I kind of like the "fun" look. Even if work is boring, tools don't have to look that wayBesides, the 888 is more compact than the 936.
So would the thermocouple seen in the photo I attached in my last post be considered large or small? I don't have any frame of reference.
So should still be able to get within a few degrees by putting that thermocouple in a blob of solder big enough to envelope it or what?this is not quite an exacting science. The goal is not a calibration to within fractional parts of a degree.
So should still be able to get within a few degrees by putting that thermocouple in a blob of solder big enough to envelope it or what?
They make the FX-888 in three other colors including black but those colors aren't available in the U.S.
Hakko discriminates color on the basis of nationality.
https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx888.html
This is what I attempted to do using my DMM and temp probe. However the solder was repelled by the thermocouple, even with flux.I kind of like the "fun" look. Even if work is boring, tools don't have to looks that wayBesides, the 888 is more compact than the 936.
Still using a Weller TCP here (temperature set by the bit and a magnet on the end of it).
Have some Antex's at work (SD50) but changing the bits is a bit of chore on those compared to the weller or the iron you have brought- looks indentical type of bit changing process. I love the Weller TCP's build quality but it would be neat to have control of the temperature.
I would really like to do some reading on this.
I do use the wet sponge method using my cheap $50 Weller but it seems as if the tip is bending a bit over 2 years of use and I don't apply any pressure at all!
OK, correct me if I'm wrong, but if you set your iron to 228, the solder won't melt. Or even 250. 300 yes but it will take some time. The higher the temp, the quicker it melts. Also, 0.6mm solder will take less time to melt than 1.5mm.An an option is stock some eutectic lead free solder, for example Sn96.3Cu0.7 has a melting point of exactly 227C
OK, correct me if I'm wrong, but if you set your iron to 228, the solder won't melt. Or even 250. 300 yes but it will take some time. The higher the temp, the quicker it melts. Also, 0.6mm solder will take less time to melt than 1.5mm.
The idea is that the drastic cooling of a hot tip caused by a water cooled sponge can cause microfractures in the tip; recall that the iron coating on a copper tip is relatively thin. If fractures make its way down to the copper, the flux + heat with start to eat the copper up, and thus, reduce the life of your tip. If you have a tip that is eroded more on the inside on the tip than the outside, chances are it had such a microfracture. It may not happen when the tip is new, and the iron coat is at its thickest, but will matter more when its more worn. Also, build up of contaminants on the sponge, if not the water you use, can retain the flux elements that will continue to wear the tip.
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Yep, and not just the chance of fracturing but the metal fatigue makes the tip frosty and less able to be wetted, than a good polished tip.
I've been using the "aerated solder blob" technique (which to my knowlege I invented) since the late 1980's when wet sponge was actually considered to be the "proper" way to clean a tip.
I have tried the brass scourers but they are not even close to the solder blob technique for ability to polish the tip. Also the brass usually comes with a lubricant (to keep it shiny) which contaminates the tip and interferes with wetting.
I actually find quite the opposite. The brass curls are excellent for cleaning the tip and keeping it wetted. Maybe you got a bad one?Also the brass usually comes with a lubricant (to keep it shiny) which contaminates the tip and interferes with wetting.
Why worry about the calibration, find the dial setting that works well in each situation and then use it over and over.
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