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The 4.7uF input capacitor in your first schematic has its polarity backwards. Your tach signal is a positive voltage and should connect to the positive wire of the 4.7uF capacitor.If I'm understanding correctly, I still use my tach input to the 4.7uf cap run that though the 10k resistor to pin one and back off pin to ground using a 20k resistor and .02uf cap.
Your tach signal goes up to 14.2V. The 10k and 18k at the input resistors attenuate it to 9.1V.Then measure the actual voltage at pin 1 (or what would be pin 1 after assemble?) after that circuit has been built take my primary supply voltage and run it through a resistor to pin 11 and from pin 11 back to ground,
The schematic shows what the pins do. They are not in sequence. Pin 12 is the ground pin of the IC. Pin 11 is a reference voltage for the opamp and can be any voltage that you make it (within the power supply voltage range).#2 is on the datasheet it counts (in several places) 11 - 12- 10 -9 - 8 ... won't pin #11 always have a full ground, is it pin #12 you mean or is my datasheet wrong (having 11 & 12 swapped), or ... actually set pin #11 at 1/2 trigger voltage??
Yes.6000 ERPM (8 cylinder engine)[/I]
6000 ERPM should be 3000 pulses per minute... which is 50 hz on an 8 cylinder engine, right?
It is not shown in my National Semiconductor datasheet and is wrong.further reading says I can "clamp" the output voltage (pin 5& 10) with a resistor back to V+
The 10k resistor turns on the diode continuously and provides a voltage of +0.7V.if I follow this diagram won't pin 11 always have zero volts or is a diode not "absolute" and acts as a resistor in one direction (I must assume)
3) b/c you posted a link and didn't elaborate... car guys sure a lot nicer and more helpful than electro-geeks.
I'm a newbie and don't deny it one bit. I'm going to study and learn ohms law, no problem there....and yea, I may be slightly rude but it's only b/c i came asking for help and caught a lot of slack.. and IMO not much help from the get-go.