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PIC programer

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What programming language will you be using.
 
alright i am getting every thing from dipmicro the pickit2 (with out encloser) a few pics.
for the ICSP port or the programing port. could i just stick some 22AWG non stranded wire into the ports and then bring them to the breadboard. or i am sure i could make something or that mater. on picmicro they only had one of the pics you recommended for me. so i just picked out a few tell me if they are any good or if you could go onto dipmicro and find them for me i dont care.
i got/going to get

PIC12F683-I/P Microchip Microcontroller
PIC18F448 Microchip Microcontroller
PIC18LF24J10-I/SP microcontroller
PIC16F506-I/P Microchip Microcontroller
 
for the ICSP port or the programing port. could i just stick some 22AWG non stranded wire into the ports and then bring them to the breadboard.
That's a really crappy way to do it. Get yourself maybe 4 or 6 each male and female IDC connectors. Also get some two row header pins and while you're at it some single row (useful stuff). Then with an old floppy ribbon cable you can make good, solid programming cables and breadboard adapters and a programmer adapter with ease. Won't cost more than a few bucks. They last good and they don't fall apart or short circuit and kill your nice new programmer. See my site for pics of what they look like, and also a how-to for making a good PICkit 2 cable adapter.

on picmicro they only had one of the pics you recommended for me. so i just picked out a few tell me if they are any good or if you could go onto dipmicro and find them for me i dont care.
i got/going to get

PIC12F683-I/P Microchip Microcontroller
Fine

PIC18F448 Microchip Microcontroller
No internal oscillator, but fine. I bought two recently.

PIC18LF24J10-I/SP microcontroller
PIC16F506-I/P Microchip Microcontroller
No comment. I don't know about these ones, except that the LF is a low power model. I don't have any of either.
 
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That's a really crappy way to do it. Get yourself maybe 4 or 6 each male and female IDC connectors. Also get some two row header pins and while you're at it some single row (useful stuff). Then with an old floppy ribbon cable you can make good, solid programming cables and breadboard adapters and a programmer adapter with ease. Won't cost more than a few bucks. They last good and they don't fall apart or short circuit and kill your nice new programmer. See my site for pics of what they look like, and also a how-to for making a good PICkit 2 cable adapter.


Fine


No internal oscillator, but fine. I bought two recently.


No comment. I don't know about these ones, except that the LF is a low power model. I don't have any of either.

hey i dont see anything on your website about the pickit2 cable.
also so what pics on dipmicro should i get
 
As Futz said, make a decent cable, else if your project won't program, you know its not bad hardware..
I know some have had problems with using ribbon cables that are more than a few inches long. I haven't myself, but I normally push right angled male pcb header into the breadboard, and put the PicKit, direct into that where possible

Jim
 
I know some have had problems with using ribbon cables that are more than a few inches long.
I hear that occasionally. I don't understand it. I think those people are just sloppy, or maybe working in an incredibly electrically noisy environment? My typical programming cable is about 12" long. Some are longer. Some are shorter. I've never had a problem. They're very reliable.
 
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hey i dont see anything on your website about the pickit2 cable.
Here's the **broken link removed** for a PICkit 2 adapter. I don't have a how-to for making ribbon cables but you'll find plenty of pictures of them there. I guess one day I should make a pure newbie article, showing all the basics. I could make up a ribbon cable building article in under an hour though. It's not difficult, but there are a few details that most beginners botch up. I did for sure. :p Order a few extra connectors! :D But once you build one wrong you immediately realize what you should have done and you do it right the second (or third) time.

One note that immediately comes to mind is that you don't need a vice or a huge pliers or a hammer, like I see some web-sites recommending. You can almost put small IDC connectors like that together with your fingers. I use a tiny 6" pliers and even with those I've oversqueezed (crushed) a few connectors and had to cut em off and start over. Ribbon cable insulation is soft. Be gentle. Use only just barely enough force to squeeze the connector together!

also so what pics on dipmicro should i get
Boy, Roman (DipMicro) sure has an odd selection of PICs on his site. You might consider ordering that original list of PICs from Newark instead. I haven't ordered from them, but I've heard nothing but good things. Fast service, excellent selection, etc. Their PIC prices are very good.
 
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i got/going to get

PIC12F683-I/P Microchip Microcontroller
PIC18F448 Microchip Microcontroller
PIC18LF24J10-I/SP microcontroller
PIC16F506-I/P Microchip Microcontroller

12F683 - Top of 8-pin line. Good choice
16F506 - OK but a baseline chip with baseline quirks. Best to avoid as a beginner.
18LF24J10 - Interesting chip but meant for 3.0v. I wouldn't recommend for a beginner.

I would add a 16F628A to the list.

My recommendation would be two 12F683 and two 16F628A or alternatively two 16F688. PICs take rough treatment, but it's good to have a spare in case you damage one.

To be truthful Dipmicro doesn't have the best selection of PICS or the best prices. Save your money to buy a good selection of PICs then when its time buy from Newark. Their prices for PICs are the best. Make a sufficiently large order so that the shipping is a minor part of the total cost.
 
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Here are my connectors for use with PK2, connects programmer to target device on breadboard.

Actually, I find the one with individual wires to be handiest.

Also, you can take advantage of Microchip's liberal sample program.
 

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Here are my connectors for use with PK2, connects programmer to target device on breadboard.
And here's mine:

**broken link removed**


Here's some closeups of the connectors:

**broken link removed**

**broken link removed**


My breadboard ICSP adapter, built from a 2x5 shrouded IDC male connector soldered to 2x5 pins of two-row header. This is the best way I've ever done it. I have a bunch of these. They're rock solid on the breadboard. You could swing the breadboard around your head by the cable and still have good connection. They cost less than 50 cents to make:

**broken link removed**

**broken link removed**


Barrel effect in this tight macro photo makes it look like the wires are in the wrong places, but they're actually not.
**broken link removed**
 
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davidbball13 it is obvious that for PIC's you are shooting in the dark. I would go for:

18F1320
-or-
18F1330
18F2525
-or-
18F2550
18F4620
16F88
16F887

All of these (I think except the 16F88) have internal 8MHz oscillators, and the 18F1330 has Pulse lock loop to speed it up to 32MHz.
 
Here are my connectors for use with PK2, connects programmer to target device on breadboard.

Actually, I find the one with individual wires to be handiest.

Also, you can take advantage of Microchip's liberal sample program.

i think i will make that kids of connector.and i will look into the free PICs
 
My cable is pretty much like yours Futz.. I don't know where the ICSP cable length thing comes from, but mine is approx 30cm, and works fine..

btw..16F88 has got an internal oscillator. I have used and abused a few of them, and they're still going strong :)
 
I bought the PICKIT2 from Dipmicro. The package came with premade cables that I simply had to plug in (well, a cable with both ends that were female... but included were two 6 pin headers).

Maybe I just got lucky?
-Omar
 
is a winpic800 better than a junebug or a pickit2?all will be cloned i am talking about first choice pics and than avrs.?
 
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