Problems building device controller.

[Lac]

I'm thinking about building the P16PRO40, and first I'll need to collect the required components, but this is were the problem occurs. In the **broken link removed** it is listed that I need a 78L05, but when I found it, I didn't just found ONE but I found around four different versions of it. ex:

L78L05 ACZ/STM
TS78L05 CTTR
LM78L05 ACM
TS78L05CSTR

Anyone who can tell me wich one is the right for the P16PRO40 and what the differences are?

I assume that the two-three first letters are the manfacturer the middle numbers/letter (78L05) are the model number and the last letters I don't know what is or mean.

Help!?

Cheers!
Lac.

 

[Lac]

another question.

I searched around for the W02M but wasn't able to find it, instead I found the W04M. The datasheet can be seen here, does these differences matter or is it just that the W04M must be used in europa (230V) and both the W02M and the W04M can be used in the USA (115V)?

Cheers!
Lac.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

another question.

I searched around for the W02M but wasn't able to find it, instead I found the W04M. The datasheet can be seen here, does these differences matter or is it just that the W04M must be used in europa (230V) and both the W02M and the W04M can be used in the USA (115V)?

It's only a bridge rectifier, the requirements for the P16PRO40 are very low, either would be fine.

 

[Lac]

hmm thanks! but what does a bridge rectifier really do? hehe.. lots of weird questions :wink: And why are there really zero ohm resistors? couldn't you just use a bit if wire?

330pF ceramic (331). I know what the two first values means, but what does (331) stand for?

Thanks!
Lac.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

hmm thanks! but what does a bridge rectifier really do? hehe.. lots of weird questions :wink: And why are there really zero ohm resistors? couldn't you just use a bit if wire?

A bridge rectifer converts AC to DC, basically by 'steering' the positive and negative pulses the correct way - with a DC input it does the same thing, 'steering' the DC (whichever way you connect it) to the correct connections.

I would use a 'bit of wire', but a component insertion machine is far happier using specific shapes - hence the use of zero ohm resistors.

330pF ceramic (331). I know what the two first values means, but what does (331) stand for?

The value is in pF, the first two 3's mean 33 (as you already know), the third value is the number of zero's on the end - so it's 330pF, if it was 332 it would be 3300pF.

 

[Lac]

but how do I know wich dielectrium is right for the ceramic capacitor that I need? There are two types:

Either dielectrium X7R or Z5U.

I don't know if this tell you anything, or if it matters, but I'll just want to sure.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

but how do I know wich dielectrium is right for the ceramic capacitor that I need? There are two types:

Either dielectrium X7R or Z5U.

I don't know if this tell you anything, or if it matters, but I'll just want to sure.

It doesn't matter, any will do.

The easiest way is to buy a kit, they are quite cheap and can be posted anywhere in the world from DIY Electronics in Hong Kong.

 

[Lac]

Nah. Thats just half-way fun. I think I learn a lot more from actually finding the parts myself, and the when I get it all together, I can say that i built this, just by having a plan, not by using a pre-picked kit. I'm the kind of person who like to do things from scratch, if you know what I mean. And these incredible people at this forum who help me with nearly everything i may ask; your incredible. Thank you! :wink:

Cheers.
Lac.