Cheers Ron, I could not think for the life of me the name!! Analogue meter!!!! That is what I was thinking of when I said coil meter! I could see the stupid thing but I dunno maybe all that EMF has fried some cells!!I am going to use Cowboybob's switch to select either or both and I will low side current sense with a 50 or 100 amp DC shunt driving an everyday fool proof analog meter with a zero center so you have -50 - 0 - 50 Amps or 100 Amps. An analog meter will take a beating be more than accurate enough. I havent a clue what your charge rate is with the engine running or what the current draw is on a start? Anyway, I like crude and simple, especially on a boat.
Give this a read.
Ron
The alternator's output is fed back to the battery through the starter relay to battery cable.... But I cant get to anything safely to measure it from there. There is a large toothed flywheel on top, and where I would connect for taking a reading is a bit close for comfort. As for charging...... ...
Cheers for that, I havnt messed with the engine. I need to track down a manual for it if one exists! It seems to run great, but I might try and get it serviced later in the year. We have a really good boat place not that far from me at Ardwell. The guy there seems to know his stuff and its only 40 mins away. They dont sell much (well not much I can affordThe alternator's output is fed back to the battery through the starter relay to battery cable.
You can measure the alternator's output (at the engine) by checking the voltage level, with the engine running, at the battery connection on the starter relay (using the engine block as your ground).
For that matter, you could also get that value across the battery"s positive and negative terminals (again, engine running).
You should see ≈12.5-14vdc, depending on electrical load and RPM.
The above description is true for most (if not all) outboard engines with starters. And keep in mind that the valued observed does not necessarily indicate that the battery is taking the charge - it only indicates that the alternator is generating charge level voltages.
It seems like low-side current sensing could lead to problems. The low connection point of everything (I would say "ground" but I'm not sure what terminology you would use) should be at the same potential.
I thought I had seen some sealed Hall effect DC current sensors on ebay but I must be picturing AC sensors. This picture from ebay sort of shows what I was thinking, but it's not sealed. With a Hall effect sensor, there's also the need to zero out any magnetic fields - I don't know how often you'd have to do this.
View attachment 105594
These guys seem to have one. I say "seem" because to get it, even though it's "free", they want a credit card #, etc.. Your call.... I need to track down a manual for it if one exists! ...
Follow the positive battery cable into the engine. Ordinarily, it will (eventually) terminate at the starter relay, which should look like this:... Then maybe you can point out which bit is the starter relay!! ...
A similar device is probably used for the trim motor.... Seems to be more than one relay in the thing. ...
How about this one (1980). Once you get under the hood you can compare the pieces parts to the schematics/graphics.Actually I think that cant be the engine, it says 1999-204, I am pretty sure the engine is older than that.
Hi, I ditched the canopy!! It was a PITA at seaHey ghostie, I used to have a norman, a 26' centre cockpit job, I loved it.
Making your own canopy canvas is not a job for the feint hearted, start with one without windows as you need a special gizmo and skills to do that.
As for heating, electric probably isnt a good idea unless you have shore power, the outboard probably wont generate enough power for that, they tend to be only around 100 watts.
As for load sensing, either make a shunt from some copper bar or something like that, or get one o those really cheap power usage indicators off china ebay, some have an rs232 port, all you need is then supplied as a string, current, voltage, power, amp hours in, amp hours out etc.
Yeah but yachts are going cheap at the moment, motor boats are not. Besides no reason to not use the inboard engine on themYes the 22' was earlier than the 20', and the inside layout is different, maybe thats why you dont get on with it.
The 20' and most of the norman range (which were previously callumcraft and postly atlanta) were meant for inland cruising, and a lot were not built for high power high thrust motors, but some were, those have a couple of I beams running along the keel to stiffen the hull quite a bit, yours will (or it better with a 65hp o/b) have something like this, otherwise the outboard will end up in the cabin.
The draught depending on who quotes it can be without the prop, the bottom of the keel maybe 18" but the bottom of the prop could well be 24", the n20 is a displacement hull so its meant to have a deeper draught to increase load carrying and be easy to pilot, a planing hull would have much less draught and will only be just in the water at the front, if you want to go like a dont know what the n20 isnt the right bucket, it will go reasonably quick but if you push it with 120hp without any hull mods you'd just push the back end under the water.
Shouldnt take long to save some readies for one of those sailors, they arent really my thing, I like to turn a key and go, sod the wind.
Yes its tough that, I had a similar thing with my mam.
At the end of the day though matey its just a boat, do with the old girl what you want.
I've had lots of fun on boats, in fact pretty much the first time for everything happened on a boat.
Being out in the open, learning skills, such as restoration and navigation will do you a lot more good than an x box, oops sounded like yer old man used to there a bit.
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