Congratulations, nice job!
Something you might try on another board ... make the center holes of the pads small. When you do that, they act almost as a center punch mark would. When you drill the holes for the pads, the drill bit can't "walk" off-center (or drift, or whatever you want to call it) and the holes are drilled in the center of the pad. I've done it this way for years and it works great for me.
Jeff
Is it just rash on the top, or is it actual pinholing? Can you see light through the board anywhere on the large fill areas?
I usually set mine to 0.015" diameter, but you may have to experiment to find out what size works best for your process.Mark68 said:Sounds good, I think someone mentioned that to me in the beginning of the pcb stage..kinda forgot. What is a good hole size to get desired center punch?
This is the result of all those that gave me excellent advice. You know who you are.....Comments, suggestions, or whatever Welcome!
Great looking board!
I usually put some identification on mine, years later I might forget and not be able to find the the file, if I should need it again, because the filename escapes me.
So if you have room put Made by:
Date:
File name:
Please clarify your above statement, it don't make sense to me.{snip}
I ran it through the laminator about 4 times....and let it warm up for over 30 minutes so I think the laminator was hot enough. After the paper came off I used warm water to get the toner off. And the rest of the toner that didn't come off I used green pad with acetone to get it off. I had to scrub it pretty hard for awhile to get it all off. Is that normal?
Any comments greatly appreciated!
Thanks as always in Advanced!
Mark
My version of version number is simple, I use a letter + number after the filename, (it actually becomes part of the filename), which I increment each time I make a revision. The exact replica is engraved on the board so there are never any doubts about its identity,I like to include a version number. It is very useful if you use and programmable parts on the board. #idefs can be used to build or understand software for various versions of the board.
Eagle allows for a comment file in each project. In it I record changes and even information that I learn while building the board. What to change in the next rev to make life easier. If your PCB program does not support it you can do much the same in a text file.
3v0
Great looking board!
I usually put some identification on mine, years later I might forget and not be able to find the the file, if I should need it again, because the filename escapes me.
So if you have room put Made by:
Date:
File name:
I like to include a version number. It is very useful if you use and programmable parts on the board. #idefs can be used to build or understand software for various versions of the board.
Eagle allows for a comment file in each project. In it I record changes and even information that I learn while building the board. What to change in the next rev to make life easier. If your PCB program does not support it you can do much the same in a text file.
3v0
Please clarify your above statement, it don't make sense to me.
After etching the toner should wipe right off with a rag soaked in acetone. Make sure the board is dry first.
{snip}
Put the tranfer paper through machine about 4 times.....and dropped it in water immediately as recommeded....about 2 or 3 minutes later the paper easily slid right off the board with the inprint clearly visible on the board...put it under water and pieces of the toner came off here and there....the rest I used the scrubby side of a sponge with acetone...and like I said it was not real easy to get off of the board....I didn't use elbow grease....but I scrubbed it off like I would be washing a dish or something to that effect. It didn't wipe right off, that's for sure. Soooo.....i dunno, what did I do wrong?
"Put the tranfer paper through machine about 4 times....."
You have to keep exact count! If you don't, how are you going to change or replicate the results the next time? I have seen post by forum members running it through their machines more times than that.
If the toner don't stick to the copper then it was not not hot enough to transfer or the copper wasn't clean. That is the problem with laminators there is no easy way to determine that the board has reached its 300°F laminating temperature.
I would not use a sponge (don't ask me why) use the tip of a rag soaked in acetone.
Mark68 said:I am not sure what you mean by, "if the toner don't stick", I'm guessing that the toner is sticking too much if I have to scrub to get it off after etching. Right?
about 2 or 3 minutes later the paper easily slid right off the board with the inprint clearly visible on the board...put it under water and pieces of the toner came off here and there...