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1.5 volt aircraft glow plug supply

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True.
But I was thinking about the "seventh" glow plug all on its own. It would be OK if you had a dummy resistor of the correct value to balance the thing up. But then you have this odd resistor floating about in free air, getting very hot just like a glowplug. JimB

Good point but the dummy plug would only be dissipating 1.5V * 3A = 4.5W which would not be a big deal. The heat could be used to keep the dummy crew comfortable at altitude.:D

A chassis mount 10W or higher dissipation 500 mili Ohm (0R50) resistor should do the job nicely.
https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/423255.pdf

42253892.jpg




spec
 
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I Believe the heater is Only Required for Starting the Plane.
Not for Running it.

Back when I was YOUNGER, (50 years ago) guys had single Piston Planes, and the battery was Just for Starting
After that, the Ignition of gas, would keep the plugs Glowing.

When I was younger, 62 years ago, that was also the case. But my understanding is that the OP has a special requirement in that he wishes to energize all the plugs while the aircraft is in the air.

spec
 
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Sorry, Bad Day Yesterday, Can't Count Correctly and Can't Divide the voltage by Two.

Those are glaring errors of scale which everyone makes. They don't count. It is errors of principle and subtle errors that are the problem.:p

spec
 
Wow! Your collective response is very impressive thank you. It will take some time for my brain to assimilate
A couple of points.
For starting the engine the glow plugs need power, once the engine is running the platinum coil of the plugs is kept glowing by fuel burning, some catalytic thing going on too. No need for any electrical supply now. At low rpm the engine runs much cooler the plugs also. The radial lay out and fuel induction into the cylinders means the bottom two get more fuel than the rest, just the way it is with gravity.
Usually this is fine, but, every now and then, too cool too wet and the plugs can go out, 2 out of 7 stop, still got 5 producing power but the other two are now creating lots of drag. Again not too drastic if a successful landing follows the approach, not always the case. If need to go around for another approach, now it can get messy.... Bin bags and tears
The sopwith pup is a slow flying biplane and as such the time at low throttle, on approach is usually about 60 seconds.

It's also rather valuable and took over a year to build so I'm rather keen to keep it in one piece

most glow motors are started using an external battery pack made up from sub c nicd or now, nimh


This project is to be built into the plane, to be as spec mentioned, energised in the air.
It will also be used to start initially with the onboard battery being backed up by a much larger ground pack.

once engine is running power to the plugs would be switched by linking throttle to a suitable switch.

The on board battery can then be relatively small. 5 mins total on time is a good target.

Plan is to keep em all firing and prevent my heart from missing a few beats too!
Thank you all again
Cheers robin
 
Hy Sopwith,

There are quite a few model buffs on ETO- any chance of a picture of your aircraft with an indication of size and weight. Would the size (18mm diameter by 65mm long) and weight (48 grams) of a LiIon 18650 cell be an OK payload for the Sopwith model?

From what you say, I understand that the glow plugs will be turned on and off by radio control. This will require a high current switching element, either relay or MOSFET, and the associated control electronics.

I assume that currently there is no built in wiring to the plugs and that to start the engine you clip individual leads to the glow plugs and once the engine has started you remove the leads.

spec
 
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They call out:
• Glow driver battery (1.2V 6000–9000mAh Ni-MH battery required)

Glow Plug Starting Battery
The starting battery or on-board battery (whichever you prefer) should be a 1.2 V 6000–8000 mAh battery pack. We’ve had success building a pack of (6) 1300–1600 mAh NiCd (preferred) or NiMh (takes longer to cycle to full capacity) 1.2v battery cells wired in parallel so the total capacity is 7800–9600 mAh. The total draw on 7 glow plugs at 2.2–2.7 amps per plug is 15.4–18.9 amps. With a 7800–9600mAh battery pack, you can expect about 30 minutes of ‘on-time’. Once the engine is broken in, you will likely find that the engine idles and runs very well without an on-board battery.
Installing On-Board Glow Drivers Although Evolution Radial engines run just fine without constant glow heat applied, the use of on-board glow drivers allows for easier engine starting and can ensure adequate heat in the glow plugs at all times. This is particularly important on radial engines where oil collects in the lower cylinders. SonicTronics/McDaniel RC on-board glow systems work very well with Evolution radial engines. 7-cylinder applications: MCD477 9-cylinder applications: MCD479 We recommend installing the glow driver socket on the side of the cowl or fuselage and keeping the battery wires as short as possible. Longer wires between the battery pack and the glow drivers will reduce the amount of glow plug heat. Attach the ground wire to one of the engine backplate screws or the crankcase.

Looking at the fuel mix this reminds me of small aircraft engines when I was a kid. A battery was only used for start with the glow plug. Following start the things ran like a diesel, the battery was disconnected.

Ron
 
Hy Reloadron,

I am having trouble relating your post to the OP's post.

Glow driver battery (1.2V 6000–9000mAh Ni-MH battery required)
6Ah to 9Ah is a wide range; you can define the nominal duration by referring to the discharge graphs in the battery data sheet. The glow plugs require 1.5V at 3A not 1.2V. The OP is not asking about ground starting if that is what you are describing.

The starting battery or on-board battery (whichever you prefer) should be a 1.2 V 6000–8000 mAh battery pack.
The starting battery and on-board battery are two separate things. Once again, the plugs are 1.5V at 3A, not 1.2V at 2.4A. The former corresponds to only 2.88W instead of 4.5W which would greatly decrease the effectiveness of the plugs, especially when saturated with fuel/oil.

We’ve had success building a pack of (6) 1300–1600 mAh NiCd (preferred) or NiMh (takes longer to cycle to full capacity) 1.2v battery cells wired in parallel so the total capacity is 7800–9600 mAh.
All batteries behave differently, but the number of charge discharge cycles to reach absolute full capacity is little more than a very minor inconvenience. Besides which, NiCad batteries have some awkward characteristics of their own including the need to attain full capacity. They are also extremely heavy.

The total draw on 7 glow plugs at 2.2–2.7 amps per plug is 15.4–18.9 amps.
This is not correct. The plugs take 3A each as stated by the OP. 7 * 3A= 21A

With a 7800–9600mAh battery pack, you can expect about 30 minutes of ‘on-time’.
What specific batteries are you talking about? 7.8 Ah to 9.6Ah is a wide range.

Installing On-Board Glow Drivers Although Evolution Radial engines run just fine without constant glow heat applied, the use of on-board glow drivers allows for easier engine starting.
The on board plug power is not required for starting

SonicTronics/McDaniel RC on-board glow systems work very well with Evolution radial engines. 7-cylinder applications: MCD477 9-cylinder applications: MCD479.

So there is an off the shelf solution. What is the size, weight, and cost?

We recommend installing the glow driver socket on the side of the cowl or fuselage and keeping the battery wires as short as possible. Longer wires between the battery pack and the glow drivers will reduce the amount of glow plug heat. Attach the ground wire to one of the engine backplate screws or the crankcase.

Agree, but the critical item is the switch to turn the high current on. A relay to switch 12A at 3.6V or 21A at 1.5V in a small size with a reasonable coil drive does not exist, as far as I can tell. The alternative is to use MOSFETs as the switch which will take a bit of sorting. Heavy gauge, high temperature wire (silicon sleeve/silver coated multi strand conductors) will also be required. It would be better to fit the connector away from the prop for obvious reasons.
At the high currents required the connector choice will be critically important to ensure a low voltage drop and long life. The contact material, like any relay contact, will be a challenge, not only because of the high current, but also because of the low voltage. Being DC doesn't help either.

We’ve had success building a pack of (6) 1300–1600 mAh NiCd (preferred)
This is another Ah range. NiCd does not supply 1.5V. Also six 1.5Ah NiCad batteries (if that is what you are talking about) would be costly, bulky and, worse still, very heavy, bearing in mind that they would be inside the plane. Take an example. The weight of a 3Ah LiIon battery is 48 grams. The weight of a 3Ah NiCad battery is 86 grams, but you would need three NICad batteries to equal the energy of one LiIon battery, giving a total weight of 3* 86 grams= 258 grams ie 5.375 times heavier, and this is not mentioning the bulk which would be greater by a factor of 4.43.

Thoughout your post you do not say what specific batteries are being described. The battery model make a big difference to the performance and you seem to have missed the point that the OP wants a light weight, short duration (5min) on board system, not 30 minutes. But even so, LiIon would be a much better solution.

In general LiIon batteries are far superior to NiCad- much lighter, much less bulky, and easier to charge (no memory effect or reversal). they also hold their charge better. LiIon is also better for the environment. These are the reasons for the overwhelming move from NiCad to NiMH to LiIon. Although NiCad were better at high currents, the latest generation of LiIon can also source high currents, 35A in the case of one of the Sony LiIon 18650s, for example.

As I have mentioned already, there are a ton of fake batteries around which have a radically poorer performance than the genuine article, especially for high current applications like this. These fake batteries tend to have a sharply falling output voltage as they discharge and they also start with a high internal resistance.

One final point is that it is important to have a good charger with the correct voltage set points. Once again there are a load of rubbish chargers on the market. For good battery life and reasonable capacity it would be best to charge to 4.1V constant current with no topping charge and cutoff at 3.1V on discharge.

spec

PS: I am an aero-modeller too, but mainly sailplane. :)
The best scale model I ever saw was a from scratch B17 with four glow plug engines. The real thing flew over the sea front, where I live, last year at the annual air show.
 
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DSC02870.jpg


As an interested observer ...:). the plugs seem to have individual wires and must be bought together to the 1.5v supply somewhere (for starting ) in flight would a 7 pole rotary switch ( mechanical or electronic) work? just cycle (step ) through 1-7 connections. just need one 1.5v 3A battery .
 
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View attachment 99828

As an interested observer ...:). the plugs seem to have individual wires and must be bought together to the 1.5v supply somewhere (for starting ) in flight would a 7 pole rotary switch ( mechanical or electronic) work? just cycle (step ) through 1-7 connections. just need one 1.5v 3A battery .

Nice pic grandad,

Is that engine spark ignition or glow plug?

I had thought about a mux approach, but you would need to supply pulses of 13A at 6.5 V to each plug to provide an average of 4.5W to each plug, so a mux would only add complexity and it is not established how well the plugs would survive a pulse of that much current. Also a voltage of 6.5V would rule out a single LiIon battery.

A single LiIon battery would do the job fine using the two bank approach: simple, low-cost, compact, reliable.

On the other hand, are you suggesting another innovation where only one plug is turned on (1.5V, 3A) at one time. If so, and it meets the OP's requirements, a brilliant idea.:cool: If used with a two serial plug approach and single LI Ion cell, it would only mean a four way mux switching 3A. This would also have the advantage that two plugs would be energized for each pulse.

You could get really fancy and have the plug pairs turned on defined by radio control.

spec
 
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To charge the battery, a miniature alternator attached to the engine crank or turbine driven by the slip stream would also be a nice touch.:p

All you would need to do is make the prop hub magnetic and attach a coil to the crank case.

A starter motor could be the next development. :D

spec
 
OP said I think possibility of one or more cylinders could stop firing during flight and needed some glow current , Pilot would not know what cylinder ? so a quick cycle through each ( 7 wont do pairs ! ) would do . Weight of batteries etc could be a problem (Would like to see pic of OP aircraft , Sopwith camel ? )
 
OP said I think possibility of one or more cylinders could stop firing during flight and needed some glow current , Pilot would not know what cylinder ? so a quick cycle through each ( 7 wont do pairs ! ) would do . Weight of batteries etc could be a problem (Would like to see pic of OP aircraft , Sopwith camel ? )
Seven plugs will do pairs with dummy plug resistor as stated on previous post. Glow plugs take some time to heat, so too quick a scan won't do. I don't think 48 grams will be a problem.

It seems that the bottom plugs are the ones that mainly need the heat due to oiling, until the engine is run in that is.

spec
 
It seems that the bottom plugs are the ones that mainly need the heat due to oiling,
spec , that has answered a mystery I have had for 55 years , ... I built a Cesna 127 balsa and tissue , 36" wig span with a .049 glow , but to make it look like the real thing I mounted engine upside down ! , it was a really good looking model , second flight after some balancing etc in my uncles field , engine running well ( I think they lean out in flight) launched into wind , 2 ch 27mhz working OK , engine slowly lost power, wind took it back down hill , loosing altitude 20 ft > 2 ft , crashed headlong into field 5 barred iron gate....:arghh: the RC got built into a boat !
sopwith.. sorry to mess your thread..
 
spec , that has answered a mystery I have had for 55 years , ... I built a Cesna 127 balsa and tissue , 36" wig span with a .049 glow , but to make it look like the real thing I mounted engine upside down ! , it was a really good looking model , second flight after some balancing etc in my uncles field , engine running well ( I think they lean out in flight) launched into wind , 2 ch 27mhz working OK , engine slowly lost power, wind took it back down hill , loosing altitude 20 ft > 2 ft , crashed headlong into field 5 barred iron gate....:arghh: the RC got built into a boat !
sopwith.. sorry to mess your thread..

Hy grandad,

I miss things all the time. Actually the OP mentioned about the oiling lower plugs. :)

That is one of the hazards of models. When I was a nipper my Dad was stationed at RAF Seletar in Singapore. There was a big aero-modelling community and a club laid on by the RAF. Every month or so there was a control line shootout which I never missed- some of the airmen were top class.

I made numerous small models and then designed a four feet wingspan rubber duration model aircraft, complete with polyhedral pylon mounted wings and half folding prop which was hand carved out of a block of balsa wood. The design and build took around three months and consumed all my pocket money.

One fine sunny day, after setting the trim, I took my beautiful blue and yellow creation to the airfield to a meet. I wound up the rubber band and launched it. It flew beautifully up and up and the last I saw was it was heading over the sea towards the island of Sumatra.:banghead:

The B17 model that I mentioned had four vertically mounted glow plug engines but the owner could never get them balanced properly, so it never flew that well, but it looked and sounded great.

A little later an airman, posted back to Blighty, gave me a magnificent Keil Kraft Chief glider; it flew like a big bird and was my pride and joy, but when my Dad got posted back to Blighty, I also had to gave the Chief away.

**broken link removed**​

Funnily, enough I moved on to boats too, but with electric motors, also steam engines and impulse motors (pop-pop) powered by white pellets.

In the end I got an Albion Merlin 0.75cc diesel motor, but I only bench ran it. When we returned to the UK it just would not start, never mind how much ether I put in the fuel. In the end I gave it away.

spec
 
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I still have a scorch-mark on my workbench, courtesy of a big wire-wound resistor used many years go to drop the volts from a car battery charger to a glow-plug in a 0.049 engine under bench test. Never did get the engine to work well. It was always a pain to start. :(.
 
:p On my left hand index finger I still have about four scars from deep razor blade accidents while whittling balsa wood.

Those little engines did seem to be cantankerous, yet some of the guys could start them no problems. Heating the head with a small blowtorch would sometimes coax them to start, also adding more ether to the fuel.

spec
 
Never did get the engine to work well. It was always a pain to start. :(.
Seem to remember I had a wet 2v lead acid cell for the glow plug , had to watch the red and black crock clips didn't touch :oops: , my worst disaster was a large balsa Gypsy Moth powered by about 8 feet of 1/4" rubber , wound up with a hand drill ( egg whisk style) , 100 or so turns great,,,, My kid go chasing after it... "more turns Dad .." at 400+ little peg in tail holding, said elastic, shot from one end to other taking all the spars with it ... we nearly cried ....
 
Seem to remember I had a wet 2v lead acid cell for the glow plug , had to watch the red and black crock clips didn't touch :oops: , my worst disaster was a large balsa Gypsy Moth powered by about 8 feet of 1/4" rubber , wound up with a hand drill ( egg whisk style) , 100 or so turns great,,,, My kid go chasing after it... "more turns Dad .." at 400+ little peg in tail holding, said elastic, shot from one end to other taking all the spars with it ... we nearly cried ....
:arghh: bump
 
Hy Reloadron,

I am having trouble relating your post to the OP's post.


6Ah to 9Ah is a wide range; you can define the nominal duration by referring to the discharge graphs in the battery data sheet. The glow plugs require 1.5V at 3A not 1.2V. The OP is not asking about ground starting if that is what you are describing.


The starting battery and on-board battery are two separate things. Once again, the plugs are 1.5V at 3A, not 1.2V at 2.4A. The former corresponds to only 2.88W instead of 4.5W which would greatly decrease the effectiveness of the plugs, especially when saturated with fuel/oil.


All batteries behave differently, but the number of charge discharge cycles to reach absolute full capacity is little more than a very minor inconvenience. Besides which, NiCad batteries have some awkward characteristics of their own including the need to attain full capacity. They are also extremely heavy.


This is not correct. The plugs take 3A each as stated by the OP. 7 * 3A= 21A


What specific batteries are you talking about? 7.8 Ah to 9.6Ah is a wide range.

The on board plug power is not required for starting



So there is an off the shelf solution. What is the size, weight, and cost?



Agree, but the critical item is the switch to turn the high current on. A relay to switch 12A at 3.6V or 21A at 1.5V in a small size with a reasonable coil drive does not exist, as far as I can tell. The alternative is to use MOSFETs as the switch which will take a bit of sorting. Heavy gauge, high temperature wire (silicon sleeve/silver coated multi strand conductors) will also be required. It would be better to fit the connector away from the prop for obvious reasons.
At the high currents required the connector choice will be critically important to ensure a low voltage drop and long life. The contact material, like any relay contact, will be a challenge, not only because of the high current, but also because of the low voltage. Being DC doesn't help either.


This is another Ah range. NiCd does not supply 1.5V. Also six 1.5Ah NiCad batteries (if that is what you are talking about) would be costly, bulky and, worse still, very heavy, bearing in mind that they would be inside the plane. Take an example. The weight of a 3Ah LiIon battery is 48 grams. The weight of a 3Ah NiCad battery is 86 grams, but you would need three NICad batteries to equal the energy of one LiIon battery, giving a total weight of 3* 86 grams= 258 grams ie 5.375 times heavier, and this is not mentioning the bulk which would be greater by a factor of 4.43.

Thoughout your post you do not say what specific batteries are being described. The battery model make a big difference to the performance and you seem to have missed the point that the OP wants a light weight, short duration (5min) on board system, not 30 minutes. But even so, LiIon would be a much better solution.

In general LiIon batteries are far superior to NiCad- much lighter, much less bulky, and easier to charge (no memory effect or reversal). they also hold their charge better. LiIon is also better for the environment. These are the reasons for the overwhelming move from NiCad to NiMH to LiIon. Although NiCad were better at high currents, the latest generation of LiIon can also source high currents, 35A in the case of one of the Sony LiIon 18650s, for example.

As I have mentioned already, there are a ton of fake batteries around which have a radically poorer performance than the genuine article, especially for high current applications like this. These fake batteries tend to have a sharply falling output voltage as they discharge and they also start with a high internal resistance.

One final point is that it is important to have a good charger with the correct voltage set points. Once again there are a load of rubbish chargers on the market. For good battery life and reasonable capacity it would be best to charge to 4.1V constant current with no topping charge and cutoff at 3.1V on discharge.

spec

PS: I am an aero-modeller too, but mainly sailplane. :)
The best scale model I ever saw was a from scratch B17 with four glow plug engines. The real thing flew over the sea front, where I live, last year at the annual air show.

That was not me, I quoted the manual.

http://www.evolutionengines.com/ProdInfo/Files/EVO_Radial_Glow-Manual.pdf

Everything I quoted was from the manufacturer but I managed to forget to link it. That is why it shows in my post as a quote.

Ron
 
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