IR LED diode replacement in TV remote control

[starLED]

Hi everyone!

I need to replace IR LED diode in TV remote control, but I don't know if I can replace it with any diode that I can buy in store.
The only thing I know is that is 5 mm in diameter, is there something else I need to watch out before I buy new one?

 

[ramondo]

I would sub remote with cheap universal first to verify fault is with remote and not receiver,( try looking at remote with cell phone camera while pushing buttons) If you are sure remote is bad then try try subbing diode from any remote to see if remote will generate signals, If you are sure original diode is bad then you need an IR diode with same specs as orig, ANY diode will not work.

 

[starLED]

I would sub remote with cheap universal first to verify fault is with remote and not receiver,( try looking at remote with cell phone camera while pushing buttons) If you are sure remote is bad then try try subbing diode from any remote to see if remote will generate signals, If you are sure original diode is bad then you need an IR diode with same specs as orig, ANY diode will not work.

I know it's faulty IR LED diode, I already checked.
How to find out IR diode specs? there aren't any markings.

 

[ramondo]

Maybe the long way around, but complete brand and model of TV might reveal schematic which might have receiver specs leading to proper diode.

 

[starLED]

TV is Sony KDL-26EX302 and remote is RM-ED022

 

[starLED]

This is service manual

 

[starLED]

If I correctly read the manual, it has BH1600FVC sensor for IR https://docs.rs-online.com/b9d0/0900766b80df1f7a.pdf

 

[ramondo]

I beleive that is for sensing room lighting conditions, Might be wrong tho, often am.

 

[starLED]

There is one sensor for ambient/IR light.
I have found this part in manual that I think it's for IR.
PHOTO DIODE BH1690FVC-TR

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

It really doesn't matter much at all - ANY IR LED intended for remote control will work fine - for a number of years I used to stock ones that I ordered from RS Components. Then I mostly just took them out of old remotes, as we had a LARGE box of faulty ones we used to keep for spares.

 

[starLED]

Is this ok? https://www.avnet.com/shop/emea/products/kingbright/l-53f3c-3074457345629388733/

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

That should be fine, but you probably don't want 1000 of them?

 

[starLED]

No, I want 2.000, just in case.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

No, I want 2.000, just in case.

Break a lot do you?

Incidentally, as it's for a Sony remote, and I've repaired large numbers of Sony remotes (as I was a Sony dealer engineer) it's quite difficult to get them apart without damaging them (as they aren't made to be taken apart).

Now this might sound crazy?, but it was posted on a forum a long time ago - and as I had a LOT of faulty scrap Sony remotes, I thought I'd give it a go. Basically you just throw it at a wall - and it all pops apart without any damage. If you've only got one, perhaps you shouldn't experiment with it (just in case), but if you've got a load of scrap ones, you can find out the best kind of wall to throw it at, and how hard to throw it.

I did a test one repeatedly, probably 30 times in a row?, picked all the bits up, reassembled it, and threw it again. Eventually I was convinced that it worked, and that one remote was still completely undamaged despite it's abuse.

 

[starLED]

I actually managed to disassemble it quite easy, in couple of minutes.
I was quite surprised, because I know that remote can be quite difficult to disassemble without braking something.
Here is IR diode that I need to replace.

 

[Les Jones]

As you have only just disassembled it how could you be so sure it is the IR LED that was faulty in an earlier post and not the driver transistor or another component ?

Les.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

I actually managed to disassemble it quite easy, in couple of minutes.
I was quite surprised, because I know that remote can be quite difficult to disassemble without braking something.
Here is IR diode that I need to replace.
View attachment 126042

Did you manage to avoid any 'prise marks'?.

As Les said, how do you know that's what it needs as you hadn't taken it apart before? - it's only one of the components in the remote control. The LED's do fail occasionally, but it's fairly rare - and mostly they are broken off, having been dropped. Most common problem is probably the ceramic resonator, again the connections break, due to the control been dropped. Whenever I replaced the resonators I always placed a piece of double-sided tape underneath it, to prevent future breakage.

 

[starLED]

Did you manage to avoid any 'prise marks'?.

I made just one little scratch, only because I didn't use proper tool immediately. Rest is untouched.

As Les said, how do you know that's what it needs as you hadn't taken it apart before? - it's only one of the components in the remote control. The LED's do fail occasionally, but it's fairly rare - and mostly they are broken off, having been dropped. Most common problem is probably the ceramic resonator, again the connections break, due to the control been dropped. Whenever I replaced the resonators I always placed a piece of double-sided tape underneath it, to prevent future breakage.

I tested IR diode with multimeter, it doesn't flash, and there is resistance.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

I made just one little scratch, only because I didn't use proper tool immediately. Rest is untouched.


I tested IR diode with multimeter, it doesn't flash, and there is resistance.

It won't flash as it's IR, and like most things you can't test it in circuit - once out of circuit you 'may' be able to test it on the diode test range, if your meter provides enough voltage to do so.

It doesn't sound like it's faulty?.

 

[Les Jones]

If it has not already been mentioned a quick test is to point a digital camera at the remote and press one of the buttons. You should see the LED flashing as many digital cameras respond to IR. (Not all do as there could be an infra red filter between the lens and camera chip.)

Les.