# What is RG-6 & RG-11 coax cable connector hole diameter dimensions?

#### gary350

##### Well-Known Member
I have a 500 ft roll of coax cable I need to make some antenna cables. I have not bought connectors in 20 years. All my connector have a 1/8" hole for the cable. With the black outside removed the white color inside cable is 5/32" diameter I need a cable connector with a 5/32" hole?

What is the hole size for RG-6 and RG-11 ?

I have look at coax cable connectors for almost 2 hours none tell what size the hole diameter is?

All these connectors in this picture have a 1/8" hole through the connector my cable will not go through the hole.

I have several old coax cables they all use connectors with 5/32" diameter holes.

I found several places that sell RG-6 but have no clue if they fit my coax cable. ???

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#### KeepItSimpleStupid

##### Well-Known Member
but in the UK it's VERY highly recommended to use satellite coax (double screened) for terrestrial TV,
That's the RG-6 Quad shield. Who knows why they call it quad? Maybe because Triax was already taken?

So, it's a foil and braided shield: http://cdn2.hubspot.net/hubfs/585555/Product-Page-Assets/Copper/Coax-Cables/rg6-dual-non-plenum.pdf

Differences: https://systoncable.com/whats-difference-rg6-vs-rg6q/

My friends gave me a roll 500' of RG6QS copper clad. They used it in their satelite TV business. I don;t have too much left.

#### KeepItSimpleStupid

##### Well-Known Member
How to you like the 8200, that's the HD8200U, right?

Shown is an issue I have with the 8200. This is one end. What's taped to the left side is the original rivet. Note the corrosion.

I looked at some info on areal construction and I thought that that connection shouldn't be there Because of all of the corrosion, it's a poor connection anyway, right?

So, I added the black heat shrink to insulate the boom. Weingard claims that the connection improves the rear rejection.

My antenna actually fell and broke in half and I patched it together. I also changed the longest rods because they were too flimsy.

I also used screws and nylock nuts to tighten any loose reflectors.

I think, for your purpose, you can turn the matching transformer around if you have issues with phasing with your other antennsa

#### gary350

##### Well-Known Member
Factory antennas are designed to be made fast & low cost on an assembly line so they pack inside a box for easy shipping to customers. They don't always use the best parts & they are not always the best design. It looks to me like you could put 2 or 3 flat fender washers in those spaces then tighten bolts it will hold together much tighter and not bend or damage the other parts. My WG8200u works ok but not much better than my home built improved CM4228. I like to buy and test antennas to see if they work better than what I already have. Sometimes improvements can be made to factory antennas to make they work better. My homebuilt CM4228 works very well in VHF & UHF much better that the factory original CM4228. I have a low VHF channel reception is better on the WG8200 than the CM4228 but they both work for that station. I decided to use my CM4228 for real channel 66 high UHF it works better than WG8200u. I have a TV show I like to watch every Saturday night 8 pm real channel 66 the WG8200 fades in/out sometimes signal loss over & over gets very irritating & hard to watch. The CM4228 has NO lost signal on real channel 66. Each of those 2 antennas have their own advantages. I have not tried to make improvements to the WG8200 if its not broken don't fix it.

We live in Tornado alley the WG8200 was on the north side of our house & I moved it to the west side of house. Most of our 75 mph wind comes from the south, house was blocking the wind but not anymore. I have to wait and see how the antenna holds up to 75 mph wind March, April & May. We had 90 mph wind last spring it blew down 5 trees, 6 trees were leaning at a 70° angle, some trees had lots of broken limbs, end of summer 21 trees were dead or dying so I cut them all down. Trees are good wind blockers to protect the house.

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#### KeepItSimpleStupid

##### Well-Known Member
It looks to me like you could put 2 or 3 flat fender washers in those spaces then tighten bolt
I probably did. They were large stainless metric screws with nylock nuts. Look for corrosion around those back rivets.

Here is my home made mount:

The "Kink" in the antenna has been removed. It's made with the gold annodized Unistrut, The stainless chimney cap doesn;t help. if i had the chance, I'd make the upper mast out of fiberglass.

There are 3 "guy wires" made with Phillystran to a TB-105 support bearing (No longer available). Wierd shackles and rope thimbles were used at the thrust bearing. The 3 turnbuckles are 18-8 stainless. Two are near the roof. There's two roof penetrations for eyebolts for the guy wires. The eye bolts were sealed to the shingles with two large sealing washers and silicone.

The cable clamps are stainless. There are rubber caps on the ends of the wire. There is a cap on the mast. there is a white cap on the perpendicular Unistrut. The lead-in iis siamese RG-6. The main mast is EMT tubing. There are 4 bolts holding it to the house and they go through the edge of a 2 x4, I think. I did some re-enforcing with the metal lumber brackets. I don't remember what the inside looks like.

The rotator is an Egle Aspen ROTR-100 (NLA, but really cool). There is a wire braid around the rotator connecting the upper and lower mast. The studs were removed and replaced with 18-8 threaded rod. Two clamps were used to be able to align the thrust bering and antenna. If I could use 18-8 Stainless, I did. I should have had the rotor brackets powder coated. i could not replace the OEM brackets that attach the rotor to the antenna mast. Anti-seize compound was used on everything.
I
There are two eyehooks. One may have been used for lifting. A carabeiner couuld be hooked from the roof to the eye hook.

I had help fastening the horizontals to the wall. I was inside the attic. The siding is aluminum.

There's a Channel master CM7777 pre-amp.

To help install the antenna, a two-piece collar is clamped to the mast just under the antenna. When the guy came to trim the tree with a bucket truck, he was able to "pluck" the antenna off the mast and give it to me. I made some changes while the crew was trimming the tree. When he left, he plopped it back on.

The one thing I did not do right was putting in a ground rod for the antenna. Under the antenna is a driveway and a footer that could be cracked in a basement. There is a porch to the right. A ground rod would get really messy. There is a ground connection that will keep static off the mast,

#### gary350

##### Well-Known Member
I got rid of my CM7777 pre-amp it did not work well at all. My WG8200 antenna is aimed at 10 acres of 65 foot tall trees. When I lived at the other house pre-amp was not needed there were no trees blocking the very good signal. Now I have a Radio Shack pre-amp it has a gain control & FM trap. My son lives 7 miles farther away from the transmitters his antenna is on the 2nd floor in a bedroom facing the glass window he has a pre-amp and gets about 10 more channels than me. I need a 75 foot tall tower to get antenna above that forest of trees but I can't complain I am getting a very good signal.

#### KeepItSimpleStupid

##### Well-Known Member
I got rid of my CM7777 pre-amp it did not work well at all.
I did some measurements and I didn't like it either. I'm going to try this https://kitztech.com/KT200.html The Kitztech KT200.

There are so many versions of the Channelmaster Amp with the same model number/ Stupid.

#### Nigel Goodwin

##### Super Moderator
I did some measurements and I didn't like it either. I'm going to try this https://kitztech.com/KT200.html The Kitztech KT200.

There are so many versions of the Channelmaster Amp with the same model number/ Stupid.
You need to be aware of what amplifiers actually do, and what they are good for.

At UHF/VHF the limiting factor is noise from the front end of the receiver - where at lower frequencies it's external noise.

As always, we're talking 'signal to noise ratio', so the aerial picks up the signal, loses most of it running down the cable, and is then swamped by the noise of the receiver.

To improve this you can fit a mast head amplifier - the front end of this amplifier then becomes the limiting factor, rather than the receiver - and because it's mounted VERY close to the aerial (probably ON the aerial) the incoming signal doesn't get lost as much running down the cable. This amplifier increases the signal strength, so that when it gets down the cable to the receiver there's much more of it.

Basically what you're doing is 'moving' the front end of the receiver close to the aerial - there's little or no point fitting an amplifier near the TV itself - as many customers who don't have a clue do.

#### KeepItSimpleStupid

##### Well-Known Member
yep. The CM-7777: https://www.summitsource.com/Channe...TV-Amp-Aerial-Booster-Part-CM-7777-P7765.aspx

The problem is, I have another amp (0-18 db) with an attenuator within 30' of the CM, then about 75' to the distribution point. Currenty, there is one splitter to two 40' lengths of cable. All RG6QS. I was distributing to 8-12 locations. i should not need that second amp.
I think the signal level is 80dbmv at the distribution point which is where it should be. I don't remember what 0-18db amp is set at.

It's a VHF/UHF system. Single feed from the antenna. The other coax runs the rotator.

#### gary350

##### Well-Known Member
Which antenna pre-amp is best? I need to buy another pre-amp.

My son has a Winegard LNA-200 Boost XT pre-amp he receives about 10 more channels than me and he is 7 miles farther away from the transmitters. His antenna is identical to mine I built it. He has it on the 2nd floor about 20 ft high up inside the bedroom standing in front of the window aimed at the transmitters. My 2 antennas are aimed at a forest of 60 ft tall trees I need a 70 ft tall tower but I am receiving a very good signal for the 60

channels that I receive. This is a picture of my sons antenna I built tripod legs for his antenna so it will stand in front of the window. He gets a good signal through the glass window.

The only difference between his antenna and my antenna is, I have cross over wires connecting the two 4 bays together with 1 balun at the center of the cross over wire, his antenna has a balun on each 4 bay with 18" long coax on each 4 bay to a T combiner to the TV.

#### KeepItSimpleStupid

##### Well-Known Member
Which antenna pre-amp is best? I need to buy another pre-amp.
I bough the Kitztech preamp -200 because of the ultra-low noise figure. i was going to buy the -500, but I was talked out of it by kitztech because it does not have low VHF performance.

I've neither mounted or tried it. By tried, I mean at least measure it's gain.

I plan to install a Blonder_Tongue_BIDA-5800 75A-43 distribution amplifier with the same set-up I had before using four 24db 4-ways taps.

After I do that, I get a custom filter built because the VHF frequencies are much stronger than the UHF,

I don't have a cell tower nearby. There is a couple towers about 3-4 miles away,

I don't know if I have to be concerned about LTE interference, I don't see the characteristic pattern of periodic minimal pixelizations.

#### gary350

##### Well-Known Member
I took 3 balun apart, 300 ohm to 75 ohm, circuit is the same in 2 of them for the exception of 2 capacitors in 1 of them.

WHAT is the NAME of the ferrite device shaped like number 8 with 2 holes???

I never realized the backs of the balun snaps off so easy then snaps on.

Circuit drawing same as shortwave radio handbook with 2 turns of wire on 1 balun & 3 turns of wire on balun with capacitor, turns on all 4 wires.

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