Tantalum or Monolithic

[Frazelled]

Hi team, need some help identifying a capacitor (x3). They are the 3 blue devices in the image. Initially thought they were tantalums but the only detail on the

side is 104, no other detail, like a polarity is evident. For info, the PCB is from an old (at least 27 years) Clearwater QC330T Pool Chlorinator. Thanks in advance. Frazelled​

 

[JimB]

Sounds like a 0.1uF ceramic type.
JimB

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Nothing like tantalums, it's just a standard 0.1uF ceramic capacitor as JimB suggested.

 

[crutschow]

Why are you concerned about those capacitors?

 

[Frazelled]

Thanks
JimB
Nigel
crutschow, not concerned about them specifically, just trying to identify parts. I'm no electronics guru (may be obvious) did my training in 82/84 and really headed off in a different direction once finished. Anyway, the board, as stated it's out of a pool chlorinator. It's cooking the bridge rectifier. It appears to be operating OK but turning it up to anything above approx. 25% output drives the input (output from the transformer) to the rectifier too hard and destroys it. Heat sink and applied compound is fine (replaced). It really is a basic setup, consists of the control board (picture provided), the transformer, bridge rectifier and the cell. The cell has been replaced so that's not it. Anyway, with the age of the unit being close on 30, and it operates every day for up to 8 hours at a time, and at over $800 AUD to replace it, I'm just eliminating the easiest and obvious bits.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Do you have a schematic?, however as it works OK until you turn the output up above a certain point it sounds far more likely the fault is in the load rather than on the board. What exactly is the load?, and how is the output varied - is it PWM?.