I' not following well for whatever reason, but here my $.02. y comments may or may not be valid.
What's a Web Controller 8.0?
The 10 A 12 V. I got.
The two directions, I got.
Some history. Many many moons (1980's) ago, I made a drapery closer for an apartment balcony door for my GF.
Motor was a 24 VAC synchronous motor with and limit switches were mounted on the wall. I had access to a machine shop at the time, but the principle was simple.
Limit switches were easy because of the way the motor works.
But, there had to me a Manual/Auto mode switch and a Open-off-Closed switch.
The motor would be operated by a timer or the manual control. The timer had only a ON/OFF 120 VAC output.
If the drape had to be operated during a power failure, remove it from the drive system. Because of simplicity, the opening was limitted to somewhat less than 2x the motor to rod distance.
So, you the the problem? A manual/auto switch. It worked well for many years.
It was way to early for it's time, but some thought went into how it might operate:
The timer would use pulses for on/off.
A single button would be used for manual control.
A push while stopped will move in previous direction.
A push while moving would stop.
Hitting a limit would stop motor and toggle previous direction. OPEN CLOSED limits would be updated.
Push and hold might be used to set/exceed limits if there was some other sort of limit detection.
Later, I did a multiple motor 6V DC, unrelated project with braking. A strange combination of electronics/relays and simple SCR power shutdown of the power supply if current was exceeded for a certain amount of time
You generally learn that there are 4 possible modes:
Direction - FWD/REV
COAST/BRAKE
NOT ENABLE (or speed)
You can short the motor windings to make it stop faster. For DC motors using low current, diodes can easily help do the limit switch thing.
That said, you can use the following sort of control mechanisms:
1) A direction relay and a NOT enable relay
2) A Forward relay and a reverse relay. This one can be a bit peculiar. Tie the common terminals of the two relays that connect to each end of the motor. Tie the Normally Closed (NC) terminals on each of the relays to ground.
At this point, and with both relays off, the motor is grounded or braked. With both relays on, the motor sees 12 V at both ends, so it doesn't move.
Now arrange it, through a SPDT limit switch at each end which relay is not allowed to activate.
You MIGHT wish to add a way to bypass the diodes when stuff gets stuck. A DPDT switch could easily do that with a set of contacts across each diode.
Relays should also have the coil suppressing diodes as well.
So, this "switch at the door", manual/auto, "override", "Overload:Thermal/fuse/PTC/replaceable" has to be thought out a bit. If it's under control of a micro, the switches can be "request to open" and "request to close" with some maintenance mode that overrides the micro all together.
PTC is aPositive Temperature Fuse, sometimes known as a Polyfuse and is often used to protect motors and batteries.