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Help onStar Wars Prop Project how to use 12 and 24 illuminated switches with 3 PP3 9v batteries without the batteries burning up

Spikeysonic

New Member
Im trying to make a Star Wars Prop for a course project where the dealine is comming up very fast in days and I need to do the report so really urgent

On the prop whihc is a portable control box Dual control box (Left side control panel, a tower in the middle and a right side control panel

On the the left sider there is a bank of 6 mix ed 12 v and 24 illuminted latching buttons plus 2 illuminatred switches with safety covers


On the right control box there is a set of 6 mixed 24 or 12v non latching illuminated switches,

one on its own, 24 v and a switch or two I think that lights up also 24.v

On control

See photos.
The effect Im tryign to get on the left side is like someone launching a helicopter where they press the buttons in quick succession snd they light up and stay lit, likewise the light up switches,

So think the buttins are like engine on fuel pump in life support on etc and the switches are like arm weapon

However the buttons and switches only need to turn on their internal lights. Its just for effect the buttons and switches dont operate anything.

The way this is wired is on each button:

2 pairs

Pair 1 - The Common Prong -----------is connected to the LED Positive Prong----- and the Positive battery pack termial
Pair 2 - The Normally Open NC Prong-- is connected the POSITIVE LED Prong------ on the button and thats connected to ground
on battery pack

The power supply is 9 PP3 Batteries in series

Whilst I dont need these circuits to do anythgin other than the latched and unlatched illuminated buttons and illuminated switches light themselves up when pressed (Staying on or not depending is latches or not)

Note in the photos attached I have not fully wired it up Ive just done pairs of wires on the buttons, they mave not been connected in parallel yet or to power and not done anything with the illuminated swtichesyes
I was following this video but presume their set up was intended to switch an in car gadget on and off thus a load and resistance>

Im just trying to fake special effects to look like somone is activiting things of a prop parir of control palentls where the buttoms light up to look cool



from 10 mins on and begging vid showing connections


-
The problem is the batteries heating up and 2 have smoked and had holes blow out of them

I m guessing this is some sort of short circuit issue. Maybe I need some resistor

So thats Panel 2

6 Illuminated buttons that latch in Parrellel
the 12 volts latchign buttons would be like this

Green Square Latching 16mm Push Button Switch NO/NC 12V

Green latching push button switch featuring a square illuminated actuator and IP65 protection rating. The switch features NO and NC contacts and fits standard 16mm panel cut-outs. The switch is suitable for a wide range of applications including industrial, prototyping, automotive etc. Green 12V...

https://cpc.farnell.com/rjs-electronics/rjs-k16-381-re-65j/illum-push-button-16mm-ltch-sq/dp/SW05393Please advise on what I need to do to get this done and safe Ligthing a load of buttons whtouy over heatign or buttons blowign a hole soiut of them
 

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I'm having difficulty following the wiring in the photos.

The connection on each switch should be:
Battery positive to one switch contact (eg. Common)

Other switch contact (eg. Normally Open) linked to LED positive

LED negative to battery negative.

One or two 9V batteries should probably be enough; the LED illuminated switches of similar styles I've used are not at all critical on voltage.


If you want the switches to only work in sequence, feed the common of the next switch from the normally open contact of the previous one.
 
For a 9 volt battery to blow a hole in the side, there must be maintained dead short someplace.

The LEDs may need series resistors. Some switches include them, so don't.
 
Those switches aren't all wired the same, but this seems to be the type you have. V+ goes to the COM terminal. The NO (Normally Open) terminal goes to the LED + terminal. The LED – terminal goes to battery –. No other connections should be made.

SmartSelect_20240106_233901_Edge.jpg
 
I'm having difficulty following the wiring in the photos.

The connection on each switch should be:
Battery positive to one switch contact (eg. Common)

Other switch contact (eg. Normally Open) linked to LED positive

LED negative to battery negative.

One or two 9V batteries should probably be enough; the LED illuminated switches of similar styles I've used are not at all critical on voltage.


If you want the switches to only work in sequence, feed the common of the next switch from the normally open contact
Will this do for a wiring schematic. I found that I dont need 24 v to work one LED switch, a single pp3 pattery will do it but no idea on the resistor needed, both what ohms ansd should it be one resitor for all switches on the ground or power line or should or be one per button or switch? See the attachments. Note that normally these buttons would operate somethgin like a light or gadget etc. ive bypassed this stright to ground as only need the buttons to light up
 

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Reinterating, this type of switch usually has the resistor built in. If the switch is sold as a "12 volt switch" or a "24 volt switch", this should be the case.

All of the switches will be connected in parallel across the battery – try a single 9 volt battery.

Battery + to switch COM

Switch NO to LED+

LED – to battery –

No other connections should be made.


SmartSelect_20240106_233901_Edge.jpg

Notes_240107_023943.jpg


Excuse the crude drawing. It's the best you get at 2:50AM.
 
This is what im trying to do the top right fram will hold a phone with a interface animation.

the sliders are not connected
 

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Reinterating, this type of switch usually has the resistor built in. If the switch is sold as a "12 volt switch" or a "24 volt switch", this should be the case.

All of the switches will be connected in parallel across the battery – try a single 9 volt battery.

Battery + to switch COM

Switch NO to LED+

LED – to battery –

No other connections should be made.


View attachment 144023
View attachment 144024

Excuse the crude drawing. It's the best you get at 2:50AM.
LOL dont worry on the drawing im doing the same. If the switches had a resistor in them why the batteries blow? was it becuase i tried to connect 3 together? Do I just need to add a resitor to the whole circuit or one per switch/button if so which
229 iom or 220 k was mentioned somewhere
 
Reinterating, this type of switch usually has the resistor built in. If the switch is sold as a "12 volt switch" or a "24 volt switch", this should be the case.

All of the switches will be connected in parallel across the battery – try a single 9 volt battery.

Battery + to switch COM

Switch NO to LED+

LED – to battery –

No other connections should be made.


View attachment 144023
View attachment 144024

Excuse the crude drawing. It's the best you get at 2:50AM.
 

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In the drawing in post 11, you're connecting battery – to battery + when the switch is on. Bad things happen

Let's try this again. The picture is different, but the words are the same.


All of the switches will be connected in parallel across the battery – try a single 9 volt battery.

Battery + to switch COM

Switch NO to LED+

LED – to battery –

No other connections should be made.

Light up switch diagram.jpeg
 
Prototoypig with one pp3 battery got one switch lightign up so guess that will work for all. WOuld 2 batteries in parllel mean logner lastign batteries? BUt need to sort the resitor issue
 
I think I've said this already – to have a battery blow up, you have a direct short from + to –. Some of your pictures look like this is the case.

I believe your switches have resistors built in. If you blew holes in the battery, but all of the LEDs still work, resistors aren't the problem.



Wite the switches like this, and they will work.
All of the switches will be connected in parallel across the battery – try a single 9 volt battery.

Battery + to switch COM

Switch NO to LED+

LED – to battery –

No other connections should be made.
 
Thanks not sure what if the switches did have resistors but ecperiments shows one swithc works with a 2 k resistor that does not get hot, 500ohms did so hve been attaching 2 k resisotrs to each swithc and been solderign it all together. not fully tested it yet
 
If that works, go for it.

Connect the resistor between switch NO and LED + instead of a jumper. Make no other changes or connections than shown.
 
Last edited:
Draw a picture. I'm tired of guessing
 

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