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a new PCB manufacturing method wanted

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Random said:
I'm looking at building a UV exposure box out of an old broken scanner - do you have to expose the entire board all at once, or can you do it in a sweeping motion for a longer time?

Also, where could I buy the Bungard Original PCB's?
 
And here's my uxposure unit.
 

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Nigel Goodwin, I can't believe you've got a box labelled "crystal microphones"

Yes I have them, about 25 of them, all new, "Lapel" type Microphones.
Come in Handy for some projects.

Screech Posted: And here's my uxposure unit.

Looks Fancy. I just use Sodium Hydroxide to develope the boards. Much Cheaper that the developers you purchase.
 
samcheetah said:
chemelec said:
I just use Sodium Hydroxide to develope the boards. Much Cheaper that the developers you purchase.

actually i wanted to ask you guyz about the developers you use. is Sodium Hydroxide as good as the other developers like the universal developer (Sodium Metasilicate). whats the difference between the two

I use the more expensive Universal Developer, because I have only heard good news about it.

There are many website that warn to never use the cheaper Sodium Hydroxide.

Many on-line stores advertise their delevopes with CONTAINS NO SODIUM HYDROXIDE

from another on-line store:
Also unlike more hazardous developers ours has a unique built in safety factor of 50:1, thus ensuring that overdevelopment which causes image loss, thinning of tracks, undercutting etc. is almost impossible.

Thats why I use Universal.
 
evandude said:
It seems to me that laying the board on the table, setting the pattern on top, and then laying a piece of glass or plexiglass on top would be faster and easier than clamps... Not to mention, it would ensure that the pattern lays totally flat against the entire board, not just in the areas where it was clamped...

and a piece of glass or plexi should only cost you a couple dollars at the most, if you don't have one around already.

I'm gonna try that. So basically, I will have to hope and pray to god that the glass is strong enough to flatten the transparency.

I bought one sheet at $1.50, almost as expensive as press-n-peel, but ya know what, I will use the sheet through the printer until it is 100% crammed.

After all, 1 sheet will do because my circuit board is smaller than the sheet.

I got a UV light bulb at home (it isn't your ordinary house light bulb), and it is bright. I'm afraid if I look at it, it will blind me out.

Is there any specifications I should look for in glass (other than plexi-glass?) to minimize light exposure time?

and what is supposed to indicate that my exposure time is up when I do the board? or do I just expose it for an hour and then just continue?

My god, this topic is 4 pages long! :lol:
 
I'm gonna try that. So basically, I will have to hope and pray to god that the glass is strong enough to flatten the transparency.
file down the edges of the board so there are no high spots lifting the glass up.

Is there any specifications I should look for in glass (other than plexi-glass?) to minimize light exposure time?
I just use the glass from my framed photos.

I got a UV light bulb at home (it isn't your ordinary house light bulb), and it is bright. I'm afraid if I look at it, it will blind me out.
I wear sunglasses when I have to look at the light, but for only a second.

and what is supposed to indicate that my exposure time is up when I do the board?
Trial and error will dictate that, for your setup.
 
Try this post:
Electronic Circuits and Projects Forum
Circuit Simulation & PCB Design
new method to manufacture pcb at home
 
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