Great job Mark!
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As to etching, the most important step is preparation: clean the board. I used comet cleanser, and made sure to rinse it throughly.
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If you don't mind me asking, what program do you use to layout your boards?
Bill, I am jumping in here because I am also a believer in using just a copper cleaner, mine is made for cleaning (and polishing) bottom of copper plated pots.
Does really quick work, then just a rinse and a wipe with a paper towel till dry.
The rest of the hi tech is an old steam iron, no problems when using P-N-P, of cause you have to get the temp correct.
For my layout I use ExpressPCB, it is free and fairly intuitive, so it is easy to learn.
Bill, I am jumping in here because I am also a believer in using just a copper cleaner, mine is made for cleaning (and polishing) bottom of copper plated pots.
Does really quick work, then just a rinse and a wipe with a paper towel till dry.
The rest of the hi tech is an old steam iron, no problems when using P-N-P, of cause you have to get the temp correct.
For my layout I use ExpressPCB, it is free and fairly intuitive, so it is easy to learn.
I haven't made a pcb since 1996, and at that time I had a good handle on how hot to set the iron and how long to apply it. I think I put a towel between the PNP & the iron. I guess it'll come back to me.
The drill press I picked up at Big Lots, still see them there occasionally.
Drill Bits-The Electronic Goldmine
The usually have a box of 50 on sale for $25. Been a few years since I've even thought to look. The box I've got will likely last a lifetime at the rate I'm going through them. Best to get the assortment pack, and see which sizes are best suited to your needs. I use one slightly larger than needed for passive leads, gives a little wiggle room for ICs, and only rarely need to enlarge holes (pots and switches).
I haven't made a pcb since 1996, and at that time I had a good handle on how hot to set the iron and how long to apply it. I think I put a towel between the PNP & the iron. I guess it'll come back to me.
The temp. should be 300°F +/- 25°
Place a section of newspaper under the PCB, to insulate the heat and a clean peace of copy paper on top of the PCB - P-N-P sandwich to make the iron glide smoothly. Make sure the iron travels so its center contacts all of the board for even heat. 3 minutes does it. Run cold water over it for a few seconds and peal the P-N-P.
I'll be glad to talk you about it on Skype, anytime.
I use the free version of Eagle. It's not so simple as ExpressPCB, and would take you more time to learn, but you'll be able to do more with it, and if you want to use a boardhouse other than ExpressPCB to do a professional PCB, it will output Gerber files. Some board manufacturers will take straight Eagle output files as well. There's plenty of web tutorials if you Google them.
The drill press I picked up at Big Lots, still see them there occasionally.
Drill Bits-The Electronic Goldmine
The usually have a box of 50 on sale for $25. Been a few years since I've even thought to look. The box I've got will likely last a lifetime at the rate I'm going through them. Best to get the assortment pack, and see which sizes are best suited to your needs. I use one slightly larger than needed for passive leads, gives a little wiggle room for ICs, and only rarely need to enlarge holes (pots and switches).
Thanks! The used ones for $2 bucks looks like a steal. I still have 2 or 3 that I bought at this hardware store in Oxford Michigan (I used one of them to drill out the pcs in the picture), but I always felt that they were just slightly too large. The shaft on them was too thin, not like the ones in the picture on the EG site.
In the box I found, I have 2 bottles of Radio Shack etchant. They're 13-14 years old. Should I trash them?
The laminator we are talking about is a heated roller setup used to laminate paper or cardboard between plastic. Instead of ironing you run the PCB through the laminator a few times.
There has been some progress in toner transfer. I like the PulsarProFx system others go for Press and Peel (P&P).
The pulsar paper is coated with a starch that turns to slime when wet. The paper floats off the PCB in about a minute. It seems this also allows for a finer line.
To see a quick overview of the pulsar process see . This is an older page. The new (under construction) website says the process is 8 minutes. This is without drilling holes or warming up the laminator.
Frank, the inventor behind Pulsar has a neat etching method where you wipe the copper off the PCB with a sponge and ferric chloride.
The same people also make DecalPro. A system for making carrier free decals in color or foil. Fun stuff.
I use the free version of Eagle. It's not so simple as ExpressPCB, and would take you more time to learn, but you'll be able to do more with it, and if you want to use a boardhouse other than ExpressPCB to do a professional PCB, it will output Gerber files. Some board manufacturers will take straight Eagle output files as well. There's plenty of web tutorials if you Google them.
The laminator we are talking about is a heated roller setup used to laminate paper or cardboard between plastic. Instead of ironing you run the PCB through the laminator a few times.
There has been some progress in toner transfer. I like the PulsarProFx system others go for Press and Peel (P&P).
The pulsar paper is coated with a starch that turns to slime when wet. The paper floats off the PCB in about a minute. It seems this also allows for a finer line.
To see a quick overview of the pulsar process see . This is an older page. The new (under construction) website says the process is 8 minutes. This is without drilling holes or warming up the laminator.
Frank, the inventor behind Pulsar has a neat etching method where you wipe the copper off the PCB with a sponge and ferric chloride.
The same people also make DecalPro. A system for making carrier free decals in color or foil. Fun stuff.
I use the free version of Eagle. It's not so simple as ExpressPCB, and would take you more time to learn, but you'll be able to do more with it, and if you want to use a boardhouse other than ExpressPCB to do a professional PCB, it will output Gerber files. Some board manufacturers will take straight Eagle output files as well. There's plenty of web tutorials if you Google them.
I'm honoured, but I don't use Press-n-Peel, so what might work for me might not work for you. Other people have confirmed it, though, so I think it's a good bet it's just as effective with PnP.
I too spent a while without touching this stuff and just got back into it about a month ago.
I'm honoured, but I don't use Press-n-Peel, so what might work for me might not work for you. Other people have confirmed it, though, so I think it's a good bet it's just as effective with PnP.
I too spent a while without touching this stuff and just got back into it about a month ago.
I'm anxious to get the TIA and see how well it works with the PNP. But just in case, I ordered their supplies too. I'll report the results after I try it with PNP.