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I think you want a non-retrigerable delay on make, but you may in fact want something else.
You need to inhibit, the activation again.
e.g.
Push - you get 2 seconds all the time. release, the 2 seconds still happens.
Push also creates another 4 second timer, this timer disconnects the push button, so you get 2 seconds on and 2 seconds off.
Yeah, that's the key. I may have a practical circuit worked out using a couple of not expensive standard modules, but not the type that Chrisk first posted. I just couldn't work out a way to use those elegantly. The fact that they do nothing when you hit them is the fundamental problem. I am just working out the details and if ok will draw it up. If not it will be because it didn't turn out well- like a lot of things!
Handy circuit. I see what you are doing. Once the 555 has triggered it doesnt matter how many time you push the button it won't do anything until thr 555 has reset. I imagine you were thinking about using another 555 for the hold off period. As I said above, I may have found another solution with modules. I will post that then Chrisk will have a choice of approaches.
Function 12:
Trigger timing off: After power relay does not act, a high-level interface to CH1 pulse signal relay, the relay off delay time T1, T1 between 0.1 seconds -270 hours adjustable, repeat to CH1 interface a high pulse signal, repeat the above functions;
This seller has all functions listed.
**broken link removed**
Timer Modules 1 & 2 come as a coplete kit including small PCB. They are about £4 each from Rapid
The timer modules are a lot more flexible than the standard types you see on Amazon and Ebay and can be set to differnt modes by adjusting two potentiometers. These are also used to set the timing. Because the timers come in bits they should help modifications for other projects. They are all through hole which is once again good for mods. The relay can only handle 3A compared to the 10A for the common prebuilt types, but I would feel more confortable for this application with a more substantial relay anyway and would probably have sugessted using the relay specified here for the original timer module. I could imagine igniters being a rather demanding load. If the igniter turns out to be a begine load of up to an Amp, Q1 and associated componedts could be omitted and the relay on the timer board used.
The relay is an automotive 30A type which is rugged, but quite cheap at around £3.50
The transistor is a medium power bipolar costing about £0.50
Building should be quite simple: the boards are amall and simple to stuff as all components are thru hole. The relay is a standard auto tye with flanges for mouting with bolts and the terminals are standard slip-on crimp type male contacts. That just leaves Q1 which also bolts down, with an insulating washer, so the only lose component is the resistor.
This is how it works (should work)
TM2 has a delay of 10 seconds and TM1 2 seconds (these times can be adjusted)
When the switch is pushed both timers change state. TM1 provides the 2 second pulse for the igniter via relay 1.
TM 2 prevents frurther triggering of TM1 and hence prevents further igniter operation.
When TM2 resets, triggering by S1 is enabled again.
At least that is the theory.
The circuit for the controller is shown below along with the shematic for the timer modules. The instructions for building the timer modules is also attached.
You can use a variable 1 to 10 second Potter & Brumfield timer relay. Push the button a horn honks when the timer times out it turns off the horn. Release the button and push it again the horn honks again. Wire it with a push button dead man circuit once the button is pushed relays stays on until the relay times out and turns itself off. Horn is output signal voltage you want, remove the horn. You can buy these is 12 vdc or 120vac.
Possibly look at charging up a capacitor to a high voltage with a Cockroft & Walton voltage multiplier. That would give the rats something to think about.
These are big rats. The exterminator can't get it under control. It's getting cold out and they move in from outside. This is a warehouse that never closes.
These are big rats. The exterminator can't get it under control. It's getting cold out and they move in from outside. This is a warehouse that never closes.
Its from china.
Probably the same thing that goes in a stun gun.
It states not to use it over 10 seconds. Maybe continuous voltage of 10 seconds would kill it??
Possibly look at charging up a capacitor to a high voltage with a Cockroft & Walton voltage multiplier. That would give the rats something to think about.
Once many years ago I put an electric fence wire about 3" from the ground. I put it around the garden to keep the squirrels out. When squirrels touched the wire they were dead in a few seconds. Birds were easier to kill. I did not want to kill squirrels or birds I just wanted them to stay away so I took the electric fence down. This was a cheap $10 electric fence charger from TSC the shock was barely enough to make a cow jump when it touched the wire. It worked good to keep dogs from taking a dump in my yard.
Use a motion detector light to turn on the electric fence. Turn timer down low as it goes. My motion detectors all have a minimum of 6 seconds. Put a metal strip across a sheet of plywood then run a #24 copper wire 1" above the metal strip. When the rat or mouse tries to go under the wire it gets zapped.
Once many years ago I put an electric fence wire about 3" from the ground. I put it around the garden to keep the squirrels out. When squirrels touched the wire they were dead in a few seconds. Birds were easier to kill. I did not want to kill squirrels or birds I just wanted them to stay away so I took the electric fence down. This was a cheap $10 electric fence charger from TSC the shock was barely enough to make a cow jump when it touched the wire. It worked good to keep dogs from taking a dump in my yard.
Use a motion detector light to turn on the electric fence. Turn timer down low as it goes. My motion detectors all have a minimum of 6 seconds. Put a metal strip across a sheet of plywood then run a #24 copper wire 1" above the metal strip. When the rat or mouse tries to go under the wire it gets zapped.
I was a a bit kinder. We used to get little field mice in our house fromtime to time. But they pushed their luck to far when they nibbled all the wifes Xmas puddingd which hsd been maturing for around six months, so I was instructed to get rid of them. They were nice little things so I got a humaine trap. When one was caught I used to drive a couple of miles to a wood and let them loose. Things went well until one night, about 1 am, I heard the cage rattling so off to the woods I went with our little visitor. I put the trap on the pavement and opened the trap door, but the mouse was so frightened that it coulldn't move and just sat ther quivering. So I got down on my knees and was trying to coax it out when a vehicle pulled up with its lights shining on me. It turned out to be a policeman and policelady. I had a real job getting them to belive what I was doing and it didn't help that I was in my pajamas.
I'm being serious: have you thought about gettinga couple of cats . I worked on a farm in the summer holidys while at school. The farmer had barns stacked withe bags of wheat that we harvested from the fields. Ther were about four cats to a barn but no sign of anything living- plenty of bits of mice and rats around though.
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