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sound dependent light..??

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havnt started making yet, waiting for rest of parts to come with my delivery from rapid...
will this veroboard layout be ok for the circuit you provided?
Thanks, Mike
 

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i have added an extra LED, i am using bright blu ones
 
The parts are much too far apart. Why isn't the LM386 IC on the Veroboard with the rest of the parts? It will probably oscillate at a very high frequency unless all grounded parts are connected directly to the ground pin 4 of it.
Also the 470uF power supply filter cap needs to be connected directly to the supply pin 6. The 0.05uF cap needs to be connected directly to its output pin 5.
When I say "directly", I mean without the inductance and resistance of wire longer than about 1cm.
I design my Veroboard layouts with the strips horizontal like on the schematic. Then parts mount beside the IC on its strips with extremely short wiring and tight spacing.

Like most ICs, the LM386 has a bandwidth of at least 300kHz so the pcb layout and wiring must be treated the same as an RF circuit.
You should cut the Veroboard strips with a drill-bit or proper tool so that there isn't any extra length causing capacitive-coupling to adjacent strips.

When you wire LEDs in parallel, probably only one will light brightly and the other will be dim. LEDs all have a slightly different voltage and the one with the lowest voltage requirement will be bright, and the other won't get its required voltage and will be dim.
If you are lucky and their voltage requirements are the same, then they will share the available current and therefore each will not be as bright as just one.
 
audioguru said:
I don't think your large, complicated and expensive circuit would light the LEDs on bass sounds very well.
This small, simple and inexpensive circuit will:

If I were to use only one LED on this circuit to light on only one half of the signal, would I need a diode (non-LED) to replace the second LED to let the other half of the wave flow? Or could I just nuke one of the LEDs?
 
audioguru said:
The parts are much too far apart. Why isn't the LM386 IC on the Veroboard with the rest of the parts? It will probably oscillate at a very high frequency unless all grounded parts are connected directly to the ground pin 4 of it.
Also the 470uF power supply filter cap needs to be connected directly to the supply pin 6. The 0.05uF cap needs to be connected directly to its output pin 5.
When I say "directly", I mean without the inductance and resistance of wire longer than about 1cm.
I design my Veroboard layouts with the strips horizontal like on the schematic. Then parts mount beside the IC on its strips with extremely short wiring and tight spacing.

Like most ICs, the LM386 has a bandwidth of at least 300kHz so the pcb layout and wiring must be treated the same as an RF circuit.
You should cut the Veroboard strips with a drill-bit or proper tool so that there isn't any extra length causing capacitive-coupling to adjacent strips.

When you wire LEDs in parallel, probably only one will light brightly and the other will be dim. LEDs all have a slightly different voltage and the one with the lowest voltage requirement will be bright, and the other won't get its required voltage and will be dim.
If you are lucky and their voltage requirements are the same, then they will share the available current and therefore each will not be as bright as just one.
i was going to have the chip on a seperate veroboard because otherwise it confuses me with all the pins and everything needs moving around. It is spaced out because i don't like soldering things close together until i get a new soldering iron tip.


If I were to use only one LED on this circuit to light on only one half of the signal, would I need a diode (non-LED) to replace the second LED to let the other half of the wave flow? Or could I just nuke one of the LEDs?
You would just use a stronger resistor i think.
oh no, mabe not, those LED's are in parellel so i think you would just take away one LED.
Are you making this project too? if so are you using PCB or stripboard?
 
Like most ICs, the LM386 has a bandwidth of at least 300kHz so the pcb layout and wiring must be treated the same as an RF circuit.
You should cut the Veroboard strips with a drill-bit or proper tool so that there isn't any extra length causing capacitive-coupling to adjacent strips.
im sorry, i dont understand, do you mean to cut the unused copper tracks or something?

And the 470uF cap is connected straight to pin 2 from the power and the 0.05uF is direct aswell.

Sorry if i've misread your points.
 
Hi Joel,
If you use a single LED in my circuit, the output cap charges through the LED on the very 1st half-cycle, then remains charged and doesn't have charging current through the LED anymore. The 2nd LED discharges the cap.

The 2nd LED could be replaced by a bunch of diodes in series to fix it, or the LM386 can be biased so that its output is uni-directional like this:
 

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Hi MadMike and Hi again Joel,
As I said before, the wiring must be extremely short with the parts placed beside the LM386 on the same short strips of the Veroboard. Then if the Veroboard is too big, the extra length of each strip must be cut so that the strips have low capacitance from each other.
I have an example of a Veroboard layout for my 2nd schematic that uses only a single LED. The strips are cut under the IC and other spots with a drill-bit and are marked on my layout with a red X:
 

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so i could just do the same with my circuit? and why a drill piece to cut the track? why not a knife? :?:
 
apart from the long wires and tracks and the chip off the board, is everything ok?
 
madmikejt12 said:
apart from the long wires and tracks and the chip off the board, is everything ok?

I've no ideas, but as you need to start from scratch with the IC on the board, there's no point checking it.

I would suggest you buy a 'spot face cutter' for cutting your veroboard tracks, it's rather like a drill with a handle, and it makes it SO much easier. It's unusual to cut the tracks with a knife, it's only done in very rare cases where you need to cut between tracks.
 
ok, thanks for the help, i will try it on the breadboard first to see if it works and then transfer onto stripboard.
 
ok. The only reason i said 3 was because i acidently drilled 3 holes in the box instead of 2 :oops:

i will set it up to use 2 and try it with 3 if it works (on the breadboard) my components came today so i will start on it later after i have been out, came in and done my homework lol
 
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