Exprimenting with ElectroPlating...

[Someone Electro]

You beter put the electrodes and the spark gap right in the coleting glass.That way you dont have to wory about air tight seals.Water can seal it perfectly.

 

[williB]

that plus & minus is going to the gas generator ..
the right side is where i will take the gas from..
probably using a tube out the top connected to the valve from a lighter and the sparker of course.. :twisted:

 

[drrogla]

Is this what you weere trying???

You turn on the DC voltage(12V will do), wait about 20 min then spark the igniter. you get a bang and water sprays out of the tubes :lol:

 

[Someone Electro]

I already seean that on an nother website it was sci-toys.com i think.

They got good results whith it.

 

[Someone Electro]

Uffff hidrogen is certanly not to be toyed whith.

I ran 100V DC trough water and then shothed them under water this ignitted the bubles on the wires and sqorted about 1/8 of the water out and in my face! :lol:

 

[Someone Electro]

WOW i just found out somting cool.

Now i salted the water soo much so no more salt can disolve and ran 120V trough it. wen i trigerd the SCR i the negative wire flashed orange.So then i just toched the surface whith it and i got an realy bright and long flash whith an cool sound too.

Dose anyone know why this hapends?

EDIT:
I atached an video of it.

 

[williB]

I tried your video and i only heard the sound
Be carefull though , allright ?
when i was doing the experiment , i was only using 4.09V at 2 A , to make the gas..
what i have is an array of plates, copper & zinc , seperated by little insulators.. in fresh water it gives a resistance of 2.0 ohms .
and the bubbles really flow.!

 

[Someone Electro]

Do you have an DivX codec?

Me and my frend can play videos ecoded by Pocket DivX.

In case there are more or you outthere whith no DivX codecs hers an screenshot of it

 

[Oznog]

The flash is an electrical arc. If it were metal-to-metal it would be throwing sparks but that won't happen when water is one of the conductors.

This is dangerous and won't effectively produce electrolysis. 120v will cause a small amount of electrolysis and a huge amount of heating. The water will boil. Touching this rig will electrocute you. Go with a much lower voltage, isolated from the AC line.

Hydrogen/oxygen explosions are quite unusual because the products have less volume that the original gas. At first the heat makes it expand but the product has 2/3s the original volume as steam at the same temperature. The steam won't stay steam as it mixes with air either, much will condense into water again at it cools which has essentially no volume relatively speaking. So it's an initial explosion quickly followed by a much less violent implosion.

 

[Someone Electro]

This is not mains!

We have 220V and 380V mains here.This is DC from capacitators.

And yea i noticed this heats up the water a lot.

Its not that dengerus to toch it if you have dry hands.I once did and just got a tiny jolt.

It may be that it electrolise of salt makes enugh clride to pusch avey the water wich the comes back in contact and the proces hapends agen.

 

[MagnumForce]

Cool.

Don't worry, I didn't cover my experiment (for more then 30 minutes any way), so there was no explosion hazard.

I did however cover it for a short time with a dome shaped plastic thing. The result was, that the oxegen and hydrogen gatherd to the top and simply re-combined back to water in the form of water droplets on the plastic dome.

I used a 12v power box type thing (technicaly its 13.8v) that can put out 1.75amps.

Well I decided to put a electric motor into it and use it as the negative anode (I can't spell).

Since I wasn't doing electroplating, I don't think it would of matter which anode I put it on. The result was that the copper wiring inside the motor began to brake down and started to fill the container. The positive anode was a small screwdriver (its body was made of steel, with an Iron tip). Some of the copper (I think its copper, since it is the same color as it) began to collect on or near the screwdrive. But I don't think was electroplating, since the copper didn't stick to the screwdriver.

This time I used plain water (no salt though) to do the experiment.

Whats really cool, was that the motor still worked (well sort of, I had to take the core thingy and put it in a new motor body, and it work a little, but one coil was completly dead, out of 3. Which was because I recently wired it to a 120v AC power source. lol, man I'm stupid sometimes)

Now I am having fun using the 12v power source to re-charge 6 disposable batteries in series(the kind that arn't recharchable). I just do it to make them explode and leak and stuff. (though its not as violent as the battery companys want to you to think). AAA batterys explode much sooner then AA batteries, and much louder too. Thats what I learned from that one.

It normally takes about 30 min of charging to make at least one of the batterys explode. AAA batterys however exploded only after 5 minutes of charging!

Duracell batterys actually recharge pretty well, and got 30 min out of them using a portable cd player, then I would just recharge them again.

Even after the duracells exploded, they continued to hold a decent charge.


So if you want to recharge non-rechargeables, go with Duracells. lol.

P.S Don't worry, I handled the exploded batteries with extreme care, so I was at no risk of getting any battery acid on me.

 

[Someone Electro]

I also found out sotmign interesung.

It heats up water to realy hot at the top of the box but remeins perfectly cold at the botom.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

I also found out sotmign interesung.

It heats up water to realy hot at the top of the box but remeins perfectly cold at the botom.

Heat rises!.

If you leave it long enough, conduction and convection currents will spread the heat throughout the water - although the top will always be hotter, see previous line :lol:

 

[Someone Electro]

I know heat rises but there is an tremendus difrence. It realy hot at the top and even half way down is prety cold.

The difrence is enormus.

 

[williB]

hmmm.
that H2 , O2 flame is invisible isnt it ??
finally i got it to burn .
it lights with a little pop , nothing like butane .
I wasnt sure it was even lit , till i burnt my finger with it.. :cry: :wink:

 

[Someone Electro]

Did anything show uo on an webcam?

It probobly radiates IR.

 

[williB]

i havnt tried yet :wink:
but i will see..

 

[Oznog]

Isn't hydrogen AND oxygen in that container? This is a self-combustible mixture.

Butane, for example, cannot burn in an enclosed container. And the flame won't travel down the tube because the flame can only occur where it mixes with oxygen at the end of the tube.

This mixture is explosive and can travel down the tube and blow the collection chamber which is somewhat dangerous.

Or did you only put the collector over the electrode which makes hydrogen? There's still some danger because some of the oxygen liberated at the other electrode dissolves in the water and can evaporate out at the hydrogen electrode collector.

There is a tiny welding torch used for jewelry called the "Hydroflame". You guessed it- it uses only water and a great deal of electricity to hydrolyze its own fuel inside the device.

 

[williB]

This mixture is explosive and can travel down the tube and blow the collection chamber which is somewhat dangerous.

i realize this , so if anyone tries this PLEASE be CAREFULL
without keeping constant downward pressure on the collection dome , it could suck the flame back into the tube..

 

[hyedenny]

Sulphuric acid will NOT damage drain pipes. They are NOT made of concrete, rather of clay. Nitric acid is NOT used to clean concrete unless someone is interested in wasting a lot of money - hydrochloric acid is what's commonly used.

Electroplating solutions vary greatly depending on what is being plated. They typically do not require the addition of acid, although it is sometimes added to aid cleaning and adhesion. In fact, many plating solutions will NOT work with a low pH (acid).

Although its SOMETIMES a good idea to have an anode made of the same metal as that which youre plating, it is usually not necessary - the solution will just last longer when you do use one. Some metals, like copper, require very little current (3-6amps/sq.ft.) to plate. In fact plating iron with thin copper doesnt require any outside current. Other metals like Chromium, are very hard to plate brightly, and require lots of current (50-200amps/sq.ft.) and high temperatures (115F), and a sheet of LEAD is used as the anode! Usually, ferrous items should be copper plated before being chrome plated.

Silver chloride by itself is NOT used to plate silver - silver chloride does not dissolve in water. Silver cyanide or silver nitrate is more commonly used. The objects to be plated are NEVER placed on the anode, rather on the cathode.

Using table salt to lower resistance is STUPID because it will generate poisonous chlorine gas.

Too bad theres so much misinformation in these posts!

What are you trying to plate?