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Professionally printed

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beakie

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I want to send a board I have designed to BatchPCB.com

If you don't mind I have some questions...

1) How do I make the gerber files? I tried and I failed... the site wouldn't accept them.

2) When I make homemade PCB I avoid joining components directly to the top layer (I use a via) because its hard to solder the top layer. Am I correct in thinking this (and vias) won't be a problem. The printing process will deal with them.

3) What do I need to do about solder resist etc... Do I need a special layer or something for this?

Thanks

G :)
 
How do I make the gerber files? I tried and I failed... the site wouldn't accept them.

OK, so I managed to get the files accepted... I renamed the .dri file to .drill.

It hasn't worked though. I can only see the drill bit now and it claims the board is only 1 square inch but its actually 2x2 inches.
 
What program are you using to make the gerbers?

How many layers is the board?
 
1) How do I make the gerber files? I tried and I failed... the site wouldn't accept them.

The software you're using should have the instructions detailed.

2) When I make homemade PCB I avoid joining components directly to the top layer (I use a via) because its hard to solder the top layer. Am I correct in thinking this (and vias) won't be a problem. The printing process will deal with them.

The poured copper will sink much of the heat from the source. Avoid using vias and instead use thermal pads in the plane, which will sink much less heat when solding.

3) What do I need to do about solder resist etc... Do I need a special layer or something for this?

I assume you are talking of a solder mask to prevent solder bridging. The solder mask should be specified in the order to the board house, so if necessary provide the file with the gerber, drill file, etc.
 
The poured copper will sink much of the heat from the source. Avoid using vias and instead use thermal pads in the plane, which will sink much less heat when solding.

Sorry!...but can you please explain what you mean?

I assume you are talking of a solder mask to prevent solder bridging. The solder mask should be specified in the order to the board house, so if necessary provide the file with the gerber, drill file, etc.

Does Eagle do this for me? How do I also add printed text etc? Do BatchPCB offer this "printed layer" do you know?
 
Sorry!...but can you please explain what you mean?

After re-reading what you wrote initially, I realized you may not be talking about either a power or ground plane with poured copper about the component tie points...my apologies if I made an assumptive error and confused you. I have attached a graphic that displays an isolated pad, a solid pad in a pour and a thermal pad to display the differences, which should display my original interpretation and to show the differences…maybe for your future reference.

But then that begs the question why you have a problem soldering from one side or the other if no heat sink exists. Perhaps you could explain the issues/circumstances you are having in those cases.


Does Eagle do this for me? How do I also add printed text etc? Do BatchPCB offer this "printed layer" do you know?

I cannot help you there as I have neither used Eagle nor BatchPCB. You will have to look into the help files of Eagle and/or query BatchPCB.
 

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  • Pads.jpg
    Pads.jpg
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Could you please upload or send the *.brd to me? I'll try to help you, without any conditions, of course. I do not ask you to my company processing in return . We just forum friends.
 
Could you please upload or send the *.brd to me? I'll try to help you, without any conditions, of course.

That very kind. Thanks!
Here are the eagle files...

View attachment Board.zip


I do not ask you to my company processing in return . We just forum friends.

I would consider it anyway!
Do you offer cheap processing for one off 2x2 inch boards (double sided)?
What about A4 (double sided) sized boards (I could need 1 of these, I could need 10. Will find out later)?

Thanks
G
 
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Thanks.... Sadly, I still don't know what you are talking about!

...but I appreciate the effort to try and explain it to me anyways :)
 
Is the chip really 0.6 inches wide? perhaps you can name the chips
instead of just calling IC1

You can position the components in a suitable fashion to reduce wire crossings while making artwork.
 
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you can use properties - replace command and change it.

Sweeeeeet. Changed it to DIL28-3. Thanks :)

Edit: This might be the wrong size still, can't confirm it from the ATMEGA328 datasheet????
 
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PCBWing. I have just been looking at your site. I am very tempted. How much would delivery be to the UK?
 
PCBWing. I have just been looking at your site. I am very tempted. How much would delivery be to the UK?
why not make one home brew and learn the technique.
here goes a possible single sided artwork .
 

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  • Boardmod.pdf
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  • boardmod.zip
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why not make one home brew and learn the technique.

I have a couple of boards I intend to make home brew and a couple I intend to make professionally.

--

I love that you managed to make the board single sided, means I can include it in the homebrew section now :)

From comparing the previous schema and the new one, I can see you recreated some of the parts (namely ground/vcc). What was the reason for this? (I might learn something)


Thanks man!
 
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