How do I allow 12v but restrict 9v in a single wire?

[MikeMl]

I have been away.

...
Questions:
So, basically the board is turning PWM into 12 volts, which activates a 12v relay to bring on the high beam? Paul

Yes, the circuit I posted in #19, above, operates the relay when the PWM percentage is more than 85%. Let's see if we can agree how to wire the relay's contacts.

You mention Rly85, is that shown as Rly86 in the diagram, or is that something else?

As I said: "Rly86 is an output (from the module) that goes to pin 86 of a standard 12V automotive relay". The pointed box symbol with the Rly86 is just a way of showing it as a pin on the module.

I see how the diagram brings in the high beams from Rly86 by closing contact 30 & 87, but what brings on the low beams to act as the DRLs? How is the low beam headlights connected to this circuit? I will need the low beams on instead of the DRLs for day time running, and use of the high beam when needed.

You already have a pin D4 in the TIPM C4 connector (blue wire on your original schematic) which powers the Low Beams in the OEM wiring. Can you use this to power the low beams at night? Does this go off automatically when you select high beams? Is this on or off during daytime running?

The H13 FEMALE connector has three wires one for low beam, one for DRL/High Beam and a ground, ....

I'm guessing that you are trying to describe the input pins to the power supply for the HIDs? There is something wrong with this statement. How can the HighBeam input be used for DRL? Aren't the High Beams too bright to be used as DRLs, therefore shouldn't the pin you call low beam be called low beam/DRL?

The vector board: is there a certain type or size? I'm thinking a board you put the pins through and solder the other side to hold the part in and then attach a wire to the other parts, then cut the board to fit a plastic box?

Like this

Once the board is done I'm thinking to put the board in a sealed plastic box and run the H13 and HID connectors from the box, have you any recommendations as to what box I should use?

Like this

Do I have to be concerned about heat in the plastic box? Do I need heat sinks

No

What is the gauge of the wiring to SW12v?

Depends on how much current your lights take. I'm guessing at least #14 stranded.

What is the gauge of the wiring used to connect the parts on the circuit board?

#20 to #26

Do I just mount the relay to the board and solder the wires to the pins, or put the pins through the board and solder wires from underneath the board?

The one I spec'ed can be mounted directly to sheet metal with a screw ( do not put it in the enclosure).

Should there be a fuse on the board?

No

Is there any way that this circuit can affect the cars computer system? If it shorted out, voltage feedback etc.

No

I have some questions. It seems like you have four different modes:

1. Everything off.

2. Daytime running mode: Car is running, Headlight switch in the off position. TIPM C5 pin 1 puts out low duty cycle PWM. Our new relay is not pulled in. Only the low beams should be on and will serve as the DRLs.

3. Night-time Low beam mode: Headlight switch is on, Hi-Lo lever is in low beam position. What does TIPM C5 pin 1 put out? Only the Low Beams should be on?

4. Night-time High beam mode: Headlight switch is on, Hi-Lo lever is in High beam position. TIPM C5 pin 1 puts out high duty cycle PWM. Our new relay is pulled in. Only the High beams should be on?

 

[paulmackie]

Hi Mike,
Thanks for staying with me on this.
I got this reply from the parts manufacturer:
"We have had no need to change the wiring of our harness as this would be one of the first issues I've heard of with it amongst hundreds of users. This video may help you set the harness up properly:

.
It was created by a reseller who uses our products with newer Mopar vehicles.
Thanks again Paul. Please let us know if something stands out!

OK, so they are basically saying it should work as is. A mechanic installer put the harness in and wired it. He said he wired it so it would work, which it does, but with DRL high beam. I will make a wiring diagram from the video and see if that is what I have on Saturday when I look at the car.

Q&A:

The High beam is solenoid activated on the HID projector, so a single HID bulb is lit on low beam and then when a voltage is applied to the high beam wire the solenoid pulls down a metal piece, which exposes more of the projector light (high beam). Not sure if the old bulbs were double filaments?

You already have a pin D4 in the TIPM C4 connector (blue wire on your original schematic) which powers the Low Beams in the OEM wiring. Can you use this to power the low beams at night? Does this go off automatically when you select high beams? Is this on or off during daytime running?

In the old light setup TIPM C4 is the low beams and comes on when it is switched at any time. Not sure how that worked for the old lighting (maybe double filament or extra voltage to one filament?) but when the low beam headlight is switched on, the DRL/High beam circuit has no voltage; unless you switch on high beams. The DRLs are on during daytime running with a dimmer light in the old lighting bulb; with the new HID lighting the high beam is on because the DRL circuit (high beam) comes on automatically when the car is put in drive, which now puts the PWM voltage onto the HID projectors solenoid and activates the coil.
Everything works fine if I just turn on my low beam headlights, before I put the car in gear and drive off; if I drive off without turning on the low beams I get full HID light, which even in the daylight is blinding for other drivers.

Question answers:
1. YES
2 YES
3 YES TIPM C5 pin has no output when the low beams are on.
4 NO the low beam is still on, and the high beam voltage activates the HID projector solenoid, exposing more of the low beam light in the projector.

Thank you sooo much for your help with this.
I will be buying the parts this weekend, if our local electronic stores have them? I will check the harness and see if I can trace the wiring that is in the video. The installer did say he had to change the pin orientation to make the system work; so, either that is the problem, or the harness is for non DRL cars?

Schematic from video (from what I can see). Not sure what is going on inside the Controller box? Also not sure what the pin orientation from the bulb connector high low beam projector connector is too the projector solenoid.
Will look at this harness wiring on saturday; as the parts supplier says it should work?

So, if everything is wired correctly with the harness, then I need the new circuit to limit the DRL voltage, but allow the full 12 voltage for high beam when required and switch on the low beam headlights instead of the DRLs.
Thanks again

Paul

 

[gary350]

ONE of the voltages needs to be AC the other voltage needs to be DC. Now one of them will be easy to block.

 

[paulmackie]

It looks like the original bulbs have two filaments a high and low beam.

So, originally the high and low beams were separate circuits; with HIDs the high beam is the HID projector solenoid and the low beam headlight is the HID bulb.

 

[paulmackie]

Would this work?

 

[MikeMl]

I modified the earlier schematic. Nothing inside the "module" has changed; only the relay wiring and I added some annotations.



Poke around the fuse panel with a voltmeter, and you will likely find an unused circuit/fuse. The fuse might not be installed, so install a fuse big enough to carry the two HID projectors plus about 50%. Try to find one that is live with the key in the "run" position; it will likely not be live while the key is turned to the "start" position.

If you bought the relay I linked to, the snubber diode is built-in, so don't add an external one. No other diodes are needed in the HID wiring.

 

[MikeMl]

While re-reading this thread, I noticed something on the partial vehicle schematic you posted way back in post #1. Notice the internal wire in the right hand part of the diagram that is labelled E4, L33, LT Hi BEAM FD. It comes out of the controller as pin 5(? fuzzy) on TIPM C5. It was not connected to anything in your vehicle, but it might be a signal line that has 12V on it when you switch on the HiBeams. If that is the case, you could dispense with all of the external stuff (Module and Relay), and wire this signal directly to the HiBeam input to your HID projectors. The power for the HID power supply would still need to come from the fuse panel from a circuit that is live only with the key in the run position as before.