BibaResto
Member
To repeat from original thread, I own (but will be selling soon) a Crossfire Ltd. (XF) which has the electronic spoiler. I've bought a top of the line XF which has a supercharger + larger brakes; etc; but has a but-ugly bolt on spoiler; and yes, the eBay spoiler I've bought will bolt right in in its place; there is NO spoiler info in the BCM; meaning I'm on my own electrifying the spoiler.
I've given up on having a 'unit' that automatically opens the spoiler at 63 mph, then closes on its own. I turned to trying a 535T Window Automation System with a single SPDT relay (schematic was in the manual). At rest it would turn about an 1/8th turn; stop; hold for 6-8 seconds; another 1/8th turn; etc.; no movement reversing/closing. So that's out.
When i hook up the wires directly from a new 12V battery it goes up quickly (5 or so seconds); then reversing the wires it quickly closes.
I'll add that though there are limit switches built into the spoiler, I don't want to complicate the 'process' but instead use thermal switches like on most window winders. You can ask for a wiring diagram but it's easier to just tell you: There are two wires to the motor with the + at rest. [The separate wiring loom for the limit switches has three wires going in with the common black wiring ground wires splitting off for each of the limit switches. I'll add that though the wires are in DIN, the limit switches appear to have 20 gauge].
Also keep in mind that the wiring from the switch to the spoiler will be roughly 13'. I plan on splicing 16 gauge wire to the existing 16 gauge 3' wiring loom with connector for the motor. I'll use the + from the nearby cigarette lighter and wing it for the ground.
So please add the thermal switches and any diodes, or? I'm assuming it will use a Spal type switch and SPDT relays. I'll need to know the specific number/letter for every wiring connection along with what specific type of diode if used along with the type and brand of the thermal switches. IF a two wire (20 gauge) can be made to work, that would be perfect, but fine with whatever (not too large nor miniature including depth) of switch is best.
I'm used to using vintage type of wiring loom schematics, not the latter type.
I'll be happy to pay anyone providing they are 100% sure the outcome works .
Have I forgotten anything?