how to work on pcbs that are thick

Could it be defective?
Do you have a thermocouple thermometer to measure the actual airflow temperature?
If not, does the airflow melt solder wire in its stream?

My power boards have very thick coper. Many layers. Most layers are 90% copper.
I sometime put a board in my wife's oven and heat the entire board. I now have a toaster oven I got used for $5.00. Heat everything up. If you only want to remove one part you can heat the entire board to below the milting point, then use the hot air gun to heat the one part you want off.

I would measure the heat of the board as you apply heat to it.

ronsimpson said:

My power boards have very thick coper. Many layers. Most layers are 90% copper.
I sometime put a board in my wife's oven and heat the entire board. I now have a toaster oven I got used for $5.00. Heat everything up. If you only want to remove one part you can heat the entire board to below the milting point, then use the hot air gun to heat the one part you want off.
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How long do you preheat the board for ?1 min?
Or does it depend on the oven ?
I am really scared I'll kill the apu.

Hey Amateur 24,I have asked you a question that you didn’t bother to answer.
Taking a temperature measurement would take you less than a minute.
Now, if you don’t have a thermometer to measure it, please say so.

amateur_24 said:

How long do you preheat the board for ?1 min?

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I am soldering the entire board. There are many YouTube videos on "reflow pc board solder using toaster oven". Watch the videos.
Here is a graph for soldering a board. It takes about 5 to 8 minutes.

Another picture. My oven naturally gives me a curve like my green arrow. They want the board to be at 150C for a while then up to the milting point for about 1 minute. Then I open up the door and let it cool off.

If you are only going to take one part off with a hot air gun, then heat the entire board up to 150C for 3-4 minutes maybe more if the board is thick, open up the door and heat that one part.

I have used two hot air guns. One bottom side heating a large area to 150 and one on top heating a small area to 250. (the air is hotter than 150)

I started using temperature probes but I found watching the solder milt tells me when we hit 220. That is all I care about.

But at the same time I refuse to be mocked by smd soldering. I am desperately wanting to learn and soldering.

schmitt trigger said:

Hey Amateur 24,I have asked you a question that you didn’t bother to answer.
Taking a temperature measurement would take you less than a minute.
Now, if you don’t have a thermometer to measure it, please say so.

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Sorry I was waiting for my meter with a thermocouple to arrive. Am at the hospital with my dad I will measure the temp later. Maybe my soldering station is lying to me.

Thanks for your reply, hope your dad will speedily recover.

Back in topic; it would not be uncommon that even a brand new device is not functioning correctly.
The thermocouple will be a valuable addition not only for this issue, but for many more things in the future.

I measured the temperature of the heat gun. The highest temp I measured was over 300 but miles off the 480 it said it was oñ the display.

So is this problem fixable or do I need a new hot air station?

I downloaded the manual. On page 21, on the subject HOT AIR GUN ACTUAL TEMPERATURE IS NOT INCREASING; it mentions that the heating element could be broken and requires replacement.

I would suggest to do this first, replace it.

I am interested in your outcome as I was considering an AYOUE rework station.