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What is this square shape LED light bulb called?

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The AAA ones leak too. Used to be a firm believer in the coppertop, but have since switched to the "bunny". No leaks with them so far.
Me too, even had them leak in the unopened packaging.
 
Cheaply made batteries that leak? The Chinese ones at The Dollar Store are leaking in their packages before being used.

I don't buy alkaline batteries anymore, instead use Ni-MH rechargeable.
Energizer Ni-MH batteries are made in Japan, maybe by Sanyo/Panasonic. Duracell Ni-MH batteries are made in China. They cost the same.
 
Cheaply made batteries that leak? The Chinese ones at The Dollar Store are leaking in their packages before being used.
Duracell alkaline, AA & AAA. Had more than a couple leak in their original packaging, whilst stored in a cool dark cupboard, along with ruined flashlights.
Switched to Energizer alkaline for a while, then more recently, Eneloop.
 
Since an Energizer Ni-MH cell is made in Japan and has all the features of an Eneloop then it might be a re-branded Eneloop.
 
I have white Eneloop AA BK-3MCCA min 1900 mAh, white AAA BK-4MCCA min 750 mAh, black AA BK-3HCCA min 2450 mAh, and some black AAA in the TV remote the wife is using, so I'm not about to try and find those specs.
How do they compare to your Energizer specs?
 
You cannot say mAh without saying how much current and how low you let the voltage drop to.
 
Just going off what it says on the tin and giving you something to compare to your Energizers.
I don't have any Energizers, only Eneloops.
 
You might want to think about getting 8 amps out of a D cell. Apparently you connected an ammeter right across the cell?

D Cell Data Sheet

The mini flashlights operate from 3 AAA cells. The voltage from 2 D cells will be marginal at the start and quickly be too low to illuminate the LEDs.

View attachment 124344

I was wondering how well this will work on 3V instead of 4.5V. I bought a package of white LEDs they light up on 3V, they are brighter on 4.5V, and 5V kills the LED. I need to make my own 3 D cell battery holder no one sells the old style flashlights anymore. I might get lucky and find 1 at a yard sale. If people think it is collectable they will want $50 for old junk flashlight. I have not checked yet I hope there is a PVC pipe the correct size to be a battery holder. I hate to buy 10ft of PVC just to get 6" for a battery holder. I am probably wasting my time but it is something to do besides TV & computer.

I had another idea that might be a fun project, build a joule thief circuit to run a 120v 9W LED light bulb on batteries. Light might stop working after 20 minutes. 3 D batteries it might last 30 min. Not really sure how low battery voltage needs to get before light bulb will no longer work. Just an idea to think about. It feels cold today 45 degree F is not bad but 20 mph wind makes it feel 30 degrees colder. I'm not a house person I am usually outside all day sun is bright it is still 45 degrees. I am going outside for a while anyway. When I get too cold outside I will be in the work shop doing something. After moving to different house I never did get wood stove hooks up in the shop it is fun to set next to the cast iron stove it feels so warm. Electric space heater is a lot less work these days but wood is more fun.


100_6557.JPG
 
Get a car or motorcycle 12V lead-acid battery and a 12v to 120V inverter used by campers to light the 120V LED bulbs. Oh, don't forget to add a cart to carry them.
 
I converted a lightbulb to run from a USB powerbank.

I opened up the lamp and found that the LEDs were 6V ones (actually 2 in series in each package), in a series string to make the voltage quite high. I put link wires so that they were in parallel, with half in reverse. Sadly, I could then only run half of the LEDs like that.

I used a boost circuit, modified to limit the current (See this post and the ones after it) to drive the LEDs and the supply for that came from the power bank.

It was simple, in that I didn't have to design the boost circuit to run from anything other than 5 V, and the charging and low-voltage cut-off was taken care of. It wasn't too inefficient, as there was no transformer needed, no boosting to higher voltages. However, it wasn't very efficient as it had two boost circuits (the one in the power bank and the constant current one, while a more optimised design could have boosted from the lithium battery directly to the LEDs.
 
I converted a lightbulb to run from a USB powerbank.

I opened up the lamp and found that the LEDs were 6V ones (actually 2 in series in each package), in a series string to make the voltage quite high. I put link wires so that they were in parallel, with half in reverse. Sadly, I could then only run half of the LEDs like that.

I used a boost circuit, modified to limit the current (See this post and the ones after it) to drive the LEDs and the supply for that came from the power bank.

It was simple, in that I didn't have to design the boost circuit to run from anything other than 5 V, and the charging and low-voltage cut-off was taken care of. It wasn't too inefficient, as there was no transformer needed, no boosting to higher voltages. However, it wasn't very efficient as it had two boost circuits (the one in the power bank and the constant current one, while a more optimised design could have boosted from the lithium battery directly to the LEDs.

That is interesting you found 2 series strings. Last summer I cut top off of a bad light bulb it had about 20 LEDs. I learned 1 LED was bad that is why it stopped working. I could turn on each LED 1 by 1 with jumper wires to 4.5V battery. I never did anything with it so I trashed it a few months ago. Now I wish I had saved it to experiment with.

The 4 bulbs in picture, 2 are bad. 1 light works good for 5 minutes then it becomes a strobe light. Turn it off 30 minutes then it works good again 5 minutes then becomes a strobe light again. I will save this bulb for a funny prank. LOL. The other bulb works good for 15 minutes then stops working. Turn if off for a while then it works good again for 15 minutes. Grandson refuses to learn how to turn off a light bulb so I will put this in his room. These 4 bulbs were bought from the same store but they are made by 3 different manufactures. Soon as I cut tops off I find out how many LEDs are inside and if bulbs are different inside.
 
The bulb I worked on didn't have two series strings. Before I modified it, it had a string of packaged LEDs in series, maybe 8 or 10, I forget. Each package had 2 LED chips inside, so each package had about a 6 V drop. The whole lot totalled 16 - 20 LEDs, so about 50 - 65 V.

By linking the packages differently, I put 4 or 5 in parallel, but I was stuck with the 2 LED chips in series within each package, so I had to work with 6 V.
 
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