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How can I operate a bose soundlink without the battery

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spdy

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I want to run a bose soundlink 1 without the battery. The battery is on its last legs. Is there a circuit diagram of this available anywhere?
I tried to power it with a built up Ni Mh battery of 7.2 volts its li battery is 7.4 volts, but it does not work. I thought I would work it with a computer atx 12 volt (10amp) supply, instead of the
original charger, it works but only with the battery.
Incidentally the battery has a five prong connector and these suppy about 8, 5, 3 volts or so.
The replacement battery seems to cost more than a new soundlink!
 
A 2-cells Lithium battery is 8.4V when fully charged and averages 7.4V when half discharged. Maybe the Soundlink does not work without the 5V and 3V.
Bose are glad to take your money for their replacement overpriced battery.
 
The soundlink 1 battery appears to be three cells - it's listed as 11.1V - 12.4V
Example: **broken link removed**

That is probably why you are not having any luck with the 7.2V supply.

It could also explain the 5V and 3V connections you have found, they will likely be the tappings between the cells that are used to maintain equalisation when charging.
(It is absolutely vital that series-connected lithium cells are held at exactly equal voltage while being charged, which is what the "equalisation" connections and circuitry are for).
The 5th connection is possibly a thermistor in the pack to monitor the temperature.


Edit - do you mean a Soundlink Mini 1 - they appear to use a two-cell battery?
 
Thanks audioguru and rjenkinsgb for your messages. The battery says 7.4 volts and the replacement batteries also say 7.4 volts.
Edit is right, I think it is a two cell battery.
I have made a slight mistake when I said "Incidentally the battery has a five prong connector and these supply about 8, 5, 3 volts or so"
This is the voltage I read when the charger is connected and the battery is taken out. I have so far no way of reading the voltage
with the battery in place.
Here is a link to Amazon's replacement battery
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-061384-SoundLink-Bluetooth-Speaker-x/dp/B07BQLM3QZ
The charger is rated 12 volts 2 amperes.
I thought the soundlink requires a higher ampereage (probably provided by the battery) so I tried to run this with a computer atx power supply which can supply 12 volts at 10 amperes,
but this did not help.
The battery is a power supply source, which I would like replace with another power supply source.
 
It's not a simple PSU, it's a Li-Ion battery, charger, balancer assembly - so you probably can't just stick the correct voltage on the unit, it may well need other voltages and signals to ensure that everything is OK.

I don't imagine you've got a schematic for the unit?, BOSE are particularly useless at providing such things.

Have you considered simply replacing the Li-Ion cells in the battery pack? - it's probably just two 18650 cells (almost everything uses them) - can you disassemble the pack to get to the cells?.
 
It is a Soundlink Mini, then - a different battery & supply voltage to the non-Mini version.

Try a reset while you have power connected: Hold the "mute" button for at least ten seconds.

It's possible the battery connector has two pins linked, either directly or via a diode?
I don't see a reason for any more than four connections with a two cell battery - each end, centre tap and temperature sensor. Or the sensor may have both leads brought out separately?
 
Why are you gambling that the Cheap Chinese no-name-brand (Batterymon is a battery monitoring software) battery is any good at such a high cost? A review of batteries says that some no-name-brand batteries are horrible, but others are pretty good..
 
I have just opened another bose soundlink, which is showing only a red light and I replaced the battery which works on the other one, but this still shows a red light.
So far I can see this has a battery regulator ic bq24172 and another ic 564( unable locate any data on this), three mosfets k7k, on the charger input board.
The ic 564 has 6 pins (three on each side) would appreciate if anybody can help me identify it to get a datasheet.
 
Have you tried the reset button sequence? Just showing the red light appears to be a rather common problem with those, from what I can see...
 
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