Frosty_47 said:Well I am not building this so much for over clocking. The purpose of this project is to kill fan noise, prolong the lifetime of my hardware, and stop the computer from heating up my room (If I leave it running for a few hours, the room temps increase by 4-6 Celsius).
How are you going to keep the pipes cool?Frosty_47 said:I forgot to mention that I am using my second fridge that is downstairs in my laundry. I will be running the cold water upstairs via 1/2" PVC pipes (basically drill wholes right through the ceiling.
Frosty_47 said:I am building a custom liquid cooling system for my pc. My radiators are mounted inside a freezer (that’s -10 degrees Celsius). I am concerned about the vinyl tubing that turned rock solid under this temperature. Is it acceptable for the tubing to be in such a cold environment?
erosennin said:Yeaahhhh, I wouldn't do that... lol... it might end up building up inside your pump.
The best coolant to use is 100% or 99.6% as close as you can get, Ethanol. I.e. Methylated Spirits. It won't conduct and it wont freeze until -114°C and it won't boil until 78°C, but under pressure the boiling point will be raised.
rjvh said:at first the cooling system that you made looks nice
personaly i would not realy worrie on the hoses that you used as long there is no mechanical stress in the system
that means also that with temparatures of -10 the cooling fluid still have to be fluid, vodka is nice to use doesn't freez up if your pump stops running and keeps everything inside your cooling system clean
the only thing is that plastic hose (doesn't mater which plastic) don't realy conduct the heat/cold that good
you could use better copper tubing or aluminium, your local aircon technichian deffinetly has some scrap lenkts that you can use also a good one is Stainless steel (but hard to bend in the shape you want)
still i am suprised that your room is heating up that quick How big is your room (cubic meters)????
and your computer works with a CRT monitor or not ?
i doubt that prolong the life time of the hardware is one of the main reason
if you don't change annything the computer and hardware is still running after 10 years (i live in the tropics and the computers here does) at that time you're using already a long time something diffrent
Still than nice system
Robert-Jan
Hero999 said:How are you going to keep the pipes cool?
Bob Scott said:Plastic can get very brittle and shatter in cold. Have you ever tried to use a vinyl extension cord at -20?
Monitor the condensation on the outside of your tubes carefully, especially in the summertime. You don't want the innards of the computer to get moist. Excess humidity may not be a problem for you in the dryness of winter, seeing as how you already use a drum type humidifier to try and compensate.
If your cooling system is split between elevations (upstairs/downstairs) keep in mind that the coolant pressure in the system will be higher at the lower elevation-downstairs. If the coolant has the specific gravity of water, a 10 foot change in elevation will cause the liquid pressure at the lower point of the system to be about 5 psi.
Add a coolant reservoir at the highest point. Centrifugal coolant pumps generally have a hard time if any air in pipes accumulates at the top.
Did you discover that guck in your humidifier while investigating the possibility of running the hoses through the air ducts? Man, throw that humidifier away. I bought one just like that when I lived in Winnipeg. We were getting sick quite often until I discovered that bacteria and mould infested gelatinous slime in the humidifier.
Looks like your stove was recently raised. I did the same thing too, with the 4 inch board nailed at the bottom. It was too low to be kid proof. And that Jana box? I haven't seen the Jana brand for years. I thought they were out of business.
EDIT: Oh, I just remembered - in case of leaks, Propylene gycol is not toxic. Ethylene glycol tastes sweet but is poisonous to pets. Major liver damage.
Regards, Bob
killivolt said:Actually the mold can Mutate your DNA and Cells become Inefficient during reproduction. There by compromising your immune system response and it's all down hill after that..................... Trust me I know.
Like a domino effect then age progressive decease's now take a whack at you and boom your buggered up.
God, quit handling that sh.....t* makes my skin crawl.
yngndrw said:Frosty: A lot of people using Water Chillers in the overclocking world use Tygon R-3603 with no problem.
I might point out that, depending on the heatload that you're applying, your freezer probably won't be able to handle any decent overclock. This is because freezers are designed to keep a low(ish) temperature in an enviroment which has almost no heatload. (Except the losses through the insulation and the warm air when you open the freezer door.) What hardware are you using this on ?
What kind of waterblocks are you using ? Most of the chiller guys use all-copper blocks to stop the acrylic and rubber cracking.
I hope you're going to use Armaflex to insulate the piping runs. Remember to keep the pipes short, as long pipes add to the heat load. You'll also want to keep an air-tight seal around your CPU socket to stop condensation. Again this can be done with Armaflex sheeting.
Finally I'd suggest you get some hose clamps on the joints:
**broken link removed**
Good luck.
yngndrw said:I can't tell if that's a thankful reply or a sarcastic reply.
I'm only trying to help.
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