I wonder if 5v accuracy affects the Temp sensors as any series resistance might drop voltage with unknown current
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You have pins 1,2 and 3 in one connector and 1 and 3 in the second. Can't you just plug pin #2?
are they at least keyed for orientation?
If not M I C K E Y M O U S E
If key not possible then make cable adapters for both ends that are fixed for one end with mating connectors for other end with 2 pin and 3 pin keyed for orientation.
Sorry buddy, not following you on this one. If you are suggesting modifying the stuff "in the box", I'm getting a no go on those solutions. So changing the chassis connectors and adding stuff in the box is out.
Not quite. Pins 1, 2, and 3, and pins 1, 3 are wired. All three pins exist. If pin 2 is plugged the connector won't mate, the male pin is still there.
lets say if socket #2 is plugged (Glue or toothpick), the pin won't mate with the other connector. Good. Cut pin #2 off. So, the connector without pin #2 removed and the socket plugged, can't mate with anything else.
Yea, we don't have a pic of your connector. These http://www.galco.com/buy/Amp/206151-1?source=googleshopping can be had in standard and reverse sex. A $20 tool removes these pins in literally seconds. Used from the mating side.
Some car pin removal tools work from the wire side.
The pin may not be removable. Use a Dremel tool and grind down the pin.
What is the gender of the powered and unpowered ends? This scheme will prevent the 3 pin male from being inserted into the newly formed 2 pin female, but won't prevent the 2 pin male from mating with the 3 pin female.
The contact insert on all of the XLR connectors that I have used have been removable by removing the screw in the side. The pins are fairly heavy, so don't try clipping them with a small pair of cutters. When you plug the unused pin of the female, you'll want to fill it flush with the top to prevent a 3 pin male from being partially inserted. Even if the pin tips make contact with the sockets, you will have a meltdown.
Don't know if you have enough room, but since the sensor only needs 1.5 ma. max why not just a 1k 1/2 w resistor in series with the 5/24 volts and a 5.1 volt zener to ground after it?BINGO! As previously stated, all three connectors on the chassis are the same. So modifying the control box power connector to be a keyed 2 pin does not prevent the 3 pin 5V sensor connector from being plugged into the 24V control box connector. In fact keying won't prevent the sensor from being plugged into the wrong spot.
That's interesting stuff, but not applicable since (a) the system is not using XLR connectors (the connectors look very similar hence the picture but about 1/3 to 1/4 the size) and (b) keying won't help or prevent anything.
I said it "it looks like that connector". It is not that exact connector. It is not an XLR connector as shown tin the example picture. The connectors I am dealing with are only 1/4" in diameter, an XLR is about 3 times that large.