Garage door motor wiring question...

[Todd S]

OK, I 3D printed a new driven sprocket that is double the number of teeth of the yellow one shown in the video above. I'm hoping that gear reduction will reduce the load on the motor/capacitor.

Also found replacement capacitor online for a few bucks. Why the range of Capacitance (53-64 mfd) on the start capacitor? Is one value for starting and the other for running?

If yes, would a capacitor with a higher or lower running value alleviate my problem? Which value is "running", first number or second?

 

[hyedenny]

OK, I 3D printed a new driven sprocket that is double the number of teeth of the yellow one shown in the video above. I'm hoping that gear reduction will reduce the load on the motor/capacitor.

Also found replacement capacitor online for a few bucks. Why the range of Capacitance (53-64 mfd) on the start capacitor? Is one value for starting and the other for running?

If yes, would a capacitor with a higher or lower running value alleviate my problem? Which value is "running", first number or second?

Because the capacitors are TESTED within the range specified.
Do not use a capacitor other than that specified for a particular motor design! It changes the magnetics and phasing, and inefficiencies and overheating will occur.
There are dual capacitors which include a start capacitor and a run capacitor, but yours isn't that type.

 

[gophert]

OK, I 3D printed a new driven sprocket that is double the number of teeth of the yellow one shown in the video above. I'm hoping that gear reduction will reduce the load on the motor/capacitor.

Also found replacement capacitor online for a few bucks. Why the range of Capacitance (53-64 mfd) on the start capacitor? Is one value for starting and the other for running?

If yes, would a capacitor with a higher or lower running value alleviate my problem? Which value is "running", first number or second?

Connect it to the PTO on your tractor.

 

[Todd S]

Because the capacitors are TESTED within the range specified.
Do not use a capacitor other than that specified for a particular motor design! It changes the magnetics and phasing, and inefficiencies and overheating will occur.
There are dual capacitors which include a start capacitor and a run capacitor, but yours isn't that type.

10-4, copy that. I'll replace the capacitor with identical specs and see how the larger sprocket works. Thanks

 

[blower]

I would say it differently; in the USA, the Black wire (120Vac power feed, L1) would connect to the common terminal of the center-off switch.

 

[blower]

I understand everything on the diagram except for the capacitor. Is that inline between the fuse and center pole of the center-off switch?
thanks!

 

[Diver300]

I understand everything on the diagram except for the capacitor. Is that inline between the fuse and center pole of the center-off switch?
thanks!

No. The motor has three terminals, as Mikes post (from 6th July 2009!) shows. The capacitor is permanently connected between the red and blue wires. The neutral of the mains is permanently connected to the white wire.

To make the motor go one way, the live of the mains is connected to the red wire, with the blue wire getting power via the capacitor.

To make the motor go the other way, the live of the mains is connected to the blue wire, with the red wire getting power via the capacitor.

It's the standard circuit for a capacitor-run motor.

 

[blower]

Thanks for responding!

Ok, I just realized that the capacitor is indicated between the switch and the motor in the diagram.

The capacitor that came with the garage door has two terminals. Each terminal has two blades.

Do the red and blue wires go on opposite terminals or opposite blades of the same terminal?

Assuming a fuse and AC L1 go to the center pole of the switch, and the motor white wire connects to AC neutral... is this correct wiring for the capacitor?

 

[Diver300]

Thanks for responding!

Ok, I just realized that the capacitor is indicated between the switch and the motor in the diagram.

The capacitor that came with the garage door has two terminals. Each terminal has two blades.

Do the red and blue wires go on opposite terminals or opposite blades of the same terminal?

Assuming a fuse and AC L1 go to the center pole of the switch, and the motor white wire connects to AC neutral... is this correct wiring for the capacitor?

Yes, that's correct.

The two blades on one terminal are for wiring convenience only. They are clearly connected together and you can use one or both, whichever makes connecting it easier. The circuit diagram will not usually show them as separate.

 

[blower]

Awesome - thank you!

I also held onto this GD opener for a Halloween decoration, but couldn't get the motor to run without the safety switches. I tried everything to bypass, but they are designed to not allow it... so I thought I'd just take the whole damn thing apart.. and voila!

I love the internet

 

[Yellowbeard]

Hi! Similar question, same motor. I was hoping to run a grain grinder with it. It’s one that can pretty easily be turned by hand though I have yet to test the load.
Anyone have any opinions on this they’d be willing to share?
Would I be better off just buying a different motor? One rated for continuous use? If this motor MIGHT do the job, can someone recommend the right capacitor for this?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Yellowbeard]

Here is an image of my motor and capacitor.
What I need is 60RPM (max) out. The standard motors that run this kind of mill alter 1/9Hp. This one is, I believe, 1/3Hp.

 

[MaxHeadRoom78]

That is a standard (Chamberlain) garage door motor, it is PSC (permanent start cap motor) each winding is identical and either used for start winding/direction.
Switch L1 to either R or S for direction.
It show 43 to 53 uf, ensure you get motor run rated cap.
You may have luck with a Trac 'Dimmer' style phase controller if you need lower RPM.
Max.

 

[Yellowbeard]

That is a standard (Chamberlain) garage door motor, it is PSC (permanent start cap motor) each winding is identical and either used for start winding/direction.
Switch L1 to either R or S for direction.
It show 43 to 53 uf, ensure you get motor run rated cap.
You may have luck with a Trac 'Dimmer' style phase controller if you need lower RPM.
Max.

Thanks Max! I actually went ahead and wired it to a plug and hooked it to a surge protector so I could test it. When I switched it on it just hummed, but by manually goosing it a bit I got it to spin. When I removed it from service (I got a belt-drive garage door opener), it was working fine. I don't know if it would have had some extra capacitor or something to get it going under normal conditions. (Unfortunately I jettisoned the other parts from the drive box). None of this really matters because I can just give it a manual nudge to get it started in the application I have in mind.

Do you happen to know the normal RPM of this motor? I was looking up formulas but I don't know how many poles it has and I can't find a spec sheet on it. If I knew the RPM, I could calculate the size pulley I need to get 60RPM at the output end because I can measure my wheel diameter of my mill.

Any opinions about whether or not this thing will work for relatively short periods (10-15 minutes) without catastrophic failure? I ask because, in its life as a garage door opener it only operated for short periods of time, of course.

Thanks!

 

[Yellowbeard]

This appears to be a really old part. I can't find specs on it. However, I did manage to find a 1/2 hp UPGRADE which I found some specs on indicating that it is 1000RPM output. My final wheel diameter is 12.25 inches, which would mean I would need a .75" v belt pulley mounted on the 1/2" diameter shaft that comes out of this motor. They don't make such an animal (it's impossible, given the depth of the V belt groove).

The smallest pulley I can get that will mount to that shaft is 1.5" (giving a final RPM of a bit over DOUBLE what I need it to be). However... I figure using the smallest possible pulley is probably good because it will put the least strain on the motor.

This means I need to rheostat down the speed of the motor (or use a dimmer, as Max calls it). I will look into those, but if anyone has a good idea where I should order one then I would appreciate it. I looked up "Trac 'Dimmer' style phase controller" and couldn't find anything. But Triac came up. Is that what I should be looking at?

Sorry - neophyte here.

Thanks!

 

[MaxHeadRoom78]

Depending on your location (50hz/60hz) it will be 1445rpm - 1745rpm. 4 pole motor.
With the right load it can be ran continuous.
If you want low RPM then you either need another motor technology or a motor and gear box.
Max.

 

[Yellowbeard]

Man. You are awesome. So does this mean I can NOT use the dimmer application you mentioned above in this case to lower RPM?

I am in Arkansas, USA, so I guess that means 60hz, which I guess means the upper end of that range.

I’ve been pricing geared speed reducers. Man are they expensive. If I can slow the RPMs of the output shaft to 500 I can make it work.
Thanks again. Sorry for all the follow ups.

 

[Yellowbeard]

Also (totally unrelated): awesome handle. I watched that show when it was originally on television. Based on your handle I’m guessing I’m about 3 years older than you so we probably grew up watching the same stuff.

 

[MaxHeadRoom78]

It may run OK with the Dimmer, being a small PSC motor, there are some controllers made especially for power tool applications, although aimed at the Universal motor types, they will usually run PSC motors, but usually for light duty, fans etc, so if loaded by some different application, they are known to drop out of run!
Either a DC motor or a AC motor and G.B. is the better option.
P.S. I am possibly a little older than yourself, I watched the original series when it first aired on the UK airwaves in 1985.
Max.

 

[Yellowbeard]

It may run OK with the Dimmer, being a small PSC motor, there are some controllers made especially for power tool applications, although aimed at the Universal motor types, they will usually run PSC motors, but usually for light duty, fans etc, so if loaded by some different application, they are known to drop out of run!
Either a DC motor or a AC motor and G.B. is the better option.
P.S. I am possibly a little older than yourself, I watched the original series when it first aired on the UK airwaves in 1985.
Max.

Hmmm... I watched the series when it first premiered in the US in the mid-80s (I was born in 75, actually EXACTLY 10 years before the TV movie's British debut, which appears to have happened on my birthday - thanks Wikipedia) so was 12 when it debuted in the USA in 1987.

I was guessing that your birth year was 78, but now am less sure (no need to answer this, of course). I do note that there were 78 episodes of the series, however.

I tried a 5 position switch for a ceiling fan but there was no effect on the motor. However, I may not have wired it correctly. Is there any chance of getting a wiring diagram of what that should look like including the capacitor which is currently hooked in parallel (I just left it hooked up as it had been when I took everything apart). I tried hooking the switch I have (I can include a picture if that helps) directly into one and then the other leg of power before the capacitor, but I am guessing that that is not correct. The motor ran at the same speed (apparently top speed) no matter what position I had the switch in.

If I can't throttle this back electrically, I will just build some gearing for it, but that is a more difficult option so I'd rather do this if possible.

Thanks for all your help!

Interesting note: I attended Uni in the UK as an exchange student last century. I was at Essex for the 1996-1997 school year. I know a LOT of Essex girl jokes (or did, at one point... can only come up with 3-4 off the top of my head at the mo').

Cheers!

W.C.