Help me identify electronic component

[Nate Persson]

Wow, that sure is one crisp Tantalum. Are you sure of its value? There were at least two different values of Tantalums in your photos.

The only way I had to identify it was to measure the blown capacitor, which was the same size as the bottom 3 caps in my original picture. I ordered online, should arrive in about a week. But will have to wait to fix one more week until I get back from a trip to Mexico. I'll report in on the result.

 

[DerStrom8]

The only way I had to identify it was to measure the blown capacitor, which was the same size as the bottom 3 caps in my original picture. I ordered online, should arrive in about a week. But will have to wait to fix one more week until I get back from a trip to Mexico. I'll report in on the result.

The 3 capacitors shown in your original picture had different values. The one labeled "336" (C109) is likely a 33uF capacitor, and the ones labeled "107" (C110, C112, and the one below C112) is likely a 100uF capacitor. They will measure the same dimensions because they are the same package size, but that does not mean they're the same values. We do not know what value C115 (the burnt capacitor) is supposed to be.

What is the part number shown on U23? That might give us some hints as to what value C115 needs to be.

 

[jpanhalt]

Nate Persson
From the image of the fried component, it is hard to tell its original color. Since it is obviously ruined, mark on the PCB its orientation band (assuming you can see it), and remove the component. Flames rise, and the bottom may show some color that would help ID it.

Also, component markings are often etched or leave an etched effect on the burnt remains. Before removal, try reading it in a different light (oblique often helps). I find a little saliva will sometimes make such markings more apparent.

 

[Nate Persson]

As you see from the picture, there is no part number on U23, just some wierd X scratched into it. And on C115 (the blown cap), I used saliva, but couldn't raise any markings, not even the orientation. But I assume the "+" on the board denotes the positive end of the cap. I will take your advice and remove the cap to see if the underside has preserved the color.

 

[DerStrom8]

Argh, I hate when they remove the markings! Makes troubleshooting next to impossible!

 

[hyedenny]

U23 looks pretty toasted to me...
Judging from the number of thermal vias, perhaps the circuit may have simply been overloaded.
In any case, I seriously doubt replacing just the tantalum capacitor -- especially with a guessed value -- will fix this box. I hope I'm wrong!

It also looks like this PCB may have gotten wet at some point. Could that be?

 

[dr pepper]

U23 looks mechanically damaged rather than blown up, I dont see anything to make me assume its blown, if it is however you'd probably not be able to replace it, if the manufacts went to the trouble of preventing you from knowing what it is then I doubt they'd just tell you over the 'phone.
The vias at the edge of the board look a little corroded, has the board got wet, or very hot?, might have caused the issues.
Also looks kinda like whatever put the 'x' into the chip has also scored the dead cap.
Did you find anything rattling around in the box, maybe there was a heatsink glued to U23.

 

[gary350]

I would remove the bad part then take it apart to see what it is. Once you know what it is remove a good part test it with your meter to find the value then buy a replacement. I use to run into this problem repairing circuit boards. Numbers on those parts are often the assembly factory identification number not the manufacture part number.