i need help with my monostable circuit!!

[GromTag]

This one via the 600mW rating at 300°C, I am not even to attempt to approach that. I'll stay in the lower 25.0 mW range and let an logic driver or an Logic FET device function the output as heavy load coordinator/conditioner for the LM555 IC.

As for the OP device, this is most likely the reason for the one time worked correctly then no correct operation issues.

:Edited:
Ohh, and let an 100R avg resistor act as an external limiter for basic switching for pin 7 on the 555 IC.

 

[GromTag]

This is an concept towards the ideal.

 

[toh liu wang]

The circuit didn't work

 

[toh liu wang]

Nothing happened when i pressed the switch

 

[toh liu wang]

My 555ic is warm though

 

[toh liu wang]

 

[toh liu wang]

This is the circuit now.

 

[toh liu wang]

The relay did not activate.

 

[toh liu wang]

I will try out the schematic diagram you have provided me with. However, i do not have the transistor now. I will head back to school tomorrow and try out the circuit above.
But for my circuit now, why isn't the motor moving?

 

[GromTag]

It turns out for values used by the circuit, the discharge pin was pulling an enormous amount of current from the 470uF capacitor. In doing so may have damaged the 555IC. Thus adding an resistor to the pin 7 would reduce the inrush current and limit the amount.

The transistor will provide the output with better control options when the current rating is possible within the or any Transistors current rating per device datasheet.

As for the reason why the motor is not moving, the 9V battery may not have the current rating for that configuration.

The battery should operate the motor, the battery should operate the relay, all tho what of both? Possibly not so well, the odds are that the IC being the driver for the relay OR motor if the battery cannot sustain stable power/current to the circuit would cause oscillation from the IC, to us it would be viewed as an dim lit bulb, or an buzzing from the relay if the battery were just able to drive the circuit, tho that is a slim chance and would require the battery to be in a very narrow remaining power window, (falling out of regulation) Otherwise it would not be noticeable.

If the IC is damaged, then the end result could be an different number of things, the IC getting warm is a sign that it is attempting to drive the relay if the IC is still in working order by the assumption of the 9V battery initially having weak current availability to begin with, and the only exception to that would be potential flyback voltage that can well exceed the battery by double with timed inductor collapse thus damaging the IC.

an inductor can even be used to power an CFL light bulb from an 1.5V AA battery.
So the return from that relay shutting down can be considerable.


That's the issue that running inductive circuits face with an inductor of some resistance, the 70R coil in the relay @ 5V would require 71 or so ma draw to be fully on, then on shut down the fly back Diode is supposed to remove as much of the shut down spike as it can even tho it is an sluggish responder in doing so, it still shows effectiveness on many circuits for basic spike removal.

The motor, it would need to have an Ohmmeter placed across the terminal leads to find the resistance rating then an current rating could be determined, OR the motor could be placed with the motors positive lead on power supply +,
the motors common lead to the multimeters red test probe with the meter set on current mode, on auto range for digital or highest setting for analog types, with the multimeter common black lead to the power supplies common, then observe the reading and then that would indicate the motors current use in basic terms, motors and many coil filament lights take an amount more to start them the the current level settles to the rated value.
The multimeter is completing the circuit for the motor in series whilst monitoring the current use by the motor.

Current is an overly used word here....

 

[GromTag]

Again solderless breadboards are risk takers on loose connectors, especially with voltage spikes that can arch the connection points resulting in incomplete signal transfer.

 

[GromTag]

This is the potential issue with the chip being damaged, and any other placed in that direct drive arrangement.

 

[toh liu wang]

Thanks man!! i will try to get it done soon!

 

[toh liu wang]

I will follow the schematic diagram and see if it works.

 

[toh liu wang]

Sorry for all the trouble!

 

[toh liu wang]

I'll let you know when i am done with the arrangement of the circuit!

 

[audioguru]

The circuit will not work when the battery is dead. Was its voltage measured after the button is pushed?
None of the photos shows what is printed on the IC. Who made it and is it really a 555? Was it a used defective one or a fake from ebay?

 

[toh liu wang]

Yes, the voltage was around 8.5V. But now, maybe the voltage has dropped.
I don't think it is a defective one as when i replace the motor with the led, it works just fine.

 

[audioguru]

An LED draws low current so of course it will work. But you don't know and we don't know how much current the motor uses which might be higher than the weak little battery can provide.

 

[toh liu wang]

So do i need like a 12V power supply?