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Help identifying components.

Henkel

New Member
Hi. Hope you are all going strong.
I was really hoping someone could help me identify some components on a circuit board from an IP camera. Image attached.
Your assistance would be greatly appreciated. Please excuse my ignorance if any.

IMG_08782.jpg
 
Welcome.
1: Two zero ohm resistors
2: 15 ohm resistor probably thermal.
3: Diode
4: Capacitor
5: Capacitor
6: Ferrite bead
 
Thank you Externet. With regards to the capacitors, how do I identify/measure the type of capacitor being used? Same for the ferret bead.
Take the capacitors out and measure them, they commonly don't have any markings - the ferrite bead doesn't really matter anyway, it's just a bit of wire going through a piece of ferrite, and a piece of bare wire would work just as well.

Why do you want to know anyway?, do you have a similar board where those components have been damaged?.
 
Hi Nigel Goodwin. Thank you for your advice. I have another board exactly the same that got burnt out. Most of the components are ok, just a couple of the ones from my image above need replacing. Possibly not all of them but thought I might get the parts in while I was at it just in case.
 
Hi Sophia Zeng Thank you very much. I thought it might be some kind of fuse. I was not finding anything online that was similar as a resistor and it runs in line with my power input.
Has it blown?, it's easily checked with a meter. Also check the diode, that 'might' be a reverse polarity diode, and could have gone short if the power was connected the wrong way. The other parts shouldn't be damaged, unless mechanically so.
 
Nigel Goodwin It has blown. I put too much power through the input. The 3 parts that are definitely gone are 2,4 and 5. Attached image of the blown board. The trickiest part to replace will be the small capacitor, number 7.

IMG_088522.jpg
 
In which case 4 is probably an electrolytic or tanatalum capacitor (by the way it's split), and a much higher value than the others. I'd also quite expect other components to have been damaged as well, but giving no obvious visible signs - the little 6 pin IC to the left of 7 would be a likely suspect?.
 
Thanks Nigel Goodwin. I still have to do a fine check on all the components. I am hoping it will just be the obvious ones that are gone, but the chances of others being an issue are quite probable considering I stupidly pushed 240V through 12 volt system. Im hoping the fuse took most of the impact and the others are minor collateral.

I am having trouble sourcing a new fuse with the same specs. This one has an ih=1.5A and lt=3A. Would it be a problem if I used on that has ih=1.1A and lt=2.2A?
 
Hi Sophia Zeng Thank you very much. I thought it might be some kind of fuse. I was not finding anything online that was similar as a resistor and it runs in line with my power input.
Maybe you can contact with the sales from Wayon,and check if they can get any samples for you.
 
Thanks Nigel Goodwin. I still have to do a fine check on all the components. I am hoping it will just be the obvious ones that are gone, but the chances of others being an issue are quite probable considering I stupidly pushed 240V through 12 volt system. Im hoping the fuse took most of the impact and the others are minor collateral.

You'll be VERY lucky if it's not damaged a lot worse if you're stuck 240V up it :D

Many years ago, Pace used to sell an analogue (Sky type) satellite receiver with built-in surround sound amplifiers, and we returned one to Pace for repair on behalf of a customer. The units used the usually 'push and release' speaker terminals, and a figure 8 mains lead. For some bizarre reason after he took it home, the customer cut the figure 8 plug off the mains lead, and connected the bare mains wires to one of the speaker terminals?. This required another return to Pace :D

Presumably that puts your occurrence to shame :D

I am having trouble sourcing a new fuse with the same specs. This one has an ih=1.5A and lt=3A. Would it be a problem if I used on that has ih=1.1A and lt=2.2A?
Just for testing I wouldn't bother with a fuse at all, just temporarily short it out, and power the unit from a bench PSU with current limiting - then assuming you manage to get it working?, you could worry about sourcing a fuse then.
 
Thanks Nigel, that does make my incident look like like childs play.
That being said, I am not entirely optimistic that I have not properly cooked my board, but I figured if I can not do any worse I might as well try fix it. (Famous last words).
Good advice on just shorting the fuse for now. I will give it a try and go through the whole board properly.
 

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