Etching system

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UPDATE. After etching the PCB (before removing the P-N-P) I noticed some very small bubbles on the surface. And sure enough the etch was not 100% perfect. I will now calibrate my iron to around 300°F and lock the temperature dial in place somehow.
 
Pinholes in transferred toner

Hi all, Ive been doing TT PCB's for years using HP lasers. Recently bought a used Laserjet 4P (drum on my old one died) and found that its partially used cartridge was "Lexmark". Considering that a new HP cartridge would be more costly than the price of the used Laserjet I said to myself go for it, all that can happen is a fouled image. Quess what, it came out perfect, not a pinhole in sight. Since then I've burned about 24 Sq.In. of PCB's and not a single pin hole. Everything else is the same, so it has to be the Lexmark cartidge toner. FYI
 
TT == toner transfer.

I use inkjet paper and get great transfers on traces. gound planes get some pinholes, though. Generally, the area has to be around 200 mils wide or more before I see the pinholes.
 
Rolf said:
It might even be nice if you threw in a brand name, item # and where it can be purchased, plus the cost
PC Plus, June 1998, purchased from Budgens.

Any thin glossy magazine paper works for me.
 
Well, I tried the el cheapo copier, and it actually works. I used to hold the iron on the page for almost 20 minutes (or run it through the laminator 8-12 times). I tried the copied version, and it worked almost perfectly in about 8 minutes. Woohoo!!
 
Hero999 said:
PC Plus, June 1998, purchased from Budgens.

Any thin glossy magazine paper works for me.

Is English not your first language? So why do you call it "magazine paper" when you mean "a page out of a magazine"?
 
Hero999 said:
Well a page out of a magazine will be made from magazine paper.

Why are you bieng so picky?

I am "bieng" (your spelling) picky because we can not discuss anything intelligently without using the proper terminology, It causes all kind o problems. For example; every body (except a one or two, I found out when I went and revued ALL the posts) kept referring to this magazine paper, that I had newer heard off and could not find.
 
Uh, I'm a native English speaker and "magazine paper" means exactly the same thing to me as "paper out of a magazine". I knew what he was referring to.

Given the international nature of this board, it does make sense to strive for clarity in our communication.
 

You can talk, stop being so bloody hypocricital. Your above post contains at least three errors.

"It causes all kind o problems", don't you mean "It causes all kinds of problems"?
Everybody is all one word.
What does "revued" mean? Don't you mean "reviewed"?

When I first read about using magazine paper for toner transfer I thought of paper from a magazine, it's blatantly obvious!
 

For those of you that missed my previous post:
Here is the definition of magazine paper I found:
"Magazine paper,a paper suitable for printing of periodicals. It is manufactured in a wide range of grades and finishes, two or more of which are frequently used in a single issue. Both coated and uncoated grades are used, depending mainly on the requirements for illustrations and halftones."
Not nearly the same as a page from a magazine.
 
wow, pedantic, aren't we??? I'd so glad you are able to see the difference between paper used to make magazines and paper taken from a magazine. I guess some sort of magic transformation occurred somewhere in the process and paper taken from a magazine is no longer magazine paper. And, no, it's not called "printing".

to avoid this post being totally off topic, you want to use coated magazine paper. In fact you can use any paper as long as it is coated. this prevents the toner from soaking into the paper. Coated papers include magazine paper from glossy magazines, photo paper and inkjet paper. Anything glossy is coated. You can even use the backing paper from peel-off labels.
 
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