You definitely need the Open drain inverter. Here is one in a PDIP package.
You need pull up resistors for the encoder and 0.1 to 0.01 uf ceramic bypass caps for all of the IC's. You might need or could use a couple of LEDs and pull up resistrs for troubleshooting. R <= 5-Vf which is about 1.8 to 3.1 depending on LED color. W > I*I*R; Generally you can use about 10 mA for the LED (10e-3 Amps.
Remember, I suggested using two of the inverters. One to drive the IR Mimic and one to drive an LED. With the extra 2 gates available you cap put it on the encoder outputs. Use a couple of colors. The LED's should give you instant satisfaction.
You need some sort of breadboard, and possibly some connectors and some headers to maybe put everything together. If you have room, you can puta coupl of tact switches on the board too. You can use these for debugging and leave them in place.
Since this is a car environment, you have to pay attention to the 5V supply. I don't know what your using, but say it used a 12 V input. It would be best to AT LEAST use an 18 V TVS diode (either bidirectional or Unidirectional) on the 12V input. And use a 1N5404 (?) 3A,200 PRV reversed biased in the imput to protect against transients.
Connectors are always trouble to select and 99% of them require some sort of crimpers. Some cases have posts to mount the PCB.
Mechanically, you will need a case and spacers.
Wire wrap wire can be used to make some of the connections. Machine pin sockets are you best bet, although for automotive no sockets at all is the absolute best.
Just make it possible to add a J-K flip flop and reset circuit like a schmidt trigger inverter, so a couple of IC's.
You can try a solderless breadboard first if you want. A ribbon cable might be useful as well even for multiple colored wires. Digikey should have them in whatever length you need. Breadboards can have no copper (I don;t think this is appropriate), pad per hole (both round and square) and strip board. This consists of strips of copper that you cut. You may need some solid wire and or tinned uninsulated wire for jumpers.
Lay it out the connections on paper first. before trying to transfer it to a PCB.
So, anyway, one to three parallel projects:
1) The power supply and protections.
2) The encoder to UP/DOWN interface. Blink UP Down LED's.
3) Get the IR MIMIC to work with push buttons first.
www.digikey.com and
www.mouser.com are both good places to order parts from.
www.newark.com and
www.alliedelec.com and Jameco are others.
Soldering iron and solder. The ROHS solder is higher temperature. 60/40 lead/tin has different solidus and solidus temperatures, so it melts and solidifies at different temperatures. The leaded solder 63/37 is best to use for surface mount stuff.
This
**broken link removed** might work for you. and these
**broken link removed**
They could help mount the IR mimic on a main board.
If you need a connector crimped, I'd be happy to do it for you if I can. (East coast US)
Lots of little stuff goes into any small project.
Any questions, ask.