Need help modding storm chasing car.

[Yomatsu]

I have been using my 12V-10Amp sockets much too long. I do not believe they will do what I need them to in the future. Here are the things I'm looking to do.

I'd like to run multiple electronics, such as laptops, radar detector, cameras, CB/HAM Radio, strobe/work lights, among other small things. I would also like to power said electronics from a separate battery so I can run them without worry of draining the main battery. I know I'll need an inverter. My question really is, what's the best way to go about this? This is all inside of a Honda Pilot 03.

I know I'll need a second battery, possibly deep cycle. I'd probably want to hook that directly to the main battery in such a manner that It won't drain the main battery, but It'll charge up from it. That's just my complete average joe newb way of thinking. I'm probably wrong. I would appreciate a layman's terms explanation on how i'd want to go about all of this, step by step, possibly with links to good products ect. I need to find a good laptop mount, strobe kit (amber and white). I also am going to replace my front and possibly back shocks. They are in bad repair. I know that's not electrical but I figured I'd throw it in in case anyone knows where I can get some good stuff.

Mainly I'm looking for answers with recommendations for anything you'd think I'd want with STORM CHASING in mind. Thank-you for your patience and time!

 

[Tony Stewart]

plan on about 0.7 to 1 lb per Ah ( Amp hour) in battery weight. CCA means nothing for storage. Then factor 70% efficiency for up and down conversion, if lucky.


edit I meant 0.7 lb (not kg) per Ah for 12V sorry , senior's moment corrected.

https://www.batteryspace.com/sealedleadacidbattery12v70ahla-12v70ah.aspx
70Ah 50.7 lb $130
(0.72 lb/Ah)

also when using battery isolated watch out you dont blow diodes in either isolator or Alternator from surge current switching the dead battery on the alternator !!
A ICL current limiter is suggested with a PTC limiter or some nichome wire about 0.1 Ohm 3mm coiled with fan 50A *.1 = 250 Watts.

 

[ClydeCrashKop]

You will need something like this:
https://www.wholesalemarine.com/guest-70-amp-battery-isolator-1-alternator-2-batteries.html

 

[Reloadron]

I would start with a Google of dual battery isolators which will yield many units like ClydeCrashCop linked to. They are popular in ambulances, police cars and other emergency vehicles where power demands can be very high. You may also want to look at some of the high output alternators. I am not sure you will find one that is a simple bolt on for a Honda CRV though.

You need to look at your power demands as to items powered from 12 VDC or 120 VAC. When you consider inverters you start with two basic flavors. The majority of inexpensive units are MSW (Modified Sine Wave) output which are fine for most but not all applications. Next is the TSW (True Sine Wave) type which duplicates in waveform the 120 VAC 60 Hz found in the US or Canada. The latter TSW units carry a more hefty price tag.

Keep in mind that all of this comes down to power or more like power used. Unless you are putting back what you use, under high demand you will need a large battery, real large. So think about the alternator supporting your syatems.

Ron

 

[Yomatsu]

Ahh i'd never heard of a battery isolator before. That'll help me a lot! I've read that the standard alternator can charge multiple batteries. I am considering mounting a solar panel on the top of my car for a trickle charge as well. Just for testing purposes.

 

[Reloadron]

A good battery isolator will take care of charging, just remember you can't use more power than you make. Well actually you can but only for a short time.

While solar panels are pretty novel you called it right, for a large power battery syatem all you have for your investment is a trickle charger.

Ron

 

[discostuee]

I have dual battery on my boat, i just picked up a ARB Solenoid for $20 off ebay, the engine battery is linked to the other battery via this and when the ignition is turned on the solenoid works and allows charge to the other battery, is this the type of thing your after? I suppose you could put a timer on it so when the ignition is turned on it wont activate the solenoid for 2 mins (enough time to start the car on the car battery.