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transfo distance from filtering capacitor important or not? (pic)

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wip

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My transformer is really close to my filtering capacitors, is this bad? The transfo electro-magnetic field will get induce in the capacitors affecting the audio quality (hum or other artifacts)?

transfo_cap.jpg


Thanks!
 
I don't question about your circuit or how it work, I only gives a straigth answer:
The transformer will not induce any current to a nearby PCB board by itself, given that the magnetic core is not broken (it need to be a complete magnetic circuit) and that the transformer does not run overloaded (I assume that a heavily overloaded where the core is way beyond saturated - the magnetic field may grow outside the core - but it will probably burn before that happens).
That is just me trying to say - it won't.

However - making an amplifier with a waste capacitor bank after the rectifier - wich is what I think you've done by looking at the picture, raises an issue - high current spikes will occur at transformer and rectifier. This might cause the transformer itself to make more noise/hum and the diodes might break down.
It could help to add an inductor right after the rectifier, but that might cause high voltage spikes when the current spike goes zero.
 
I hope you put some sort of bus bar for power and ground.
 
1. Depending on the average current for the application, you might need to add a heatsink to the bridge.

2. Can we see a photo of the bottom side?

3. For my first vacuum tube project I didn't have a metal chassis, so I mounted everything on a piece of Masonite. LOVE the wooden circuit board.

ak
 
...For my first vacuum tube project I didn't have a metal chassis, so I mounted everything on a piece of Masonite. LOVE the wooden circuit board.

When I built my hamshack/electronic lab, I put down a laminate floor. I had a bunch of scraps left over. I find that it is ideal for "breadboards", and other electronics project uses. It makes nifty enclosures, too.
 
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Wip.... I admire the recycling ! think I would have got some copper or brass strip and done some bus bars connecting the caps, etc... as Mike B suggested...
Edit.....perhaps also get one of those crinkly bean tins and make a heat sink for the rectifier ... as previous post :)
 
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You could also use bare copper PCB cut into long strips, and solder directly to the strip, and screw the strip to your wood.
By Bus bar I mean something like in the image below (sorry for poor image, I'm no graphics artist) :)
The idea is to lessen the V=IR effects of the wire in your power and ground. Especially during peak currents through the large capacitors. The bus bar will provide an overall smaller impedance, and decrease voltage drops between nodes. This will reduce ground and power noise along with better overall noise immunity. This would be especially important in audio applications.BussBar.jpg
 
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