Continue to Site

Welcome to our site!

Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

  • Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

Single phase electric motor testing

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hi All

I have a single phase electric motor which I am testing as I suspect one of the windings has gone (exhausted all other possibilities). It got a start and run capacitor, a centrifugal switch, and a thermal overload switch. Its from a 3hp air compressor. It starts up and run for about 3-4 seconds pretty slowly and then blows the fuse in the power plug (UK plugs have 13a fuses in them). I've tested the amperage draw with a clamp ammeter and it seems to remain at around 45A whilst it runs for these 3-4 seconds. Normally, when I test with a clamp ammeter on these things they drop from 45A to about 9A within a second or so as the start winding is deactivated by the centrifugal switch. I suspected the centrifugal switch was not working so I uncoupled the piston assembly from the motor and spun it up with a pneumatic impact driver and watched the meter go from 001Ω to Open Circuit - so the centrifugal switch is definitely working.

If you see my attachments below I've done some testing on the windings with my multimeter, set to Resistance Ω (Auto Range) setting.

From what I understand the blue wires are the start winding and the red is the run winding. Haven't a clue what the black wire is though, as all literature I've read on these types of motors never show a 'common' wire? Would love to know what it is and how its integrated into the windings.

Anyhow, here are my test results:

R1 to R2 = 001.6Ω
B1 to B2 = 000.0Ω

Bk to R1 = 001.7Ω
Bk to R2 - 001.1Ω

Bk to B1 = Open Circuit
Bk to B2 = Open Circuit

R1 - B1 = Open Circuit
R1 - B2 = Open Circuit
B1 - R2 = Open Circuit
B2 - R2 = Open Circuit

Any help much appreciated - I don't know how to determine whats wrong from the readings.
F.
 
What I suspect you have is the low resistance run winding R1,R2, and you may have a split start run winding that the cap and centrifugal SW uses one of the sections, the other is in circuit all the time as a start/run winding.
The odd readings on the start winding (0) may indicate a shorted winding.
May require a strip down to confirm dark/burnt/ shorted winding section.
Max.
 
What I suspect you have is the low resistance run winding R1,R2, and you may have a split start run winding that the cap and centrifugal SW uses one of the sections, the other is in circuit all the time as a start/run winding.
The odd readings on the start winding (0) may indicate a shorted winding.
May require a strip down to confirm dark/burnt/ shorted winding section.
Max.

Thanks for your input Max.
There is nothing obviously burned out, I've a look around inside already.
I do have another identical compressor with motor, and that one works perfectly - so I decided to take the readings on the known good motor, and I've posted them below - does this perhaps prove anything? Only two of the readings were different, BK - R1 and Bk to R2
 
Aha, The capacitors on Chinese motors are Notorious for failure.
Often within a year of operation.
If you replace, use AC motor rated versions and NOT Chinese origin.
Max.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

New Articles From Microcontroller Tips

Back
Top