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olly_k said:I have a Grundig CTV with (I hope) a dodgy TDA 3566P but I have been told the 'p' version is no longer available, with the only choice being a TDA3566 (not P). My supplier is unable to tell me whether this IC is compatible with the now obsolete version?
Anyone help me further?
olly_k said:Hi Nigel, the telly is a 4410, and the fault started as a slightly green picture, but is now rather muddy and indescribable, although the picture is sharp. I initially thought it may have been the tube itself, maybe an internal short - cathode to heater maybe? but seeing as I don't know how to check for this (tried a megger at 500 volts without any results) I let the cathodes float which resulted in a nice blank screen.
I then checked the drive voltages to the base board which resulted in the green drive which appears to be stuck high.
I figured the only things next were either the RGB ic or the capacitors used to store auto black-level? these seem fine so I am hoping it is the ic itself. Although the possiblity of a knackered tube is still bugging me!
Anyway, I will check CPC out thanks never even occured to me LOL!
PS Hadn't heard that Grundig went under, I don't think they were the worst tellies out there by any means!
I remeber trying this, but by this time the green had turned to a rather muddy colour which mean't it was too hard to tell.Try swapping two of the cathodes over, unsolder the actual pins of the CRT socket (obviously green and one of the others) and link them across to each other. If the CRT is still green it's the CRT, if it's the other colour it's the drive.
olly_k said:I remeber trying this, but by this time the green had turned to a rather muddy colour which mean't it was too hard to tell.Try swapping two of the cathodes over, unsolder the actual pins of the CRT socket (obviously green and one of the others) and link them across to each other. If the CRT is still green it's the CRT, if it's the other colour it's the drive.
I shall maybe try again later and double check :roll:
PS. I assume letting the cathodes float isn't a very good test for internal leakage then? I have also heard that some CRT's can be damaged this way. can you elaberate on this please Nigel?