help wiring a IEC320 C14 socket

[vinnyp10]

hi Folks,

I was wondering if someone can help me wire this switch....

I found a diagram here that bi-passes the fuse but I DO NOT WANT to bypass the fuse

I got this switch:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F4MGRRE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

here how I think its wired...

a little help please!!!

 

[kubeek]

It seems to be correct, but I really cannot be sure how that switch is wired.
Basically that link on the lower left goes from line to the fuse. Then the black wire coming from the other end goes to one half of the switch. The white wire goes from the neutral of the socket to the other half of the switch. Here I am not sure if the switch is divided into a top half and a bottom half, or into a left half and a right half. But I would guess the way you have it now is correct.

 

[AnalogKid]

You can't bypass the fuse. The fuse is hand-connected to the Line input with a swaged metal jumper.

ak

 

[vinnyp10]

i do not want to bypass fuse//////

 

[Rich D.]

If the switch is how I suspect it is laid out, the two-pole switch has a top and bottom pole because the switch is "sideways" compared to the usual up/down flipping. Wired like that it should work fine. If it was wired top/bottom then flipping the switch will instantly blow the fuse. A clear, close picture of the front and back would help. Most of us here could figure out how to wire that up with a good look at the item.

If you have a DMM you can verify the switch wiring by touching the two white-wire (remove the wires first to be sure) contacts and flipping the switch. It should alternately read open ("OL") and shorted (a fraction of an ohm). I shouldn't have to say this but MAKE SURE IT IS NOT PLUGGED IN! Duh.

 

[Les Jones]

Why not just use your multimeter to verify removing the fuse breaks continuity between the black wire from the inlet module and the live pin on your mains plug. From the layout it looks to me that one end of the fuse is linked to the input pin by the metal strip. The output side of the fuse is linked by the short piece of black wire to one side of the switch. he other side of the switch is connected to the black conductor in your 3 core cable.

Les.

 

[gophert]

.

 

[vinnyp10]

OK...I wired it up like I posted but the light in the rocker stays lit regardless of switch position. it powers the power supply but again the rocker light stays lit all the time

 

[Les Jones]

Are you using this connector as a power OUTLET instead of a power INLET. If so it is dangerous to do so as the pins will be live and can be touched.

Les.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Hi:

My turn. I don;t particularly like the wiring chosen in the pic.

My take without measuring anything.

Neutral and ground connections are obvious. The Line side is permanently wired to the fuse. so, you have to take the power from the fuse side.

The little leads that are connected to the fast on terminals mean one of two things:
1) The lamp is independent
2) The lamp is permanent wired to one position of the switch.

With a toggle switch, you can "follow the bat". One of the terminals that are connected is found by extending the handle to the terminal. With something like a DPDT switch, you would have the middle and the end just described. Slide switches are different.

In the US, we usually don;t switch neutral.

Without doing some type of measurement, It's hard to figure out what the switch does.
1. Independent lamp
2. non-independent lamp
YOU NEED TO SWAP THE POSITIONS OF THE BLACK WIRES on your pic `https://www.electro-tech-online.com/attachments/wiring-of-320-jpg.97232/

You could short together the two top white wires, This would effectively not switch the neutral. It is OK to switch the neutral in a piece of equipment, but it's generally not done. White only needs to be connected to the lamp side.


It might be safer to switch the lamp out of the circuit with the "extra pole". In essence, neutral is switched to just the lamp. This would leave one terminal with the resistor unconnected.

I would expect the black wire to be switched with a connection to a terminal without the lamp lead and one without. Power from the "outside world" would connect to a terminal without the resistor.

You would provide a neutral to the lamp which could be switched or unswitched.

I'm thinking that the switch is SPDT and power is switched "horizontally". It CAN, however be such that the further apart terminals switch power and the lamp is totally independent.

If the product seems to turn on and off but the light is still on, swap the order of the connections to the lamp and black.


You can also
Remove the LEFT top connection and place your white jumper there. Now splice into the new white jumper position for the neutral.
There will then be an unused terminal on the entry module. The light will still work when switched. Neutral for your circuit would come from a splice to your jumper.
This modification will not switch the neutral. It's optional.

As it stands, I can see that the light would be on all the time. Excuse me for "thinking out loud" rather than just providing an answer.

 

[vinnyp10]

Les:
I am using this as a power inlet. I am putting this switch on the side of s case that contains a power supply unit that powers my charger for my radio control hobby batteries

And K.I.S.S

Wow. Lots of info for someone like me. I will try and sift through it and get back to you Thanks. Stay tune

 

[Les Jones]

My GUESS is that the switch is a DPST switch with the neon connected between the two right hand connections. IF THIS ASSUMPTION IS CORRECT then swopping over the balck wires (As KISS suggests.) to the switch should make the light go off when the switch is in the off position. The load will still be switched on both poles but the neon will only be switched on the live side. If you also swap over the white wires to the switch (The top two white wires in the picture.) then both the load and the neon will be switched on both poles. I suggest that you test the switch with your multimeter to confirm or disprove my guess before changing things round. I suspect that the switch is a snap fit into the plastic moulding and it has been inserted the wrong way round.

Les.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

This https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/358/typ_DD11-58007.pdf is similar and a lot easier to understand in term of connections.

it's a DPST switch with a lamp connected on one side. In your case, the side with the small leads heading inside the switch.

Les and I are on the same page.

 

[vinnyp10]

well after bunch of help...I got it..the light in rocker turns on only when rocker turned to on position and power supply is powered...

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

I'm OK with that. You just don't "typically switch the neutral, BUT the datasheet of a somewhat similar power inlet did.