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Component ID

J.BO

New Member
Any ideas? What I know: 5 leg Gull Wing package with the only identification markings being H2A. I think this might be a comparator, but not sure. This one is tough as I cannot even distinguish a manufacturer logo. Any help is appreciated.
 

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J.BO

New Member
It does look like 6 pins, but there's actually no leg on the other side, it's a dummy pad for a NOT CONNECTED if there was an actual leg. There's not much of anything around it other than a few caps, resistor, and an SMD fuse.
 

throbscottle

Well-Known Member
I just can't resist these things. Ask anybody!
SMD devices are notoriously hard to identify - you have to make a list of candidates and eliminate the ones it isn't.
It might be this: https://www.torexsemi.com/products/single-type-voltage-regulators/series/?name=xc6220
or this: https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NCP4586-D.PDF
or this: https://datasheet4u.com/datasheet-parts/RP130N121D-TR-FE-datasheet.php?id=1021655
Or similar. If you examine the circuit you will be able to see it makes sense as one of those.
What I am seeing in your photos though doesn't match up with those devices as pin 4 (top, right) is NC for those types of regulator, yours clearly has a track going to it.
There is also a Toshiba transistor marked H2A, the TPC6501, although it has 6 pins. So they might have designed for that then put in another one with same marking but only 5 pins. Very unlikely but you never know.
Texas offer a buck regulator which looks like it, but I don't think it's likely as I can't see an inductor in the photos: https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlv62565.pdf?ts=1596748547835
According to this site: http://ecworld.ru/support/sdd/h2.htm it could be an op-amp from Analogue Devices, but if you look up the actual amp AD don't list H2A as a case marking. OTOH based on their pin-out, an op-amp might be the most likely thing for it to be.
 

J.BO

New Member
Thanks throbscottle, that's some good detective work, I need to up my game. At first I thought it might be a comparator, but now I'm leaning towards op-amp as well.
 

throbscottle

Well-Known Member
Ahh... I'm a die-hard board-pull collector.
Check the power on the thing and see if it's where you expect it to be - again, eliminating possibilities. Look at the connected components and see if they match a well-known configuration.

Some device markings simply aren't listed anywhere except the data-sheet for the device though, and you can't find the datasheets online for quite a lot of devices (or, you find a preliminary draft and it's in Japanese, kind of thing).
Good luck with whatever that thing is you've Dremelled open, anyway :)
 

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