Fairchild,
You're welcome on the post reply btw.
Thanks for your reply as well.
Couple of things here first -
As for your Tek 453 scope there - seeings it has no VAC tubes inside - that looks like to be a good thing, as it now looks like yours may well have been a later model towards the end run of those models.
You can contact Tektronix CS directly, and see if they have a downloadable Users Manual, and/or a Main Service/Calibration Manual for it. That or else go online and see what you can find there.
Sorry to hear that it had no probes with it, but I'm sure you can find those online say at Ebay for instance - fairly cheap I would think. You'll definitely need at least (1) X1 probe to start out with, so you can at least do a simple probe CAL prior to using the scope. You'll see a PROBE ADJUST test point right next to (or very close by) where you connect the probe's BNC connector. I'd just start out with a basic X1 probe to start with, unless you can find a good X10 probe for cheap.
The standard twist-lock BNC probe connectors should all be the same as my older X1 probes use the same BNC connectors as do the newer X10 probes so I think you are safe there as for that part of it.
If someone out there has changed over that part of the probe connection scheme then I'd stay far away from those, so make sure you know in advance what you are looking for first of all. If it's a Tektronix brand probe you should be good to go. Any other brand name then I can't swear by it. Buyer beware I always say!
I'd just make sure that the probe(s) you buy used don't have cables that are KINKED in any way or form, or frayed as from abuse! AND make damn sure that the center pin on the BNC connector isn't broken off or bent!! You may even want to do a continuity test on the cables to make sure the shield and center wire "point to point" are good and making a solid contact with NO BREAKS!!
My Tek 2215 scope - that I bought in the early 80's - came complete with 2 of everything - fortunately for me - (except for the service manuals that is) - as I bought it brand new when I worked in-house at a hospital as a BMET II repair Tech. Fortunately for me at that time the service manuals that came with it were very well written and included everything! Schematics - Calibration procedures - great T/S section right down to the very component level! Can't beat that part !
I even managed to keep a few extra older style Tek scope probes (and misc probe accessories) from a couple past industrial type Tech jobs, but they are only a X1 and not a X10. I currently use the 2 original Tek X10 probes myself, as that way I can look at very small signals without any loading effects to the circuit under test.
When I worked at that hospital Bio-Med Tech job I also made up various scope test leads for less critical aps where loading is no biggie, and where I'm just looking for raw AC/DC signals and HI/LO logic voltage levels.
Sorry I can't give you any more scope training help, or advice other than what I already have prior, or any help on using yours there, but I'm sure if you check out your public library where you live they are sure to have a book or two on how to use one. It's somewhat of an art after you learn the nuts and bolts basics. Kinda like that with using a DVM properly for the 1st time.
Speaking of which -
That's a better then average BK 2407A DVM you have there btw! Not bad looking either from looking at the link you included and checking out the Specs on it. Not bad at all for the ~ $58 price tag I saw online. Not sure what you paid for it ?, but sometimes far less I'm sure if someone online or locally had a great deal going on it at the time!
Accuracy could be a lot better I would think, but I guess you don't get much for $60 these days, even though BK has some pretty good test equipment out there. I don't care for the autoranging feature myself, and neither of my 2 DVM's (Wavetek 85XT & Meterman/Beckman 320B) have that feature - as I like to switch functions and ranges manually myself.
I noticed that your meter there has a CONTINUITY CHECK
Buzzer Threshold of < 320 Ω which seems a bit high for my purposes - as compared to my 2 meters, which are at < 75 & 80 Ω respectively using a lower range base overall. Of course your meter has higher overall range base using 320 instead of 200 like both my DVM's. Yours is more of an industrial type, as some even use 400 as a base. Of course when you can see the LCD display while doing an Ω check who cares - right! Sometimes my longer meter leads are stretched out doing Continuity checks and hearing that buzzer quicker is a nice feature. Oh well - to each their own.
My CAP tester is an older LED display BK model btw, and I got it free when someone was trashing out some storage lockers. Had the original box and all paperwork too! I added (4) 7.2 volt rechargeable Ni-MH batts that I had lying around, as rechargeables are all that I ever use in all my batt driven devices around the house. I also added a perfectly matched spare Casio brand 6-volt @ 200ma AC/DC wall adapter as for the external DC power source to recharge the new batt pack that I added, as no doubt BK would want an arm and a leg for their version I'm sure. Just had to add a matching mini-jack plug to that Casio wall adapter and it was good to go - worked perfectly!
Sorry I can't help you out further on the scope part.
It looks like you have a game plan figured out in so far as for the CAPS R&R part. Seeings that there are only 4-5 CAPS in ? there, and that they are fairly cheap to replace - I guess that is your next step. If that doesn't produce a fix then I guess I'll hear a OH **** next….hahaha
Next step would probably be to get that scope fired up after taking a crash course in running one up and using it.
Update me on your findings and progress even though I can't see what you are working on there. Some digital PIX would be nice, but I'll leave that up to you.
Stay in touch and best regards,
Frank