Power Solution for Car audio applications that require high amperage

[Nas222PTB]

I am trying to find a solution to provide my vehicle which has a 94R/H7 12v battery and a 150amp alternator with enough power to run a car audio amplifier which is a Taramps Smart 3k audio amplifier. The amps power input is 12v-16v and has a 150-300amp draw or requirements. I am very new to all the electronic stuff but am fairly capable and learn very fast. I know I could just buy a HO 320-370amp alternator and throw a aux battery in but I want to be difficult I guess! What would be a fairly cost efficient way to resolve this? I have seen these Brazilian audio companies that have bivolt ac-dc charger/power supplies which can provide up to 150-240amps but that would require alot of headache as well. If there is a way to use like a boost converter then make it provide continuous 16v directly to the audio amp with a minimal input requirement from the vehicle power system that would be great. I guess kind of like an super efficient electronic alternator that runs off the electrical system. Any help would be great! Thanks in advance!

 

[gophert]

First, power is power. Volts x amps = watts. You can't convert one voltage to another voltage to create more power than the alternators output max power (watts).

the only common option to get more very short term power out than the max of your alternator is to use a high-capacity capacitor (one or two farads). This gets you through the low-end bass at high power. also, it is unlikely that you will push your amp to full power unless you want to either (a) use your amp to power audio for an outdoor theater or, (b) to Turn volume to max with your windows rolled up to liquify your brain.

finally, just because the volume knob goes to 10 (or 11), doesn't mean you need to turn it to 10 (or 11).

good luck

 

[Diver300]

The alternator that you have at the moment is 150 A, so at 14 V the power is 2100 W. That is the most that can be got from it. Obviously the car's systems will take some power, maybe 20 A without the AC or any lights on, and if the engine is at tickover, you probably won't get more than about 80 A from the alternator, leaving maybe 60A available.

For short term power, the battery will provide that, although the voltage will dip once you start taking current from the alternator.

Also, if the power load is fluctuating, car alternators are slow to respond, so for the battery is needed to supply power when the load increases suddenly, and to absorb power when the load reduces suddenly. Every time the fan starts, or the heated screen turns on, or the headlights are turned on, it's the battery that supports the load for 1/4 - 1/2 second until the alternator responds.

There is no point trying to boost the voltage. The amplifier is designed to work with a 9 - 16 V input and it has it's own boost circuit to give a higher voltage to the speaker.

Anywhere near full power with an amplifier like that will be deafening. A loud bass beat will take a lot of power, but not for long, and the battery will support that, as the load will come on and go off too fast for the alternator to respond.

Unless you want to run demos all the time, the standard alternator and battery will most likely be fine. If not, the battery will be discharged and you will have to turn off the music until it recovers.

As Gophert said, you can't do anything about the power the alternator produces. If you want more, you need a larger power of alternator. That is why alternator upgrades are used. If there was a swift cheap solution, it would be used.

 

[audioguru]

The amplifier is mono with only one output. It produces 3000W RMS into 1 ohm. It is not stereo or surround sound.
If you want stereo or surround sound then you will need another amplifier with more outputs and an alternator and battery that provide much more power.

An MTX Jackhammer sub-woofer weighs over 400 pounds and can produce 3000W from that amplifier when wired for 1 ohm. It is on sale today for only $10,000US.
Its sensitivity is 92dB for 1W at 1 meter which is deafening. 102dB for 10W, 112dB for 100W, 122dB for 1000W and 126dB for 3000W. 120dB is painful.

Why do you want it to be extremely loud?? I hope you will stay away from my neighbourhood.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

I am trying to find a solution to provide my vehicle which has a 94R/H7 12v battery and a 150amp alternator with enough power to run a car audio amplifier which is a Taramps Smart 3k audio amplifier. The amps power input is 12v-16v and has a 150-300amp draw or requirements. I am very new to all the electronic stuff but am fairly capable and learn very fast. I know I could just buy a HO 320-370amp alternator and throw a aux battery in but I want to be difficult I guess! What would be a fairly cost efficient way to resolve this?

You already know the answer, anything else would require 'magic' which unfortunately isn't real.

 

[unclejed613]

dual alternators would be your best bet, but it depends on how much room you have under the hood, and whether it can be mounted to the engine. AG's numbers are accurate, and if you do manage to get that thing cranked up to full power, you may end up needing surgery. your sinuses and ears can only take so much overpressure.

cost efficient? cost rises exponentially with power in most electronics...

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Hook it to an extension cord to the house <G>!

 

[unclejed613]

also, for safety (you DON'T want to set your car on fire) your wiring will need to be 250MCM (chart [here]). you could use #0000AWG, but 300A is very close to the 325A limit.