Welcome to our site!

Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

  • Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

ladder logic help

Not open for further replies.

Wil Davenport

New Member
I need help with ladder logic for home brewing of beer. You can use anything for this project
a simple form would be great. Any help would be fine. Student Wil thank you
Last edited:


Well-Known Member

I would like to help, but you must elaborate the problem properly first.

You (not anybody else) must go ahead and specify the problem (all input outputs in detail). Then you try to draw the ladder diagram. If you don't get it to work as expected, then it's time to come around and ask for help.

Me and several others on this forum don't have knowledge on how to brew beer, so you have to elaborate that too - in great detail.

Also, when elaborating how you want it to work, do it in a structural manner. Attach any neccesary drawings, list over switches, outputs, etc.

Wil Davenport

New Member
Some ladder logic using these steps heating, adding hops ,cooling , bottling Place crushed chocolate malt into a hop bag/grain bag and let steep in 2.5 gallons of water for 30 minutes, at 150F. You can occasionally swirl or steep the bag in the liquid, just like you would when making hot tea.

After 30 mins of steeping, remove the bag of grain, and rinse it slowly with one quart of warm water. DO NOT squeeze the bag to extract liquid, simply rinse. Bring the grain-infused water to boil.

After the boil has begun, remove the brewpot from the heat. Open the bags of malt extract and slowly pour them in. Make sure to stir constantly as you are slowly adding the extract and avoid letting the extract hit the bottom of the brewpot.

Put the brewpot back over the heat and commence boiling. BE CAREFUL OF BOILOVERS AT ALL TIMES! DO NOT COVER YOUR BREWPOT WITH A LID!

Once the wort has commenced boiling, take one full oz. of the hops, place them in a hop bag, tie it off, and add it to the boil. This marks the beginning of the 60 minute boil. Stir occasionally. Again, watch for boilovers during the entire boil. Add the half-ounce hop addition in the same manner at 30 minutes into the boil, and again at 45 minutes into the boil.

Boil for 15 more minutes after the last half-ounce hop addition, making the total boil time a 60 minute boil.

Toward the end of your 60 minute boil, you must prepare to sanitize all of your equipment. Sanitize everything that will come in contact with your wort after it has cooled. This includes the turkey baster, whisk, lid, airlock, fermenter, thermometer stem, and stopper. Make sure all parts of your fermenter have come in contact with sanitizer. If using One-Step, use at least 3 gallons of water and 3 tablespoons of One-Step to sanitize. You may even sanitize in your fermenter if need be, just be careful to not scratch the interior surface of the bucket.

After the equipment has been sanitized pour out the sanitizing solution (it does not need rinsed if using One-Step) and add three gallons of COLD water to the fermenter. Fill the airlock halfway with water and insert it into the rubber stopper. Place the lid on the fermenter, and put the rubber stopper/airlock into the hole in the bung.

Toward the end of the 60 minute boil, prepare to cool your hot wort by filling a sink halfway with COLD water and ice.

After the wort has boiled for an hour, remove it from the heat and turn off your stove. Remove the hop bags from the wort, COVER your pot with the pot lid and place it into the ice water bath for 20 minutes. DO NOT ADD ICE OR THE ICE WATER DIRECTLY INTO YOUR BREWPOT. You may have to change the water in the sink after about the first 10 minutes as it will absorb the heat from your brewpot. Again, total cooling time should only take 20-30 minutes.

Prepare yeast (only if using dry yeast to substitute for the Weihenstephan yeast, however the final beer character will not be the same).

Add the wort from your brewpot to the cold water in your fermenter. Total volume of beer in the fermenter should be between 5.25-5.5 gallons. Depending on the intensity of your boil, it varies how much liquid was boiled off during the boil. MIX THE WORT AND WATER WELL WITH A SANITIZED WHISK/SPOON. After evenly mixed, make sure the wort is cooled down to at least 75 degrees (it should be). Make sure everything that comes in contact with your wort has been sanitized, and don't cough or sneeze over your fermenter!

When your wort is cool (at least 75 degrees), take a sample of the wort (make sure its mixed thoroughly from previous step!) with your turkey baster and place it into the hydrometer jar with the hydrometer. Make sure the hydrometer floats freely. Write your specific gravity down (it should be approximately 1060-1063), and make any adjustments due to temperature (see Hydrometer page). This is your original gravity. DO NOT return the sample to your fermenter, drink it in a separate glass instead.

Stir wort vigorously with the whisk until the wort surface is nice and frothy. This will introduce oxygen that is beneficial to yeast reproduction during fermentation.

Pour in (pitch) your yeast and snap on the lid. Fill the airlock about halfway with water or vodka if you haven't already done so. This way CO2 will escape, but nothing can get into your homebrew. Make sure the bung and airlock is in place on the lid.

Place the fermenter in a spot where it will not be disturbed, ideally in a spot between 65-70F.

Your done! (You still need to bottle after fermentation is complete in about 7-10 days) Congrats, you've just finished your first homebrew! You should see signs of fermentation within 24 hours. Signs of yeast fermentation include: bubbling of your airlock from the release of CO2, uneven water levels in the airlock, and krausen, which is a crusty or cake-like ring that will form around the edge of your fermenter inside. Do not open the lid or take off the airlock during fermentation if you do not have to.

Your homemade beer should be ready to drink 2-3 weeks after the bottling date.

It's ALIVE!!Yeast fermentation and making a yeast starter.
How to use your hydrometer and calculate readings.
So you think your homebrew is pretty tasty?? Find out what Homebrew competitions are all about.

All wrongs righted
It doesnt have to be perfect I need the ladder logic for heating, cooling, adding grains,hops I hope this helps thank you

Here is the proceudure i have come up witth to go with the above-

This first bit is how i would have used BASIC in the past (ish)

Input “What time do you want to Mash-In?” mashintime 24hclock
Input “How much mash water do you need?” mashwatervolume in litres
Input “How long do you want to mash for?” mashlegnth in minutes
Input “How much water do you need for the boil?” boilvolume in litres
Input “How long do you want to boil for?” boillength in minutes

This is the proceudre-

NOTE: The program will not move on to the next instruction unit the current one has completed.
PHASE 1 Prepare for mash
1 At 2 hours before mashintime turn on HLTPID
2 At 30 minutes before mashintime open V1 & V3 for mashwatervolume minutes (here I am assuming for now that 1litre of water will flow into the mash tun per minute)
3 Close V1 & V3
4 Turn on pump MM1, open V3 and turn on mashPID (this will keep mash tun rimsing at 74c ready for mashing in)
5 At mashinttime alert brewer with beeping Input “Start PHASE 2?” wait for key “Y” to be pressed
Wait for manual instruction(Start PHASE2) that mash-in has been completed and that mashPID has been set down to desired mash temperature and HLT toped up with treated water.

PHASE 2 Mash, Sparge, Fill Boiler, Boil, add hops, cool and fill FV
6 At mashlength minutes after Start Phase 2 instruction, turn off mashPID, turn on mashoutPID, close valve V3, open valve V4 and V5 (this will fill the boiler at a rate of 1/2lpm and automatically fly sparge)
7 After 2 times boilvolume expressed as minutes, turn off mashoutPID, turn off pump MM1, close valves V4 & V5 (this will stop filling the boiler after the required volume has been collected)8 Turn on boilPID, open bittering hopper for 5 seconds (5seconds should allow enough time for the hops to drop into the boiler)
9 At 10minutes before end of boillength has elapsed, open 10min hopper for 5 seconds
10 At 5minutes before end of boillength has elapsed, open 5min hopper for 5 seconds
11 When boillength has elapsed turn off boilPID, open 0min hopper for 5 seconds
12 20minutes after boilPID was turned off, open V6, turn on peristaltic pump PP1, open V7 (this will fill the FV with cooled wort at a rate of half a litre a minute, allowing the hops to drain at the level of wort drops.)
13 After 2 times boilvolume expressed as minutes, turn off PP1 and close V6 and V7.
14 Alert brewer that the FV is ready for yeast pitching!
Last edited:


Well-Known Member
Next up is making a table for overview


Next step is to make two tables (or grouped otherwise).

Using two tables:
Table 1 - Input readings. This also includes all timers (one timer should be used several times). It's very important to make a test-program first to test different timer functions. I assume you're familiar with this.
Table 2 - Output. All lights and motors is listed ut here.

Table should contain three coloumns:
  • Address used by PLC.
  • Short name of function.
  • Description of the function.
Not open for further replies.

Latest threads