the L293D in use with an Arduino with complete instructions.
Since I am using an Ardweeny I should be able to literally follow this step by step.

Control your motors with L293D | Let's Make Robots!

Im gonna order up an L293D along with some other chips and parts soon, then I will start another thread on the actual cat toy itself.
I am still thinking about swapping the motor out for something more speedy / responsive.
The motor I am using now needs a full 12v just to have any speed at all and then its so noisy because of the crappy gear box that Im worried its just gonna scare the cats.
Only problem with that is I have no idea what gear reduction ratio I need but I guess I could get one of those Tamiya motor reduction kits that lets you try several ratios with 1 setup.
**broken link removed**

Then I could buy the proper motor and gearbox once I know which one to get. I could see the Tamiya coming in handy for future projects too.

 

[ericgibbs]

hi burners,
The difference between the L293 and L293D [is the D has suppression Diodes] , which you need for a motor/inductive drive.

 

[cr0sh]

hi burners,
The difference between the L293 and L293D [is the D has suppression Diodes] , which you need for a motor/inductive drive.

You can always add them on yourself - in fact, depending on the motor, you may need external ones of a higher rating; still, good advice to know!

 

[ericgibbs]

You can always add them on yourself - in fact, depending on the motor, you may need external ones of a higher rating; still, good advice to know!

hi,
The L293D is a 'dedicated' inductive load driver whereas the L293 requires the external suppression diodes if used on an inductive load.

 

[burners]

Anyone have a suggestion on a gear reduction motor to use? 50:1, 100:1, 300:1 ?
I don't know what to get I know its hard to help without knowing more but let me know what you need to know. They size of the disc that the laser sits on, the current gear ratios, pictures. I just don't want to buy 3 motors before finding the right one lol.

 

[burners]

I'm thinking about getting this motor
**broken link removed**

According to my math it will run at 4.97 RPS @ 3Volt which should be plenty quick enough.
That means I should be able to shoot the laser across the floor which would be 180 Degree of the motor in less than 1/4 a second not including any stop to start delay.

If thats not enough I can go up to 6 volt with the motor and nearly double the speed.
I think I would rather get the new motor at this point for several reasons
1- Quieter running at less volts and with a better gear reduction mechanism
2- Possibility to operate on 4 AA batteries
3- Easier to interface if it runs on 3-5 volts, I can just build the H-Bridge myself as originally planned without the need for a Logic Converter
4- 1 less cord going across my entertainment system
5- Less chance of a fire if I do something wrong

 

[burners]

OK I just ordered up some goodies to help with my project and so i have a few extras on hand.

I was able to get almost everything from Sparkfun except 2 items which I still had to order from Solarbotics.
I contemplated ordering everything from Solarbotics since it would put me over $75 and shipping would be free but the following things stopped me
#1 shipping from Sparkfun is cheap ($4 today)
#2 Solarbotics is in Canada which = 4+ weeks shipping time even though I'm in Michigan and they are right by me. I can drive there in a few hours.
#3 Solarbotics is a complete rip off on their BS "handling" fees that they throw in at the last minute. This is probably the biggest for me, just plain out dishonest IMO.

Anyway enough of my rants about Solarbotics. Heres the run down on what I got ordered from Sparkfun
Micro Metal Gearmotor 30:1 - SparkFun Electronics
Micro Metal Gearmotor Bracket - SparkFun Electronics
Motor Driver 1A Dual TB6612FNG - SparkFun Electronics
OpenServo - SparkFun Electronics

And I still wanted an L293D which although made by Sparkfun, Sparkfun didnt carry it any longer. Also decided since I was gonna get bent over on a $12 part ($25 after shipping and "handling") i might as well throw in another Ardweeny.

**broken link removed**
**broken link removed**

Shouldnt be too long before I get the Sparkfun order.

 

[burners]

I decided to browse Pololu today and found what could have been the perfect Micro
Pololu - Baby Orangutan B-328 Robot Controller

It's an AT328 with 2 built in motor channels which support up to 1A.

Damn, its cheap too.
You can get one with the USB programmer for something like $30
Pololu - Baby Orangutan B-328 + USB AVR Programmer Combo

 

[cr0sh]

Is there any particular reason why you are shopping "new" for these parts (solarbotics, sparkfun) instead of "surplus" (all electronics, electronic goldmine, etc)? Certain parts I understand would be difficult or impossible to source from surplus (like fairly recent microcontrollers, for instance), but others (like the gearmotors, L298, etc) can likely be picked up for a much lower price. Do you not trust surplus, or are you approaching this from a different angle where you want to be able to purchase components manufactured "today" that won't run out "tomorrow"?

 

[burners]

Is there any particular reason why you are shopping "new" for these parts (solarbotics, sparkfun) instead of "surplus" (all electronics, electronic goldmine, etc)? Certain parts I understand would be difficult or impossible to source from surplus (like fairly recent microcontrollers, for instance), but others (like the gearmotors, L298, etc) can likely be picked up for a much lower price. Do you not trust surplus, or are you approaching this from a different angle where you want to be able to purchase components manufactured "today" that won't run out "tomorrow"?

For something like this where I am only making a 1 off and just want it done ASAP I generally go with what I know and I have ordered from both locations in the past with good results.
I recently took a chance with Futurlec because of their prices and it took 2 months to get the order in the mail.
I do have 2 other projects in which I will be looking for surplus pricing on the parts because I will need to order a lot of them but for something I am only doing once I don't mind spending a few extra $$ to get it now from a reputable distributor.

 

[burners]

BTW All Electronics is a rip off.
I ordered from them in past before I really knew prices and realized how badly I was taken for.
Some things there are fair priced, like something they have close outs on motors and such but I ordered some transistors among other things and realized I could have got my whole $100 order from another vendor for around $70

I will check out the goldmine, I never heard of them.