I used 1.0 mm 60/40 lead solder and 30W iron.What solder are you using?
I agree, I have to buy 0.5 mm solder.Looking ok so far, though you've got a bit too much solder on most of them. Possibly you need thinner solder - I use 0.5mm. You might need to run your iron a little hotter too.
Is this flux generaly good for SMD and non-SMD soldering?I also use extra flux, a gel type called "Chipquik" which come is small squeezy tubes.
I used same procedure, but I encountered problem.When soldering a resistor, I put a small dab of the flux on both pads,
I then tin one of the pads,
hold the resistor in place using tweezers (self gripping type are easiest to use for this),
heat the pad with the solder and let it re-flow and join the resistor.
Then I apply the iron and solder to the other pad to complete the fitting of the resistor.
I saw a bunch of YouTube videos where people solder SMD components, especially chips, by putting solder on tip and solder that way.No never solder anything that way! If you do I will come to your house and beat you around the head with a screwdriver!
The procedure should always be clean, tin and wipe the tip, then heat the pad and component lead, and apply solder to them direct. Often you need to start it off applying solder to the iron at the same time, but never ever use the iron to take solder to the joint! Then just keep going until you need to clean again - usually due to build up of solder on the tip.
Of course that's fine for through hole connections, or solder tags, which don't need you to hold them together whilst you solder them. SMDs don't have that advantage...
Basically, you need to grow an extra arm. Do that and you'll be just fine
No really, Jim has the best way. Tack one end to the tinned pad just to stop it moving, then solder the other end, then solder the first end properly.
It does not seem to.Doesn't solder paste go bad if you keep it too long?
I can't remember which one the word applies to, but one of them is a eutectic alloy and the other isn't. 60/40 has solidus and liquidus points at different temperatures, whereas 63/37 they are at the same temperatures. Each has advantages and disadvantages. I've never used 63/37 so can't comment. For a clearer understanding you could look at the phase diagram for each alloy.I thought there's no difference.
You're not thinking of drag soldering, are you? That is the exception to the rule; you can even get specially shaped bits to do it. You definitely need extra flux if you do it. I never had any luck with the method except one time.I saw a bunch of YouTube videos where people solder SMD components, especially chips, by putting solder on tip and solder that way.
I know that's not recommended, I saw even some pro serviceman do it that way.
I know that objects for soldering need to be heated first in order to transfer solder, and I always did it that way.