Homemade Wind Generator Advice

[cowboybob]

I've played with wind power a good bit over the years.

Never thought of a treadmill motor, though. Excellent concept.

My best success with the "wind" side of things was with a Savonius rotor (vertical axis wind turbine) type of propulsion:
**broken link removed** Top view:

There are many variations in design. The example image might lead you to believe it's for low power applications, but trust me, it can produce remarkable levels of juice.

The first (and biggest) advantage is that it is omni-directional, i.e. , it'll capture energy regardless of the winds' direction. It eliminates the need for a rotating support base and, thus, greatly simplifies wiring. Plus, it develops enormous torque (relatively speaking with regards to a "propeller" type) at very low RPM. They are often used to pump water, which is a very high torque application.

But it is a simple design and not that hard to construct. I've made low power units from two halves of a beer can . And they can be stacked.

Of course, as with any variable speed generator, you'd do well to have some manner of power control circuitry to maintain appropriate voltage/current levels (as you would with whatever wind driven system you built).

 

[MaxHeadRoom78]

I have an alternator from a car but I am having trouble with measuring the voltage output and getting my head around how it should be set up. Could someone show a diagram or explain what wires go where to use this alternater as a charging appliance.
Cheers

A treadmill motor will generate a maximum voltage almost equal to the rated plate voltage when rotated at the plate rpm, IOW a 90vdc motor rated at 3krpm will generate 90vdc when rotated at 3krpm..
If you have a constant source of 12vdc you wish to charge then an alternator can be connected up just the way it is in an automobile, failing that if no 12v is present initially you will have to intercept the feed to the rotor slip rings and temporarily switch them to the alternator DC output terminal in order for residual to pull the rotor excitation up, this can be done with a LM311 comparitor and a small relay to switch between the two conditions.
Max.

 

[spec]

Some info:

Dynohub
**broken link removed**
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/dynohubs.html
http://www.reuk.co.uk/Sturmey-Archer-Dynohub.htm
http://classicthreespeeds.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/1953-gh6-dynohub-rebuild.html
http://lawschoolissoover.wordpress.com/2014/08/04/the-shocking-truth-part-4-dynohubs/

Bottle Dynamo
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottle_dynamo
http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=bottle+dynamo&client=firefox-b-ab&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjNj7WsiJHNAhUMIsAKHRyjDY8QsAQIbw&biw=1467&bih=675
http://www.atob.org.uk/bicycle-acce...os-bush-muller-dymotec-s12-dynosys-lightspin/

 

[shortbus=]

If your really serious about this wind power thing your going about it wrong, like most people seem to do. Your first objective should be to measure the prevailing wind speed average at the site you'll be using, and the height you will be mounting the generator. Then use that to decide on the type and size of generator. Spending money and time to make a generator system that takes "X" amount of watts of energy then setting it up to find the wind itself is only capable of making "Y" amount of power is very frustrating.

This is one of the many sites with information on this - https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wind-power-d_1214.html
A Google search will get many more.

 

[tcmtech]

Batteries are specified by chemistry: lead acid, nickel cadmium (NiCad), Nickel Metal Hydride (NMH), Lithium Ion (LiIon). Then their voltage: Lead Acid= 1.2V (10 cells in series in a car battery=12V), NiCad= 1.2V, NMH=1.2V, LiIon=3.6V.

Uh what?

 

[spec]

Uh what?

Woops :

 

[schmitt trigger]

This clearly requires an external field regulator (white/red and white/black wires).

The + output is the large red wire and the - output is the case